Pupusas, the heart of Salvadoran comfort food, are the reason to seek out Don Julio’s restaurant in Rohnert Park — you’ll have to, because it’s not easy to find.

Tucked into a quiet shopping center at the south end of Rohnert Park, surrounded by thrift shops, hobby stores and family-run businesses, it’s the kind of place you might pass without a second glance. That would be a mistake.

Inside the tiny pupuseria, you’ll likely see co-owner Evelyn Sanabria shaping pupusas with a steady thwap, thwap between her practiced hands — a skill honed over a lifetime. Each thick, hand-formed round of masa is stuffed with cheese, meat or vegetables and griddled until the edges crisp. Tear one open, and a puff of steam carries the scent of ground corn. Add a forkful of curtido, a dip in salsa, and you’re tapping into millennia-old Salvadoran tradition.

A decade ago, pupusas were nearly impossible to find in Sonoma County. When Sanabria started tucking them into her adult son’s lunches, his co-workers were captivated by the warm, cheese-filled rounds. Requests started rolling in. Word spread, orders multiplied, and what began as a favor became a side hustle, then a neighborhood restaurant.

For Salvadorans, the craft is intimate — passed mother to daughter, shaped by family tradition, each household with its own touch. Now she’s trying to teach it to people who didn’t grow up with masa between their palms.

But two hands can only work so fast. Son and business partner Carlos Alas Grande saw trouble ahead: crafting dozens of pupusas by hand each day wouldn’t scale. Turning instinct into instruction, it turned out, wouldn’t be simple either.

Like many family cooks, Sanabria works by feel and taste rather than strict measurements.

“She never wrote anything down; it was all in her head,” said Grande, who works the register, busses tables, greets guests and from time to time makes pupusas.

“We can’t hire new people and tell them a little pinch of this and that,” he said. So he had his mother weigh every ingredient, every spice and herb, creating a roadmap for family and staff to follow.

Even then, there are limits.

“You still always have to taste everything,” Grande said. And his mother’s role remains central: “It’s all in her hands.”

Like many small businesses, the family does a little bit of everything, including the decor — equal parts heart and Home Depot. Inside, the dining room glows parrot green, with bamboo wainscoting and plastic foliage lining the walls. The kitchen is tucked behind a tiny beach shack, a nod to the family’s roots in El Salvador. Set into a shady nook with both indoor and outdoor seating, it feels like a small, hard-won escape from the everyday. Outside, picnic tables sit beneath faux-thatched umbrellas, and hand-painted murals of tropical beaches transport you just long enough to inhale the scent of a warm pupusa in your hands, steam rising, the edges still hot from the griddle, and settle in for a little lunchtime escape.

The food

Pupusas may be the main attraction, but the menu stretches far beyond with Mexican, Latin, and creative fusion dishes. Think hefty burritos, tamales, enchiladas, chimichangas, tacos, and even a pupusa burger.

Best bets

Pupusas, $5.25: These fat corn tortillas stuffed with pork, beans, cheese, chicken or vegetables are warm, comforting pockets of joy. Rip, dip into housemade salsa and add a pinch of vinegary curtida. Specialty pupusas, with fillings like birria and ground beef, rotate onto the menu every two weeks. Try the Pupusas Rancheras ($19.99) with two eggs, refried beans and salsa for a powerful breakfast or the Puchitaco, a pupusa topped with meat, potatoes, chipotle salsa and sour cream.

Sweet corn tamale, $10.99: A sweet twist on tamales served with mango salsa, fried plantains and beans.

Pastor Plantain Paradise Burrito, $15.49: A two-meal burrito filled with pineapple- and cinnamon-marinated al pastor, fried plantains, black beans, scrambled eggs, cheese and creamy chipotle crema. It’s sweet and savory and absolutely my favorite.

Orange Marinated Chicken Dinner Plate, $18.99: Evelyn’s chicken, marinated in orange juice and a secret blend of herbs and spices, is worth the trip alone — lightly sweet, with a tropical edge and seriously craveable.

