West county has a distinct feel all its own. Historically known as a “hippie” enclave, the region is better known today as a creative hub for artists, musicians, makers, chefs, and winemakers. It’s also famous for the beautiful Russian River Valley wine region, which produces legendary Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.

Taste

Auteur Wines

The winery’s new Russian River tasting room is a stunner. Set near Forestville, the contemporary space takes full advantage of its hillside setting, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a sheltered terrace for admiring the vineyard and redwood views. The design is as inviting as it is awe-inspiring.

“When the architect asked me how I wanted the new tasting room to feel, I told him ‘a warm embrace,’” says Laura Juhasz, who co-owns the winery with her winemaker husband, Kenneth, and two other couples who are investment partners. “We don’t want people to feel intimidated here. Wine is supposed to calm your heart, calm your mind, and connect you to others.”

Auteur’s lineup of minimalist wines highlights expressive single-vineyard and appellation-specific Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. If you love a mystery, book the “Be Here Now” tasting — coming soon — an exploration of wines presented without any information about their background. Reservations recommended. 10520 Wohler Road, Healdsburg. 707-766-0222, auteurwines.com

Horse & Plow

This small, family-owned winery just outside Sebastopol is known for its natural wines and bright ciders made from organic apples. The setting is wonderfully bucolic, with a sweet barn for indoor tastings and a spacious outdoor area set amid shady oaks, apple trees, and a bountiful vegetable garden. Choose from offerings by the flight, glass, or bottle, then settle in with a cheese or charcuterie plate and feel the stresses of everyday life melt away. On Sundays, there’s live music from 2-4 p.m. Reservations recommended. 1272 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Sebastopol. 707-827-3486, horseandplow.com

Ryme Cellars

Rustic Ryme Cellars is an off-the-beaten-path haven behind Forestville’s main drag. Taste minimal-intervention wines made from varieties like Aglianico. Reservations required. 6450 First St., Forestville. 707-820-8121, rymecellars.com

Porter-Bass Vineyard & Winery

At Porter-Bass Vineyard & Winery, set on a biodynamic vineyard estate surrounded by redwood and fir forests, sample cool-climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel under a walnut tree in front of the owners’ home. Reservations required. 11750 Mays Canyon Road, Guerneville. 707-869-1475, porter-bass.com

Joseph Swan Vineyards

O.G. Joseph Swan Vineyards is known for its beautifully balanced old vine Zinfandel and Pinot Noir, along with a cool lineup of wines like Tannat, Valdiguie, and skin-contact whites. Tastings happen at an outdoor table overlooking the estate vineyard or among the barrels. 2916 Laguna Road, Forestville. 707-573-3747, swanwinery.com

Dine

Wild Poppy Cafe & Market

This roadside café is a hidden gem for breakfast, brunch, and lunch. The creekside patio is the place to be, with its weathered wooden tables and relaxed ambiance. The frequently refreshed menu emphasizes organic, biodynamic, and regeneratively farmed ingredients grown locally — with lots of exciting vegetarian and vegan options. 9890 Bodega Hwy., Sebastopol. 707-503-6332, thewildpoppycafe.com

Bazaar Sonoma

What happens when a veteran of Healdsburg’s SingleThread opens a Chinese restaurant in Forestville? Something both unexpected and delicious. Known locally as BaSo, this compact café serves boldly flavored traditional fare without falling into the all-too-common trap of Americanization. The pork dumplings are divine, and don’t skip the sizzling seasonal fish. 6566 Front St., Forestville. 707-614-8056, bazaar-sonoma.com

Editor’s note: A Sept. 22 fire gutted Bazaar Sonoma, leaving the Forestville restaurant temporarily closed. However, the team is planning several local pop-ups as The Matriarch. Learn more and find the pop-up schedule at bazaar-sonoma.com.

