The squat, two-story building on the southern end of Penngrove’s tiny Main Street has worn many hats over its 125-year history – hotel, dive bar, Prohibition speakeasy, lesbian-owned bohemian music venue and biker bar. But one theme has remained constant: booze.

In late August, the space at 10056 Main St. reopened as The Grove, offering an elevated yet approachable menu served in a chandelier-lit dining room with a vintage flair. It’s still very much a bar – just with fewer sticky tables, a working bathroom door (RIP, Black Cat) and without the bras stapled to the ceiling or rough-and-tumble regulars once bellied up to the counter.

Restaurateur and investor Jeff Inglin of Petaluma’s Beyond the Glory sports bar owns the new venture, but it’s his 25-year-old son Mike and Mike’s fiancée, Ava Chabot, who have made the project their own. The couple manages the day-to-day operations and frequently pitches in as kitchen help, bar staff or servers – very much a family affair.

They’re also responsible for The Grove’s breezy, 1920s speakeasy aesthetic. Think velvet barstools, restored wood floors, flapper-era posters, embossed tin ceiling tiles and a dramatic crystal chandelier. The ancient oak bar remains the heart of the dining room, though its most colorful tales are probably best left steeped in its gin-and-tonic-soaked grain.

The food

Chef Gus Vega, 35, creates a surprisingly ambitious menu from a kitchen barely the size of a walk-in closet. Every square inch serves a purpose, and during busy hours, the close quarters create an intimate, high-energy environment for the small culinary team.

“You get to know each other’s every move,” Vega said. His resume includes stints at Petaluma’s Central Market, Seared and Cafe Zazzle, as well as Salt and Stone in Kenwood and The Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen. Now, he’s diving headfirst into dishes like seared sole Dore with a lemon caper beurre blanc ($34), a cassoulet-like duck cazuela ($34) and steak frites with black garlic butter ($32).

While a few expediting hiccups occurred during our visits, most dishes were well-executed and thoughtfully composed.

Vega’s passion for Southern cuisine shows in staples like shrimp and grits ($16) on the dinner menu, along with a fried oyster po’boy ($22), biscuits and gravy ($20) and chicken and waffles ($22) for weekend brunch.

With minimal storage, ingredients are ordered and delivered in small quantities, usually enough for just two days, so the menu changes frequently based on availability. That’s just the way Vega likes it.

“Food is my life,” he said. “I love to see happy people eating my food.”

But not everyone was thrilled with the changes when The Grove first opened.

“Some locals talked about boycotting us,” said Chabot, referencing the building’s previous incarnation as Mack’s, a biker- and sports-friendly dive. Still, she said, old regulars occasionally stop by, and usually leave smiling.

“If you want to be part of this, there’s always a seat here for you,” Vega added.

Best bets

The menu changes frequently and shifts seasonally. Several dishes from early fall, like fried green tomatoes, chicken succotash and pibil sliders, are no longer available. Recent additions include duck poutine ($22) with shoestring fries and cheddar curds, fritto misto ($25), Brussels sprouts with lemon and Parmesan ($18), and brown butter chicken thighs with parsnip purée, squash, feta and kale.

Shrimp and Grits ($16): Appetizer-sized but packed with flavor. The potlikker sauce (brothy sauce from simmered greens), blackened shrimp and creamy cheddar grits are legit.

The Grove Mac ($16): A creamy Mornay sauce with cheddar, goat cheese, mozzarella and Parmesan is excellent, with bits of bacon and crisp breadcrumbs. Add lobster ($12) for the full effect.

Seared Sole Dore ($34): Whether it’s halibut or sole, the dish delivers with a bright lemon butter sauce, mashed potatoes and garlic spinach. Classic, simple comfort food.

Oyster Po’Boy ($22, brunch only): The breaded and fried Drake’s Bay oysters are crisp and juicy, though the sandwich could benefit from less bread and a lighter hand on the toppings (lettuce, tomatoes and pickles). These oysters shine in the fritto misto, with less bread and more fried seafood.

Grove Benedict ($26, brunch only): Two giant lobster claws top a lemony hollandaise, perfectly poached farm-fresh eggs, spinach and a fluffy English muffin.

Chicken and Waffles ($22, brunch only): The buttermilk fried chicken thighs are tender and juicy, while the sweet potato waffle and hot honey add contrast to the salty chicken.

Biscuits and Gravy ($20, brunch only): Vega makes a Southern-girl-approved biscuit, according to my very picky, very Southern friend, Taylor. High praise.

House Cocktails ($15-$16): Creative cocktails like the Black Wall Street with Basil Hayden Bourbon, vermouth, black walnut liqueur and orange bitters ($16) and the Flapper’s Delight, with vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, cucumber and basil ($15), are fun and flirty. But the quality can vary depending on the night and the bartender’s workload. A little practice (and some batching) could help.

