California’s obsession with the breakfast burrito is well-known, but East Coast transplant Josh Smookler of Golden Bear Station in Kenwood found himself craving something more familiar. And so, his version of the BECSPK — bacon, egg and cheese on a kaiser roll (or bagel), with salt, pepper and ketchup — was born.
The griddled, foil-wrapped sandwich is a staple at most New York City neighborhood bodegas, a warm, grab-and-go sandwich beloved by the subway crowd. Think of it as an edible handwarmer.
After months of trial and error, Smookler and his wife, Heidy He, now serve their take on the classic each Wednesday through Sunday morning at their new outdoor breakfast pergola. Don’t expect to stick around, though — there are no tables or seats, and everything is served to-go.
Three weeks in, fans are already lining up for their BECSPK fix, alongside its breakfast roll sibling, the New Jersey Pork Roll, as they head to work or take in the growing crowd of people waiting for their orders.
The Garden State version swaps bacon for the uniquely regional Taylor ham, paired with egg and cheese on a kaiser roll. While the salty, sweet and spiced processed pork product may seem similar to Spam to West Coasters like me, Jersey locals would likely slap you silly for that comparison.
Smookler calls it a “fermented ham” (though the FDA doesn’t officially allow it to be labeled as such); it’s cured with lactic acid and curing salts. He’s surprised to find that his pork roll has even more devotees than the classic bacon, egg and cheese.
On a Wednesday morning, Smookler carefully toasts the buns and bagels on the grill while cracking eggs one-handed, cooking them to a medium-over consistency with a jammy center. American cheese, thick slabs of bacon or ham are piled on top, then wrapped up and sliced to order. You might have to wait a minute or two, but it’s well worth it.
For Smookler, the new venture is a kind of high-low culinary adventure at his Golden Bear Station restaurant, which otherwise serves destination-worthy dishes like wood-fired Dover Sole ($75 for two), dreamy cacio e pepe ($22) and Italian-Korean tteokbokki (Korean rice cakes with pesto and Bolognese sauce, $22), as well as a splurge-worthy porterhouse steak ($205) for the table.
Though the breakfast sandwiches have only been available for less than a month, word is already spreading. Cars are steadily pulling up, even on quiet Wednesday mornings.
The BEC Kaiser is $7, the bagel version is $10, and the Pork Roll is $12. Additional breakfast items include top-tier espresso drinks ($4 – $6.50 for matcha-infused coffees), a contender for the best kouign-amann (a buttery, caramelized sugar pastry made in-house, $6) and a croissant from Acme Bread ($5). The couple plans to offer more grab-and-go breakfast items in the future.
Open 7-11 a.m. Wednesday to Friday, and 8 a.m. to noon Saturday and Sunday. 8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, Instagram.com/spkandcoffee
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.