Underwood Bar & Bistro

In blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Graton, this neighborhood favorite combines Paris bistro ambiance with — surprise! — flavorful Thai-inspired dishes. For 25 years, Underwood has been the place to spot local winemakers stopping in for a post-harvest beer paired with everything from steak frites and French onion soup to Thai lettuce cups. 9113 Graton Road, Graton. 707-823-7023, underwoodgraton.com 

Explore

Before heading home, hit the Sunday Sebastopol Farmers Market and soak up the community vibe while stocking up on farm-fresh produce. 6908 Weeks Way, Sebastopol. 707-861-1147, sebastopolfarmersmarket.org

Zipline through the redwoods on a Night Flight zipline tour and wonder at the stars from tree-top platforms. Sonoma Canopy Tours, 6250 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental. 888-494-7868, sonomacanopytours.com

Insider Tip

Book an orchard hike

Sample a delicious array of artisan olive oils, vinegars, and apple products at Gold Ridge Organic Farms. 3387 Canfield Road, Sebastopol. 707-823-3110, goldridgeorganicfarms.com

Grab a post-dinner drink

Lively, plant-filled Fern Bar at The Barlow is open until 10 p.m. on weekends. 6780 Depot St., Suite 120, Sebastopol. 707-861-9603, fernbar.com

The post Spend A Perfect Wine Weekend in the Russian River Valley appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Hidden deep within rural west county is a restaurant you’ve visited a hundred times or have never heard of.

Locally, it’s legendary, a longtime favorite of wine industry folk who stop in for a beer after a long day among the vines and barrels of Green Valley. No one bats an eye when someone wearing dusty boots and Carhartt pants walks through the door.

Underwood Bistro is part of the fabric of Graton, having weathered nearly 25 years in the volatile restaurant industry. Built on the bones of a former roadhouse and watering hole, it’s retained its familiar come-as-you-are charm. Once inside, however, diners are transported to a Parisian-style bistro with long banquettes, bentwood chairs, a nickel-topped bar and soft yellow lighting that gives it an all-day sunset glow.

Opened in 2001 by San Francisco transplant and former chef Matthew Greenbaum, the menu has always featured brasserie classics like French onion soup, steak frites, cauliflower gratin and duck leg confit. But the kitchen is equally adept at tapas-style Mediterranean dishes and maybe a surprise Thai dish or two in the last few years.

It’s never been easy to pinpoint Underwood’s exact focus — “global tapas” doesn’t do it justice — but more importantly, there are always familiar favorites to revisit. Open for dinner until 9:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, it’s also a rare late-night spot.

Chef Mark Miller has helmed the kitchen for 20 years, creating food that pairs perfectly with the region’s cool-climate Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays and adding his touches to the menu — most notably authentic Thai dishes.

On his first trip to Southeast Asia in the early 1990s, he fell in love with the hallmark sweet, sour and salty flavors of Thai cuisine — so much so that he began cooking in a Thai kitchen, learning how to make authentic curries, sauces and wok-fired dishes.

“I started going back every year — sometimes twice a year. Working in a Thai kitchen just changed me,” Miller said.

And while a few Thai dishes began appearing on the Underwood menu over the years, it wasn’t until COVID-19 that Thai cuisine became a secret specialty for in-the-know locals.

As restaurants shifted to takeout-only during the early months of the pandemic, Underwood moved to an all-Thai menu to simplify takeout. Cheeseburgers just don’t travel as well as pad Thai, said Miller. Locals not only loved it, they lined up for it.

“It just took off,” he said. With few choices for any type of Asian cuisine in west county, flavorful dishes like pad thai, crispy rice salad, Thai lettuce cups and Thai-style fried chicken gained a following.

In the years since, the Underwood menu has returned to its lineup of European tapas-style dishes — though Thai fan favorites have remained.

This year, he hopes to do a Thai pop-up featuring some of his favorite recipes, happy to have an excuse to fire up the wok and cook what he loves.

Fun Fact: Pad thai is the number one seller among Thai dishes. “I’m not sure why, but we serve hundreds of them each week,” Miller said.

The Vibe: The bar is the heart of the restaurant and a great place to hang out if you’re going solo. The dining room is cozy, with tables for two and four — but it can get loud at night. The secluded outdoor patio is excellent for a lunch rendezvous or brunch with your dog.

The Food: Chou-fleur, a cauliflower gratin, is a must-try — even if you hate cauliflower. No one can hate that much butter and cheese on anything. Salads are a specialty, and they’re all worth trying. The French frisse aux lardons salad has bitter greens, a poached egg and pancetta. You can’t go wrong with entrées, but the pad grapao moo is excellent. This unique Thai dish has spicy ground pork, a fried egg, pungent fish sauce with lime juice and jasmine rice. Hat Yai fried chicken is a revelation.