Happy Hour: Great small bites and cocktail deals from 3-6 p.m. Monday through Friday.

The Pour House: The restaurant opens for coffee, espresso drinks and housemade pastries at 7 a.m. Monday through Friday and 8 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. Reservations recommended.

The Grove Speakeasy, 10056 Main St., Penngrove, 707-664-5916, thegrovespeakeasy.com

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I hadn’t thought about Petaluma’s Speakeasy restaurant and its sibling music venue, The Big Easy, in a decade — until I started working on a story about Sonoma County’s best mac and cheese. Searching for candidates, Speakeasy’s lobster mac rose to the forefront of a neck-and-neck selection of gooey, melty, cheesy pasta from some of the most recognized restaurants from Cloverdale to Petaluma.

It made the cut based on my memory of the sweet lobster with cheddar, fontina, herby breadcrumbs and crumbled bacon clinging to every surface of the curved orecchiette pasta. But it also made me realize it might be time to see if Speakeasy was still as good as I remembered in its tucked-away location on Kentucky Street.

On a chilly January evening, Speakeasy’s outdoor patio didn’t feel like a good idea despite being a massive draw in warmer seasons. Inside is dark and sparsely decorated with just a few tables and a bar. Service is friendly and adept but not fawning. As early bird eaters, our only company inside was a lone diner at the bar, but tables filled up as night fell in earnest.

And that’s the point of Speakeasy, one of Petaluma’s few late-night dining options — open until 10 p.m. on weeknights and midnight on Friday and Saturday. It’s the comfort food you crave after a few cocktails: rib-sticking and classic.

You can get the Speakeasy menu with a martini at the neighboring Big Easy while listening to singer-songwriters, jazz, big band, hip-hop and electro-pop seven nights per week. Local music producer Roger Tschann owns both venues.

But this story is about the Speakeasy experience and the food crafted by chefs Jesus Ortiz and Angel Chan. It’s not overwrought cuisine but straightforward comfort food that’s impressive for being just that. Comforting.

Ortiz is a humble, behind-the-scenes cook you could find in almost any restaurant in Sonoma County. Originally from Mexico, he’s lived in Petaluma for nearly 25 years, working at Old Chicago Pizza and Brixx before joining Speakeasy seven years ago. His cooking skills weren’t bought, but hard-earned while working menial prep jobs and slowly moving his way up the line.

Ortiz isn’t out to win critical acclaim with fancy ingredients, an unstained chef coat and a publicity team. Instead, he works day after day in his well-worn whites, serving good food that makes people happy.

Ortiz and Chan, who is from the Yucatán, have introduced some traditional Mexican dishes, including carnitas, ceviche and tacos, but dishes like the very American mac and cheese, short ribs with polenta, burgers, sandwiches and grilled steak remain their most popular. Prices are incredibly reasonable, and such a relief with the ongoing sticker shock of $32 burgers and $25 salads.

The menu doesn’t change much, though specials appear from time to time, which is just fine. Occasionally, a big bowl of mac and cheese at a restaurant where nobody knows your name is the most satisfying meal of all.

Best bets

Braised Short Ribs with Blue Cheese Polenta, $24: I’ve had braised short ribs from some of the best chefs in Sonoma County, and these were — by a landslide — my favorite. Long-braised meat that’s not too fatty or lean falls apart faster than a Temu sundress. The polenta instantly raised my mood and cholesterol level, held together with more dairy than a milking barn. The blue cheese is an accent rather than a statement. The leftovers were extraordinary.

Lobster Mac and Cheese, $18: Exactly what you wish mac and cheese would be, but usually isn’t. Fontina adds creaminess to the sauce, with bits of bacon hidden about. Bowl-shaped orecchiette pasta, is perfect for holding onto breadcrumbs and cheese. My only complaint — I’m not sure the lobster adds that much to the whole thing. It would be equally delish without it. Either way, outstanding.

Tapas: Whether you make these a starter or a meal, little shared plates of papas bravas ($9) and spicy cauliflower ($14) are my favorites. Papas bravas are fried fingerling potatoes sprinkled with chili powder and served with chipotle aioli — which is how any fries should be served. Cauliflower is only a stinky carrier for sauce, in my book. This version of pan-fried florets has prickles of Anaheim pepper and salty capers that make it a joy rather than a punishment.

Tacos, $17 for three: Our favorite tacos were vegetarian and delicious. Soft corn tacos are piled with cabbage slaw, avocado puree and parsley, with a choice of meat or vegetables, but jackfruit smothered in sweet-sour barbecue sauce (a pulled pork dupe) and fried plantain with coconut were our top picks.

