Calistoga is one of my favorite Wine Country towns because it somehow makes me feel like I’m on vacation, even though it’s less than an hour away from my house. I love its low-key, casual vibe, its unpretentiousness and the cute shops along Lincoln Avenue. Now, after visiting Lola Wines, I have another reason to adore Calistoga. Like the town itself, Lola is the kind of place that inspires visitors to slow down and chill, all while exploring an array of vibrant and delicious wines.
The story
Growing up on Anna Maria Island on Florida’s Gulf Coast, Seth Cripe took an interest in wine at an early age. And I mean early. He was just 13 years old, working as a busser and dishwasher at a local restaurant called Beach Bistro, when his boss recognized the spark in him. Though Cripe was underage, he was allowed to taste wines from the restaurant’s extensive list and he learned all he could about the wines of the world. After meeting Swanson Vineyards founder W. Clarke Swanson at Beach Bistro, Cripe left school at age 17 and headed to Napa Valley. He worked at Swanson for four years before moving on to Pfeiffer Vineyards in Australia, and later, Caymus Vineyards in Rutherford.
Cripe founded Lola, named for his beloved dog, in 2008 on the idea that wine and the Napa Valley itself should be unpretentious, approachable and affordable. The winery works with Napa Valley vineyards from Yountville to Calistoga, along with sites in the Russian River Valley and Santa Lucia Highlands, to produce a wide-ranging lineup. In addition to nationally distributed Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, Cripe makes 20 small-production bottlings from esoteric varieties like Counoise, Chenin Blanc and Muscat.
The vibe
The Lola House tasting room, set in a petite 1892 brick house, lies just off Lincoln Avenue. Indoor tastings take place in the home’s traditional-meets-modern parlor, with its rustic brick fireplace and intimate groupings of mix-and-match tables and chairs. There, wall hangings that include historic photos, original art and Cripe’s prized surfboard combine to create a cozy and eclectic feel. On warm days, the pretty back patio is the place to be. Leafy potted plants and flowers provide natural separations between seating areas, ensuring a bit of privacy between groups, and a few slender palm trees tower overhead. You might find yourself — as I did — wishing this could be your very own backyard hangout.
On the palate
Lola House is all about showcasing the winery’s less-common varietals. Offerings go to wine club members first, then whatever they don’t snap up is showcased at the tasting room. Cripe makes the wines with minimal cellar intervention, using neutral oak to showcase the purity of the fruit. The wines are fresh and energetic without veering too far in the “lean and mean” direction.
Chenin Blanc is making a comeback in California, and Lola’s 2022 bottling from St. Helena ($45) makes a great case for its resurgence. The wine is crisp and bright, with floral accents and apple-pear flavors. The 2023 Calistoga Dry Muscat ($45), made in large clay vessels called amphora, has the floral aromatics of a sweeter bottling — yet the wine is delightfully dry. Think apricots and tropical fruits. The 2023 Yountville Counoise ($65) is another gem. It’s light on the palate, showing vibrant red berry aromas, mouthwatering acidity and a touch of spice.
Tastings cost $35 for a flight of five wines. Expect to spend around 90 minutes tasting through the selections.
Beyond the bottle
Cripe and his brother Mic are among the world’s only producers of bottarga, a caviar made from salt-cured and dried gray mullet roe harvested from the waters near Anna Maria Island and the neighboring fishing village of Cortez. Along with bottarga, they offer smoked mullet roe and blackfin tuna mojama — a salt-cured and dried tuna loin that’s sometimes called the “prosciutto of the sea.” Lola visitors can sample the delicacies via the Cortez Conservas Pairing add-on ($30), or the à la carte menu of snacks and small plates. The spring menu includes a gorgeously presented whipped burrata accented with bottarga, chives and lemon. I also sampled the seasonal mojama toast adorned with quince paste and Manchego. Both were delicious, with layered and complex flavors.
Lola Wines, 916 Foothill Blvd., Calistoga, 707-342-0623, lolawines.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.