The Perks: An excellent classic cocktail list.

The Tab: Appetizers are $12-$15, and with a cocktail are a nice light choice. Salads are $13 to $24, and entrées from $24 to $36 (steak is $55). The range of prices makes it affordable for most, but you can certainly splurge.

The Service: Overall excellent, with props to the bar staff. Wait times are reasonable, even on busy nights.

The Spot: 9113 Graton Road, Graton, 707-823-7023, underwoodgraton.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

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Whether you’re a Wine Country visitor on a Thanksgiving getaway or a local looking to get away from relatives, there are plenty of winery tasting rooms that are open this Thursday. A Thanksgiving visit to Sonoma and Napa wineries is also a good excuse to start your Black Friday shopping early and bring home bottled gifts (to yourself, or someone equally deserving of a special treat). Click through the gallery for details.

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Sonoma County is a haven for foodies and lovers of craft beer. It’s largest city, Santa Rosa, was recently named microbrew capital of the United States and, with the abundance of high quality, locally grown produce and the surge in local breweries, locals and visitors are spoiled for culinary choice. To meet the demands of discerning beer geeks, many Sonoma restaurants are now tailoring their drinks menus to include more local brews. Click through the gallery above for eight Sonoma spots that are worth a visit, both for the food and the craft beer. 

The post 8 Great Sonoma Restaurants for Craft Beer Lovers appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

When I heard that Boathouse Sushi was taking over the former M.Y. China slot in the Graton Resort & Casino several months ago, I wasn’t impressed. It seemed like an odd choice for such a grand, two-story space, and not fitting as a flagship restaurant for the new $175 million hotel that opened next to the gambling hall in November.

There’s already a fast food Boathouse Asian Noodles in the casino’s food court, after all, and frankly, it’s awful, with soggy chow mein, bland pho and sticky orange chicken.

There was the original Boathouse Sushi, a casual joint that for 12 years sat on Redwood Drive and Rohnert Park Expressway before relocating to the casino in October, and there is another Boathouse on Mendocino Avenue in Santa Rosa, serving weird stuff like fries smothered in bacon and cream sauce, and a burger topped in pineapple and avocado.

But call me surprised. This new place is really good.

Partner owner and chef Catherine Do expanded the menu to other Asian cuisines, including traditional Chinese and Vietnamese cooking. She added fancier dishes like a whole salt and pepper crab, presented in a colorful assemblage of red onion, red, yellow and green peppers (market price); and nicely done authentic fare like congee, properly silky and studded with ground pork and preserved egg ($14). Appropriately, the restaurant bears a new name: Boathouse Asian Eatery.

The positive mood starts at the entry, as we scoot through the marble clad hotel lobby and into the eatery, where new floor-to-ceiling windows protect us from the cigarette smoke saturating the gaming rooms.

The M.Y. China floor plan was redone to welcome a centerpiece oyster and sushi bar, and a tall, uplit tree reaching toward the second floor loft. Gray banquettes and chairs are brightened with red and gold Japanese fabric pillows, dramatic pendant lighting is sophisticated, and a white brick wall is painted with a theatrical Japanese-style octopus mural. It feels like a big city escape, no matter that we’re actually dining in what was a cow pasture until the casino debuted three years ago.

My dining companion doesn’t care for sushi, which delights me. That means I can hog it all myself, with my favorite Rainbow roll, a California roll that’s draped with sashimi tuna, salmon, yellowtail, shrimp and snapper sprinkled in crunchy tobiko ($15). The fish can be pricey, for two pieces each of nigiri such as maguro ($7), sake ($6) and hamachi ($7), but they’re generous cuts, and we can also delve into more exotic bites like raw, well-marbled Wagyu ($9) and briny oyster ($7).

Other Americanized rolls don’t appeal, such as the Crazy Monkey of coconut shrimp, grilled pineapple, spicy crab, avocado and spicy aioli ($15), or the Mexican roll of spicy crab, cucumber, ebi and avocado splashed with spicy jalapeño ponzu ($13). A Trumpzilla roll is flat-out frightening, a mess of tuna, tempura avocado, spicy crab, albacore, chile threads and pepper sauce ($15). There are way too many offbeat flavors tripping things up.