Fried Chicken, $23: If a TV dinner were delicious, this is what it would be. Crispy boneless chicken breasts, perfectly smooth mashed potatoes and flavorful gravy take me to a happy place sitting on the sofa, watching the Muppets and feeling like all is right with the world. If only there were a little square of overcooked apple pie.

Speakeasy Burger, $16: A simple, good burger served on a smushy brioche bun and all the fixings. Chipotle aioli gives it an added zing. Nothing complicated, nothing showy, just tasty.

Cheesecake, $7: Made in-house, flavors change with the chef’s whims. It’s more of a classic cheesecake that’s moist, fluffy and not overly sweet atop a buttery graham cracker crust. It’s not a mile-high Cheesecake Factory style, but a more modest grandma-style.

Speakeasy is open from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and until midnight on Friday and Saturday. Brunch begins at 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. 139 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. 707-776-4631, speakeasypetaluma.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The post Speakeasy Serves Late Night Comfort Food in Petaluma appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Those lazy summer days are almost here and with them the long, soft and delicious twilight evenings that call out for a cold beer with friends, to the tunes of live music. Kickstart the summer music season with this list of brew pubs and beer venues where you can rewind while taking in the sounds of the wide variety of bands available in Sonoma County.

THE LOCAL BARREL, Santa Rosa
Local Barrel presents live music every weekend on Saturdays starting between 8-9pm, and Sundays starting at 5pm. Below is a list of the latest lineup:

June 4, 5pm: Matt Bradford – Blistering dobro and gritty lyrics – a blend of folk, Americana, pop, and blues.

June 11, 5pm: Emily Hamilton – Soft vocals, acoustic guitarist, singer-songwriter.

June 17, 8pm: Robert Herrera and Ian Sherer – Local duo dishes out jazz, acoustic guitar, and rock and roll covers.

June 18, 5pm: Joe Clopton – Influenced by Nirvana, Sublime, Jack Johnson, Elliott Smith and Bob Marley, this Santa Rosa native is prepared to rock your Father’s Day.

June 24, 9pm: The Aces Reunion Show – This popular Sonoma County blues band are itching to squeeze out some sparks after ten years apart.

Local Barrel Taproom, 490 Mendocino Ave #104, Santa Rosa, facebook.com/TheLocalBarrel @TheLocalBarrel

BREWSTERS BEER GARDEN, Petaluma
Brewsters embraces the local music scene with its large outdoor space. This summer’s shows include:

Every Thursday, 5-8pm: “Bourbon & Bluegrass” – Enjoy a different bluegrass band every Thursday while Brewsters highlight a special bourbon in either a flight or special cocktail.

June 2, 5pm: The Hucklebucks – Picture a generous helping of West Coast jump blues, fold in an ample sampling of New Orleans rock n’ roll.

June 3, 3pm: Arizona and the Volunteers – Shake in a variety of blues, rock, soul, jazz, metal, then stir a lullaby or two into the mix.

June 4, 3pm: Todos Santos – the band blends Harmony driven roots, intermingles a little jazz, country, latin, blues, and then weaves in an original tune or two.

Brewsters has live music Fridays at 5pm, and every Saturday and Sunday starting at 3pm. Check their website under the calendar section for specific band dates.

Brewsters Beer Garden + Restaurant, 229 Water Street North, Petaluma, 707-981-8330, brewstersbeergarden.com @BrewstersBeerGarden

SONOMA SPEAKEASY, Sonoma
Enjoy some of the best blues-, Americana-, and country musicians Sonoma has to offer while partaking of a wide and varied selection of beer and wine. Upcoming acts include:

June 2, 7:30pm: Dan Martin and Noma Rocksteady Band – A San Francisco reggae, ska, and rocksteady band.

June 2, 6:30pm: Bruce Gordon – A jump, swing, and blues band to keep you movin’!

June 3, 6:30pm: Full Circle – A popular local cover band featuring keyboard, electric guitar and electric mandolin.

June 4, 5pm: Brandon Eardley – A mix of reggae, rock, folk, and blues.

Every Sunday, 8:30pm: Sonoma Acoustic Blues Jam, where anyone who wishes can have their turn in a jam session with other local artists and talents.

Doors open an hour before the show starts, unless otherwise noted. For a full list of musical acts, visit their website.

Sonoma Speakeasy, 452 1st Street East, Suite G, Sonoma, sonomaspeakeasymusic.com

HOPMONK TAVERN, Sebastopol
Live music every Friday and Saturday nights and some shows mid-week. Check calendar for upcoming events. Admission is $10 per person and most events are friendly for all ages.

