The squat, two-story building on the southern end of Penngrove’s tiny Main Street has worn many hats over its 125-year history – hotel, dive bar, Prohibition speakeasy, lesbian-owned bohemian music venue and biker bar. But one theme has remained constant: booze.
In late August, the space at 10056 Main St. reopened as The Grove, offering an elevated yet approachable menu served in a chandelier-lit dining room with a vintage flair. It’s still very much a bar – just with fewer sticky tables, a working bathroom door (RIP, Black Cat) and without the bras stapled to the ceiling or rough-and-tumble regulars once bellied up to the counter.
Restaurateur and investor Jeff Inglin of Petaluma’s Beyond the Glory sports bar owns the new venture, but it’s his 25-year-old son Mike and Mike’s fiancée, Ava Chabot, who have made the project their own. The couple manages the day-to-day operations and frequently pitches in as kitchen help, bar staff or servers – very much a family affair.
They’re also responsible for The Grove’s breezy, 1920s speakeasy aesthetic. Think velvet barstools, restored wood floors, flapper-era posters, embossed tin ceiling tiles and a dramatic crystal chandelier. The ancient oak bar remains the heart of the dining room, though its most colorful tales are probably best left steeped in its gin-and-tonic-soaked grain.
The food
Chef Gus Vega, 35, creates a surprisingly ambitious menu from a kitchen barely the size of a walk-in closet. Every square inch serves a purpose, and during busy hours, the close quarters create an intimate, high-energy environment for the small culinary team.
“You get to know each other’s every move,” Vega said. His resume includes stints at Petaluma’s Central Market, Seared and Cafe Zazzle, as well as Salt and Stone in Kenwood and The Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen. Now, he’s diving headfirst into dishes like seared sole Dore with a lemon caper beurre blanc ($34), a cassoulet-like duck cazuela ($34) and steak frites with black garlic butter ($32).
While a few expediting hiccups occurred during our visits, most dishes were well-executed and thoughtfully composed.
Vega’s passion for Southern cuisine shows in staples like shrimp and grits ($16) on the dinner menu, along with a fried oyster po’boy ($22), biscuits and gravy ($20) and chicken and waffles ($22) for weekend brunch.
With minimal storage, ingredients are ordered and delivered in small quantities, usually enough for just two days, so the menu changes frequently based on availability. That’s just the way Vega likes it.
“Food is my life,” he said. “I love to see happy people eating my food.”
But not everyone was thrilled with the changes when The Grove first opened.
“Some locals talked about boycotting us,” said Chabot, referencing the building’s previous incarnation as Mack’s, a biker- and sports-friendly dive. Still, she said, old regulars occasionally stop by, and usually leave smiling.
“If you want to be part of this, there’s always a seat here for you,” Vega added.
Best bets
The menu changes frequently and shifts seasonally. Several dishes from early fall, like fried green tomatoes, chicken succotash and pibil sliders, are no longer available. Recent additions include duck poutine ($22) with shoestring fries and cheddar curds, fritto misto ($25), Brussels sprouts with lemon and Parmesan ($18), and brown butter chicken thighs with parsnip purée, squash, feta and kale.
Shrimp and Grits ($16): Appetizer-sized but packed with flavor. The potlikker sauce (brothy sauce from simmered greens), blackened shrimp and creamy cheddar grits are legit.
The Grove Mac ($16): A creamy Mornay sauce with cheddar, goat cheese, mozzarella and Parmesan is excellent, with bits of bacon and crisp breadcrumbs. Add lobster ($12) for the full effect.
Seared Sole Dore ($34): Whether it’s halibut or sole, the dish delivers with a bright lemon butter sauce, mashed potatoes and garlic spinach. Classic, simple comfort food.
Oyster Po’Boy ($22, brunch only): The breaded and fried Drake’s Bay oysters are crisp and juicy, though the sandwich could benefit from less bread and a lighter hand on the toppings (lettuce, tomatoes and pickles). These oysters shine in the fritto misto, with less bread and more fried seafood.
Grove Benedict ($26, brunch only): Two giant lobster claws top a lemony hollandaise, perfectly poached farm-fresh eggs, spinach and a fluffy English muffin.
Chicken and Waffles ($22, brunch only): The buttermilk fried chicken thighs are tender and juicy, while the sweet potato waffle and hot honey add contrast to the salty chicken.
Biscuits and Gravy ($20, brunch only): Vega makes a Southern-girl-approved biscuit, according to my very picky, very Southern friend, Taylor. High praise.
House Cocktails ($15-$16): Creative cocktails like the Black Wall Street with Basil Hayden Bourbon, vermouth, black walnut liqueur and orange bitters ($16) and the Flapper’s Delight, with vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, cucumber and basil ($15), are fun and flirty. But the quality can vary depending on the night and the bartender’s workload. A little practice (and some batching) could help.
Happy Hour: Great small bites and cocktail deals from 3-6 p.m. Monday through Friday.
The Pour House: The restaurant opens for coffee, espresso drinks and housemade pastries at 7 a.m. Monday through Friday and 8 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. Reservations recommended.
The Grove Speakeasy, 10056 Main St., Penngrove, 707-664-5916, thegrovespeakeasy.com