But then, I’m old school with my sushi and crave the pure stuff, like decadent chutoro nigiri ($16), the fatty tuna rich and needing nothing more than a dot of wasabi.

Many other dishes are pleasantly uncluttered, with bright, light sauces. Shaking beef delivers wok seared, cubed filet mignon tossed with bell pepper, onion and a touch of oil ($21), while shrimp fried rice ($14) is fluffy, clean tasting and not greasy as it too often is at other restaurants. I also like the refreshing touch of fresh lime in the barbecue pork belly fried rice sparked with kimchee amid the scrambled egg ($11).

On my first visit, the kitchen crafted ramen, the tonkatsu broth bobbing with chashu pork, bean sprouts, bamboo, corn, green onion, soft boiled egg and a dollop of blackened garlic mayu oil ($14). It was delicious, so I’m sad to see it removed from the menu on a second visit. Yet duck noodle soup is a superb meal, too, stocked with tender duck leg, roast pork, crunchy bok choy and egg noodles in earthy shiitake broth ($15).

It’s easy to order a lot of food here, since the lengthy menu tempts with worthy bites like Vietnamese crepes made of rice-tumeric dough stuffed with shrimp, pork, onion and bean sprouts ($13), or an iron pot brimming with Chinese sausage, barbecue pork, chicken, king trumpet mushrooms and toasted rice ($16).

Yet portions are large, so it’s better to order one or two plates at a time and see how full you get (dishes are delivered as they’re ready, though my server asked on each visit if we would prefer pacing).

My only disappointment is with the bento boxes, which are expensive and skimpy. One my first outing, the build-your-own price was $15, and a few weeks later the cost had increased to $17. We choose two entrées, like chicken katsu and two pieces of shrimp tempura rounded out with miso soup, a tiny salad and scoop of steamed rice. I’d like to see artisanal Japanese pickles, at least.

Still, as the slot machines glitter through the restaurant glass and servers quickly bring amply poured glasses of wine, it feels like a party in this place. Well done, new Boathouse. We’re in for smooth sailing.

Carey Sweet is a Santa Rosa-based food and restaurant writer. Read her restaurant reviews every other week in Sonoma Life. Contact her at carey@careysweet.com.

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CLOSED

Occidental-based artist Les Claypool is a man of many talents, from being the lead vocalist of the band Primus and avant garde artist to creating his own wine label. Add to the resume: Official namer of the most popular breakfast dish on the menu at Zosia Cafe & Kitchen in Graton.

The “Eggstravaganza” is a steaming bowl of fried rice with bacon, onion, celery and jalapeno with an over-easy egg draped over the top ($7.95). It’s a hearty little day-starter, made even more delightful by the fact that Claypool himself is sitting at a table next to me, possibly dreaming up other breakfast monikers. It seemed rude to ask.

The tiny hamlet of Graton just got the restaurant it’s been waiting for in Zosia. Open by husband and wife team Monika and Slawek Michalak, it’s a quirky-cool cafe that’s Wine Country enough for the espresso and pinot-set, but offbeat enough for the likes of locals like Claypool and the West County artist community to tuck into Loco Moco, Polish pierogi and borscht on weekday afternoons, while discussing life’s pressing issues.

The Polish couple, who worked with Claypool on his wine label, have transformed the corner of Graton Road and Edison St. into an inviting space with a large outdoor patio, a forthcoming Airstream coffee stand and a cozy European-style kitchen and cafe with great food, sleek lines, and original art created by GM Dawid Jaworski (another Pole and Barndiva alum). Suffice to say its a worthy addition to the destination-worthy and celeb-friendly Willow Wood and Underwood restaurants within spitting distance of the new cafe.

But what brought us out, in the pouring winter rain, was the half of the menu devoted to authentic Eastern European comfort cuisine, something sorely lacking in Sonoma County.

“There was just a need for it,” said Slawek. “Everyone comes from somewhere,” he said, and many people recognize Eastern European foods from their grandparents or great-grandparents.

