An ornate silver samovar and delicate teacups sit on the counter at Viva Mēxicana, owner Sima Mohamadian’s cozy Sebastopol restaurant — a gleaming emblem of the Persian warmth she brings to the space.
It’s a delightful plot twist for a taqueria counter: polished silver amid tortilla chips and salsa, hinting there’s more here than meets the tortilla. It also tells a deeper story — the kindness and care Mohamadian pours into every dish, from vegan burritos to Fesenjān, the rich walnut-and-pomegranate stew served over saffron basmati rice.
Most days, the Iranian-born restaurateur is firmly in taqueria mode, turning out carne asada tacos, chile rellenos and quesadillas alongside a wide range of gluten-free and plant-based options. The menu rarely strays from the tried-and-true blueprint of hearty Mexican classics — simple, satisfying and beloved.
But on Monday and Tuesday evenings, the dining room shifts. Mohamadian transforms Viva Mēxicana into a pop-up Persian café, drawing deeply from her roots — and from her mother’s recipe box. The fragrance of saffron, cardamom, cinnamon and turmeric drifts through the room as traditional dishes take center stage, offering guests a taste of the cuisine that shaped her life long before she began rolling burritos in Sonoma County.
The journey
With dark curls and a warm smile, Mohamadian is a steady presence at Viva Mexicana. On a cool October morning, she is already handing out breakfast burritos when I arrive.
“I have something special for us,” she says, filling two mugs with hot water from the samovar. We head to the chilly patio, where she’s draped a blanket over a small table. In Iran, she explains, hot coals would warm us from below; here, a space heater hums. We tuck the blanket over our laps, and warmth rises immediately.
Sipping herbal tea and nibbling quince jam, she shares her journey from Iran to America during the revolution, her mother’s belief in food as medicine, the healthfulness of Persian cuisine and the support she gives and receives from the Sebastopol community.
It’s a wide-ranging conversation, but with toasty toes and steaming tea, it feels like chatting with an old friend.
Food is light
“Persian people are very hospitable. Gathering and cooking together is innate,” Mohamadian says. “And we don’t cook for a few people — we cook for the whole community.”
That belief in food as a source of energy, love and light has increasingly drawn her back toward Persian cooking. At first, it was simply sharing the dishes she craved and made at home — a spoonful of quince jam from her garden, nourishing ash sabzi or tahdig gheimeh, a split yellow-pea and lamb stew over crispy rice. The response led to occasional Persian theme nights.
Buoyed by their popularity — and a series of well-attended cooking classes — Mohamadian now offers a dedicated Persian menu on Monday and Tuesday nights. Alongside her two longtime Mexican cooks, she has added a new chef who is learning her family recipes.
These recipes, she explains, aren’t merely ingredient lists; they are medicine. Iranian cooking rests on the balance of garmi (warm) and sardi (cool) foods, a philosophy similar to Ayurveda. Fesenjān, the walnut-and-pomegranate stew on her menu, blends warm, grounded lamb and walnuts with the bright, cooling tang of pomegranate molasses and dried limes — a dish meant to nourish and restore.
“Whether it’s Mexican or Persian, you have to make food with love,” she says. “People taste it. Cooking with intention is the only way I know how to heal.”
The food
One of the first things to understand is that the menu — while extensive — has its own rhythm. If you’re new to Persian cuisine, you could navigate it on your own, but you’d miss the intentional balance of warm and cool dishes that makes the meal truly shine. A little guidance goes a long way.
Dishes to pair: Noon o Panir ba Sabzi ($11) is a bowl of fresh herbs, radishes, feta and walnuts with bread. The herbs are meant to be eaten with entrées to aid digestion. Salad Shirazi ($8), made with cucumber, tomato, onion, fresh mint, and lemon juice, is considered a condiment, as is Mast-o Khiar ($8), a creamy yogurt dish with cucumber, dill, mint, raisins and walnuts. While each stands on its own, they add depth to heartier stews and meats.
Appetizers: Zeytoon Parvardeh ($9) are large green olives marinated in sweet pomegranate molasses, garlic and walnuts — a power punch of flavor. Kashke Bademjan ($10), a roasted eggplant dip with caramelized onion, garlic, herbs and creamy kashk (whey), is addictive. Do not leave unattended; it will magically disappear into your dining partner’s stomach.
Koresh karafs sampler ($13): Considered the national dish of Iran, this braised celery stew with parsley, mint and tender beef is a perfect place to start.
Fesenjān taster ($15): Walnut-and-pomegranate stewed chicken over saffron basmati rice — both sweet and tart, a warming winter favorite.
Khoresh e Beh sampler ($15): A comforting mix of sweet and savory, with quince, lamb and plum simmered in saffron and warm spices.
Mini Khoresht-e Gheymeh Bowl ($15): Tender beef and split peas in a saffron-tomato sauce, topped with golden shoestring potatoes and served over fragrant basmati rice.
Desserts: Persian ice cream ($9) with rosewater and saffron offers a floral twist on the usual sundae. Also try the organic quince tea with jujubes and Persian halva ($12).
Drinks: Persian-inspired cocktails and alcohol-free options abound. The Sharbat Albaloo ($12), a sour-cherry margarita, and saffron lemonade ($9) are both worth ordering.
Dishes are available à la carte or as part of a three-course fixed-price menu. The tasting menu ($70) features four appetizer “tastes,” an entrée and dessert, accompanied by tea.
Reservations are required from 5 to 8 p.m.; walk-ins are welcome from 3 to 5 p.m. Make reservations at vivamexicana.com/page/persian-night.
Viva Mēxicana, 841 Gravenstein Highway South, Sebastopol. 707-823-5555, vivamexicana.com