June 2, 9pm: Train Wreck Junction – This band steams full speed ahead while flirting with a variety of country music eras.

June 4, 8pm: Parcivillian – An ample blend of rippling folk, punchy rock, stinging blues, and hard groove funk music.

HopMonk Tavern, 230 Petaluma Ave, Sebastopol, hopmonk.com

BREW COFFEE AND BEER, Santa Rosa
There’s more to brew than coffee and beer, like live music in the quaint little cafe just outside of downtown Santa Rosa. Check their Facebook page for upcoming events.

June 5, 7pm: Eileen and the In-Betweens – A five piece social justice indie folk band blown into the Bay Area on a southwest wind. Based out of New Mexico, this is a band of enchantment.

Brew, 555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-303-7372, brewcoffeeandbeer.com, @BrewCoffeeAndBeer

ST. FLORIAN’S BREWERY, Windsor
St. Florian’s offers fun for the whole family in the parking lot beside their brewery. Check their Facebook page for more events.

June 17: The Renovators – A Sonoma County rock n’ roll band playing  great covers for you to rock you.

St. Florian’s Brewery, 7704 Bell Rd, Windsor, 707-838-2739, stflroiansbrewery.com, @StFloriansBrewery

The post 6 Great Summertime Beer and Music Venues in Sonoma appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Close your eyes and you’d think you were in a bar on a Louisiana bayou. The dance hall is packed. The band plays zydeco, which melds French and Caribbean music styles, with accordions and washboards front and center. Dancers fill the floor, quickstepping and stomping. Beer flows, and the high-energy beat surges through everyone.

But you’re not in Louisiana. You’re in Sonoma, where a zydeco craze has taken hold.

Zydeco became a fixture in the Bay Area when black Creoles migrated from Louisiana to find work in the shipbuilding industry during World War II. With the Creoles came their music, and zydeco found a new home, gaining popularity in the 1970s and ’80s.

For 25 years, Sonoma-based Gator Beat — now Gator Nation — played zydeco, regularly selling out Little Switzerland (now Rossi’s 1906) and building a scene based on music, dancing and fun. Sonoma is also a popular stop for other zydeco bands, including the Tri-Tip Trio, featuring members of the Zydeco Flames.

Robert O’Maoilriain, known as the singer Sonoma Satchmo and owner of the Sonoma Speakeasy and American Music Hall, incorporates pop covers into his zydecoinfluenced performances, known as “swamp pop.” His bar in downtown Sonoma fills up by 8 p.m. for free, nightly live zydeco and Southern blues. Another local act, T-Luke & the Tight Suits, fronted by Lucas Dominigue (son of Gator Beat founder Richie Domingue), sells out venues with energetic, colorful performances.

“People can really connect to zydeco. The beat is accessible and upbeat, and the lyrics are relatable,” O’Maoilriain said. “It’s a timeless sound.”

And it remains as timely as ever, even in Wine Country.

Rossi’s 1906, 401 Grove St., Sonoma, 707-343-0044, rossis1906.com

Sonoma Speakeasy and American Music Hall, 452 First St. E., Sonoma, 707-996-1364, sonomaspeakeasyandamericanmusichall.com

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Working in restaurants is a hungry business. Despite being surrounded by food, most kitchen staff and servers leave their jobs hungry, tired and ready for a beer at 10 p.m. or so — just about the time most eateries shutter in Sonoma County.  Serving the county’s late night cravings with Lobster and Bacon Mac, the egg-topped Croque Madame, Sweet and Spicy Pork Belly and Wild Salmon Tacos is Speakeasy

Open from 5p.m. to 2 a.m., the tiny bar and dining room has quickly become a late-night hangout not only for industry folks, but also for barflies and revelers looking for a post-party nosh. 

The tapas-style menu covers all the bases — from creamy asparagus soup with tarragon creme fraiche ($6) to butternut squash and goat cheese panini (with crispy pork belly, $13), vegan tahini burgers with hand-cut fries ($9), spring Pea and mushroom risotto ($10), chicken Paillard with citrus caper butter ($13), the signature lobster mac (which may run out, so order early, $13) and the smoked ham, cheese and fried egg sandwich with Mornay sauce (croque Madame, $11).

Don’t miss the Jalapeno Firecrackers ($8) which come with a verbal warning: Apparently the heat level is variable and you never know what you’ll get. Unpredictable vegetables, those jalapenos. Avocado puree and a ready glass of milk help mitigate the fear factor.

Also worth the trip is Orange-Tea infused creme brulee ($6) with cookies. So now you know where to go to quell your 1a.m. munchie-attack with a nice pork belly taco and sweet and spicy chicken wings. You’re welcome.

Speakeasy, 139 Petaluma Blvd North, Suite B, Petaluma

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