Horchata, $5.49: Made from a family recipe with rice, milk, cinnamon and a lot of love.

How long in business

The restaurant opened in 2014.

Most popular dish

Pupusa de chicharron (pork and cheese pupusa).

The deals

Don Julio’s offers a 10% student discount.

The price

Prices are easy on the wallet: pupusas cost $5.25, burritos $15.49, and soft tacos $3.99. Nothing on the menu is more than $22.

The spot

Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Thursday through Tuesday; closed Wednesday. The restaurant will be closed April 27-29. 217 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-242-3160, donjulioslatingrill.com

The post Don Julio’s in Rohnert Park Serves Standout Pupusas and Salvadoran Comfort Food appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

For years, the unassuming taqueria at Montgomery and Mission was a neighborhood fixture, perfectly wedged between Rincon and Bennett Valley and just steps from Howarth Park. Lepe’s was the go-to for post-hike takeout on a Wednesday night, beloved for its simplicity and affordability. Its closure in early 2026 left a real void for locals.

Restaurateurs Hayley Cutri and Efrain Balmes felt the loss as much as anyone. Balmes, a regular after long bike rides through the park, knew the corner well. When the space became available, they saw the chance to bring back a neighborhood gathering spot, this time with a casual menu of American and Mexican comfort food. After a quick spruce-up, Parkside Eats quietly opened its doors in early April. Locals wasted no time — news spread quickly and so did the appetites.

The vibe

By late Sunday morning, as breakfast blends into brunch, the dining room and bar fill with families and couples easing into the day.

The kitchen hums with activity: chilaquiles, huevos rancheros, birria, pancakes and tres leches French toast filled with cream. Sturdy Mexican clay mugs are filled with coffee, café de olla and Mexican hot chocolate, while the bar pours mimosas and tangy-sweet jamaica.

Colorful butterfly wallpaper brightens the room and an enclosed patio sits ready for sunny days ahead. The staff is friendly, if a little stretched in these early weeks, but it’s clear Parkside Eats is in experienced hands.

Lunch brings a quieter pace, with scrambled eggs making way for burgers and burritos. By dinner, the room fills again for heartier plates: pan-roasted rosemary chicken, wild sea bass in tomato broth, baby back ribs and a rib-eye with white truffle fries.

Door closed, window opened

Parkside Eats was meant to be a second act for Cutri and Balmes, who also ran Sonoma Eats in Agua Caliente. When rising rents shuttered that spot just as Parkside opened, it became an unexpected blessing. Loyal regulars followed them north and new faces quickly filled the seats. With a small but dedicated crew — including Cutri, Balmes and new chef-partner Gerardo Reyes — the restaurant’s reputation grew fast on social media.

Chef Reyes brings serious chops from his time at Michelin-starred Auro in Napa, and it shows. Birria hash arrives neatly pressed in a ring mold; jicama salad is layered with pepitas, little gem lettuce, Tajín vinaigrette and edible flowers. The food isn’t fussy, but there’s clear attention to ingredients, flavor and presentation.

Cutri and Balmes hope to eventually reopen Sonoma Eats, with its focus on Balmes’ Oaxacan recipes intact. In the meantime, a few favorites have made the trip to Santa Rosa.

Best bets

Roasted Brussels Sprouts, $14: These sprouts had a shaky debut, but they’ve found their groove. Tender inside, crisp outside, with a drizzle of Dijon honey and a kick of chorizo.

Ahi Tuna Poke Nachos, $24: Yes, it’s a splurge, but the quality of the tuna and the bright toppings — pickled onions, cucumber, avocado — make it worth the extra dollars. Presentation is spot on.

Jicama Salad, $16: Crisp jicama triangles, orange segments, cucumber, and pineapple are layered in a wreath and topped with leafy lettuce and a Tajín vinaigrette. It’s as refreshing as it looks.

Parkside Cheeseburger, $21: I don’t hand out burger praise lightly, but this one earns it. A half-pound of house-ground Angus, fresh produce, red onions, cheddar, garlic aioli, and a pillowy brioche bun. It’s a two-hander — save the fries for after.