Primarily served at lunch (the restaurant is currently open for breakfast and lunch only), Russian chef Ekaterina Zaitseva has an ever-changing lineup of rib-sticking dishes from cabbage borscht and Siberian “pelmeni” dumpling soup, to kielbasa, polish crepes and hunter’s stew called “Bigos”.

Slawek says the staff have daily discussions (okay sometimes ongoing arguments) about the dishes, because each of their families have a slightly different way of preparing them.

Take the borscht ($5.95 cup) for example: We tried it on a day it was make with a tomato base, cabbage and potatoes. No beets.

“We use beets,” said Slawek. So another day, he said, they’ll have it with beets. It’s the same for the pierogies ($8.95 for six), which some days are a little bigger, some days a little smaller, with different fillings including pork and beef, potato and cheese or sauerkraut and mushroom. “Polish are usually a little bigger,” said Slawek.

Polish crepes ($8.95 for three) filled with farmer’s cheese, or savory meat and veggies, are better known as blintzes, or in my Hungarian family, palatschinke. Whatever you call them, they’re breakfast perfection, made from scratch.

Cabbage rolls ($8,95) are another Eastern European favorite, filled with pork, beef and rice, and twice as good the next day (so order enough to take home). Zaitseva, who previously worked at the European Food Store (2790 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa), makes almost everything in house, so put yourself in her hands and try something you’ve never heard of — like the daily special of Bigos ($8.95), made with sauerkraut, beef, and a mix of spices that ends up being a warm winter hug in a bowl.

“There’s a story behind every dish,” said Dawid, explaining each of the unique plates piled in front of me.

Keep in mind that that Eastern European dishes are only about half the menu. The kitchen has a solid grasp on more California-style cuisine as well, with a solid burger, hearty salads and a luxe pulled pork sandwich that doesn’t rely on gobs of sauce for great smoky flavor. Breakfast includes eggs, omelettes, pastries and breakfast sandwiches, along with espressos and coffees.

Most dishes are under $10, and are perfect for sharing. Don’t miss checking out Slawek’s 1965 R695 BMW motorcycle on display in the cafe that’s still in running condition (though Monika prefers it stays behind glass than with Slawek riding it.)

And the name of the restaurant, pronounced Zo-she-a? Their eight-year-old daughter’s. Seems Claypool suggested that one too. 

Zosia Cafe and Kitchen, 9010 Graton Road, Graton, 861-9241. Open Wednesday through Monday for breakfast and lunch, closed Tuesday, zosiacafe.wordpress.com.

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Since it opened three years ago, the Graton Resort and Casino has brought a taste of Las Vegas to Sonoma, offering a sea of slot machines, table games, stylish restaurants, bars and event space — but no accommodations.

That changes Nov. 15 with the opening of the casino’s $175 million hotel near Rohnert Park, including 200 upscale rooms, a resort-style pool, fitness center, spa and salon.

The six-story hotel, with an expansive ballroom for concerts and conventions, essentially doubles the resort’s size and boosts its bid to compete as an overnight Wine Country destination, with Vegas flair.

“We’re going to do some world-class pampering,” said Joe Hasson, the casino’s vice president and general manager.

Gamblers who participate in the casino’s four-tier loyalty program, Graton Rewards, can expect the expansion to offer points toward hotel perks, including free and discounted rooms.

The luxurious pool area comes with amenities standard on the Strip: a bar, cabanas and look for online casino at Svenskkasinon lounge chairs in the water. Other elements will remain unique to Sonoma, however, including a design and color palette Hasson said was meant to be reflective of the area’s scenic beauty.

This being Wine Country, hotel guests can also anticipate a taste of the area’s finest inside their rooms: Hasson said “the region’s terrific liquids” will find their way to the mini bars.

Room rates start at $399 for weekdays and $499 for weekends, plus taxes and fees. A stay at one of Las Vegas’ luxury resorts can go for far less, but Hasson said demand for the rooms has been strong, driving prices high and keeping them there.

