It’s been a hot minute since I could call myself a New Yorker, but the BECSPK morning ritual is something I remember well. Shorthand for “bacon, egg and cheese with salt, pepper and ketchup” on a soft roll, it’s a grab-and-go breakfast available at most neighborhood bodegas. It’s the breakfast burrito of the subway-set — and it’s coming to Sonoma County.
This summer, chef Joshua Smookler of Golden Bear Station will launch SPK, a morning-only coffee and breakfast sandwich pickup spot in front of his Kenwood restaurant. The Long Island native grew up with the BECSPK and can’t seem to find anything similar in Sonoma County.
“It’s always wrong when I ask for it,” he said.

SPK will also offer a Japanese-style omelet on milk bread, and a sausage, egg and cheese roll with katsu sauce.
Fortunately, you won’t have to suffer through burned bodega coffee from Smookler, a stickler for perfection in his morning java. Instead, he’ll serve Intelligentsia coffee, cappuccino, latte and espresso.
Just don’t plan to stick around.
“It’s gonna be fast. You can get it to go or order ahead on an app,” Smookler said.
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.