Baja Fish Tacos, $14: Lepe’s fish tacos set the standard, and Parkside’s version rises to the challenge. Beer-battered fish with a sweet kick of chipotle aioli — worthy of the legacy.

Cauliflower Steak, $28: I veered off my usual path for this vegetarian plate. A thick, golden slice of cauliflower sits atop creamy garlic mashed potatoes, brightened with chimichurri and pickled onions. Worth every bite — garlic breath be damned.

Chilaquiles, $16: Huevos rancheros may be the crowd favorite, but the chilaquiles with their bright, tart verde sauce are the sleeper hit. Sautéed tortilla chips, black refried beans, eggs and avocado round out the plate.

Tres Leches French Toast, $16: Sweeter than abuela’s kisses. Croissant slices get a soak in tres leches batter, fried crisp, then filled with whipped cream and berries.

Birria Hash, $22: I’m somewhere between love and obsession with this one. Birria, potatoes, and red peppers are pressed into a tidy ring for a composed plate — not the saucy birria I usually crave, but delicious all the same. Fried goat cheese balls on the side are a bold move. It’s not what you expect, but sometimes that’s the point.

The price

Prices are on par with other casual spots in town, but this is no fast food joint. Starters and salads are $12 to $16, tacos (three per order) are $14, and burgers or sandwiches (with fries or salad) run $18 to $22. Larger plates range from $26 to $28, with the rib-eye at $42. Breakfast is $14 to $21, brunch $16 to $22. There are plenty of gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan options. Taco Tuesday is an all-day affair: five tacos for $14, or two tacos and a draft beer for $10.

What to expect

Parkside Eats is already drawing crowds, so expect a wait on weekend mornings and Taco Tuesdays. Parking can be tight in the lot, but there are usually spots in back. Like any new spot, there are still a few kinks to work out. And just to clarify: Parkside Eats is not connected to Dierk’s Parkside Cafe on Santa Rosa Avenue.

Parkside Eats is located at 4323 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa. Instagram.com/meetme_parkside

The post Parkside Eats Brings American and Mexican Comfort Food To Former Santa Rosa Taqueria appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

The recently shuttered Lepe’s Taqueria, a Santa Rosa institution for nearly 30 years, will reopen early this spring as Parkside Eats, according to new owners Hayley Cutri and Efrain Balmes.

The couple, who also own Sonoma Eats in Agua Caliente, are taking a sharp left turn. Sonoma Eats is known for its Oaxacan-style cuisine, rooted in Balmes’ Mexican heritage, but Parkside Eats won’t be a taqueria or strictly Mexican. Instead, they’re rolling out what they describe as “California comfort food,” blending Mexican-influenced favorites like tacos, quesabirria and fresh guacamole, a standout at Sonoma Eats, with burgers, salads, soups, hearty appetizers and fresh juices.

“Californians love Mexican food, and the restaurant will have a lot of Mexican soul and a lot of avocados,” Cutri said, summing up their California approach to comfort cuisine. That also includes a farm-to-cocina ethos, emphasizing local and seasonal ingredients. Cutri said they hope to source from their own farm and other nearby growers. She previously worked at Sonoma Valley’s Flatbed Farm.

Parkside Eats is also a personal project for the couple, who spend time hiking at nearby Annadel State Park. After long days on the trails, they craved food that’s both hearty and healthy. Cutri said the restaurant reflects what they want to eat and what they feel the neighborhood has been missing.

The pair is also mindful of the legacy they’ve inherited. Lepe’s owner, Eduardo “Eddie” Lepe, ran the restaurant for decades. Eddie’s sudden death in 2021 left a void in the community that many still feel. His children, Bella, Diego and Matteo, kept the restaurant going for four years before deciding to close in November.

“We will continue being a family-run restaurant that warmly and graciously hosts our neighbors,” Cutri said. “We promised that to the family.”

More details on the menu and an opening date are expected in the coming weeks.