Graton Resort & Casino, 288 Golf Course Drive W., Rohnert Park, 707-588-7100, gratonresortcasino.com

The post Take A Peek Inside the $175 Million Graton Casino Hotel appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

You know that funky little bistro with just enough urban cred to be cool, but stuck far enough out in the boondocks to keep away the the riff-raff? Yeah, that’s Underwood Bar & Bistro.
A perennial favorite of night owls and winemakers, it’s a meet and eat rendezvous in the tiny hamlet of Graton.
Underwood serves up perfect tapas (tuna tartare, cauliflower gratin, french onion soup, harissa fries, ceviche tostada), oysters and cocktails (don’t miss the Graton Sunrise) from lunch through late night as well as heartier entrees at dinner (steak frites, Moroccan lamb stew, duck breast, burgers).
9113 Graton Road, Graton, 823,7023.  Open for lunch Tuesday-Saturday 11:30 to 2:30, dinner Tuesday through Sunday 5-10pm, and has a late nite menu on Friday and Saturday. Closed Monday.
Hungry for brunch: Head across the street to sister eatery, Willow Wood Market & Cafe.
 

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Long before Anthony Bourdain ruined Sunday brunch
for, well, pretty much everyone, BiteClub had her suspicions. Frankly,
I think we all tend to be a bit too forgiving after a long, hard night
of drinking. We tend to overlook soggy toast and mushy eggs through the
fog of sleep still crusted in our eyes and the camaraderie of friends,
kids and dogs gathered ’round the brunch table. We get a little too
involved in sunny patio tables and crossword puzzles to pay much
attention to the canned orange juice and fishy salmon.

Which is why a good brunch — a well thought out, well-executed menu — is such a joy. It’s why people pack into already-overcrowded doorways and waste 45 minutes of perfectly good weekend waiting for a table.
It’s why BiteClub will pile the entire family into the car and drive 20
minutes to Graton (with McNibs whining the whole way) for the best
Benedict this side of my own double boiler.

I’m talking, of course, about the Willow Wood Market Cafe.
Tucked away in the tiny artists’ hamlet north of Sebastopol, it’s the
AM sibling to the Rive Gauche-y Underwood Bistro. Same ironic-tshirt
and artsy beret crowd but with lots more strollers and grandparents in
tow. I figured pretty much everyone around here had made pilgrimage out
to Groovy Graton at least once, but was shocked all week to find out
that many locals have never even heard of it.

Here’s the 411: The
ambiance is more than half the fun of the Willow Wood. You’re way off
the map in a town that is literally a block long but has a wacky-chic
creative vibe. If you don’t pick it up right away, don’t worry. You’ll
get it when you check out the “market” part of the restaurant stocked
with wind-up lederhosen, books about scary nuns and monster
finger-puppets. Gee-gaw gawkers wandering around the restaurant tend to
make servers’ jobs next to impossible on busy weekends, but it kills
the time while you’re waiting to eat.

The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, but brunch is by far my favorite time to go — mostly for the Monte Cristo and fresh OJ. Consider
Haagan Dazs-dipped challah bread, ham and Jarlsberg topped with fresh
strawberries and hazelnuts. Take a moment. It’s okay. Even better is
the luxuriously lemony Hollandaise with home fries. Brunch runs
from 9am until about 2pm on Sunday. You can get breakfast until 11:30
and lunch (the polenta and rock shrimp are quite tasty) after that. But
really, why would you?

Willow Wood Market Cafe, 9020 Graton Road, Graton, (707) 823-0233. Get to know more about Graton and all its wonderment here.

Boon Fly Cafe
Hollandaise
is running in my blood these days. I’d nearly forgotten about spending
a recent birthday brunch jaunt (alone and loving every minute of it) to
the Boon Fly Cafe. Located inside the Carneros Inn compound, Boon Fly
has country-cousin aspirations with its quaint porch swing but is stark
and modern inside. Skip through the Napa-bound crowds and pull up a
chair at the bar if you’re flying solo (or duo) and wrap your lips
around their Boon Fly Benedict, made with a not-too-hot
Hollandaise. You’ll get toasty bird’s nest of hash browns along side,
but honestly, there’s always room for fresh donut holes, which come in groups of four or twelve and are made to order. Bloody Mary? Please.

Boon Fly Cafe, 4048 Sonoma Highway, Napa, 707-299-4870. Brunch 7am to 2pm Sat & Sun.

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