Sonoma Diner opens

The owners of Sebastopol’s Hole in the Wall Cafe (972 Gravenstein Highway S.) and Santa Rosa’s Brother’s Cafe (3135 Cleveland Ave.) have opened Sonoma Diner in Santa Rosa. The four-page all-day menu ranges from morning scrambles and omelets to burgers, sandwiches and crepes. Bigger dinner entrees like fish and chips, chicken piccata and coconut curry are also available. Best breakfast bets are the sticky-crunchy Dutch baby German pancake with caramelized apples and biscuits with mushroom gravy. 52 Mission Circle, Suite 111, Santa Rosa, 707-978-5098, sonomadinersr.com

The post Parkside Eats To Replace Lepe’s Taqueria in Santa Rosa This Spring appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

I hadn’t thought about Petaluma’s Speakeasy restaurant and its sibling music venue, The Big Easy, in a decade — until I started working on a story about Sonoma County’s best mac and cheese. Searching for candidates, Speakeasy’s lobster mac rose to the forefront of a neck-and-neck selection of gooey, melty, cheesy pasta from some of the most recognized restaurants from Cloverdale to Petaluma.

It made the cut based on my memory of the sweet lobster with cheddar, fontina, herby breadcrumbs and crumbled bacon clinging to every surface of the curved orecchiette pasta. But it also made me realize it might be time to see if Speakeasy was still as good as I remembered in its tucked-away location on Kentucky Street.

On a chilly January evening, Speakeasy’s outdoor patio didn’t feel like a good idea despite being a massive draw in warmer seasons. Inside is dark and sparsely decorated with just a few tables and a bar. Service is friendly and adept but not fawning. As early bird eaters, our only company inside was a lone diner at the bar, but tables filled up as night fell in earnest.

And that’s the point of Speakeasy, one of Petaluma’s few late-night dining options — open until 10 p.m. on weeknights and midnight on Friday and Saturday. It’s the comfort food you crave after a few cocktails: rib-sticking and classic.

You can get the Speakeasy menu with a martini at the neighboring Big Easy while listening to singer-songwriters, jazz, big band, hip-hop and electro-pop seven nights per week. Local music producer Roger Tschann owns both venues.

But this story is about the Speakeasy experience and the food crafted by chefs Jesus Ortiz and Angel Chan. It’s not overwrought cuisine but straightforward comfort food that’s impressive for being just that. Comforting.

Ortiz is a humble, behind-the-scenes cook you could find in almost any restaurant in Sonoma County. Originally from Mexico, he’s lived in Petaluma for nearly 25 years, working at Old Chicago Pizza and Brixx before joining Speakeasy seven years ago. His cooking skills weren’t bought, but hard-earned while working menial prep jobs and slowly moving his way up the line.

Ortiz isn’t out to win critical acclaim with fancy ingredients, an unstained chef coat and a publicity team. Instead, he works day after day in his well-worn whites, serving good food that makes people happy.

Ortiz and Chan, who is from the Yucatán, have introduced some traditional Mexican dishes, including carnitas, ceviche and tacos, but dishes like the very American mac and cheese, short ribs with polenta, burgers, sandwiches and grilled steak remain their most popular. Prices are incredibly reasonable, and such a relief with the ongoing sticker shock of $32 burgers and $25 salads.

The menu doesn’t change much, though specials appear from time to time, which is just fine. Occasionally, a big bowl of mac and cheese at a restaurant where nobody knows your name is the most satisfying meal of all.

Best bets

Braised Short Ribs with Blue Cheese Polenta, $24: I’ve had braised short ribs from some of the best chefs in Sonoma County, and these were — by a landslide — my favorite. Long-braised meat that’s not too fatty or lean falls apart faster than a Temu sundress. The polenta instantly raised my mood and cholesterol level, held together with more dairy than a milking barn. The blue cheese is an accent rather than a statement. The leftovers were extraordinary.

Lobster Mac and Cheese, $18: Exactly what you wish mac and cheese would be, but usually isn’t. Fontina adds creaminess to the sauce, with bits of bacon hidden about. Bowl-shaped orecchiette pasta, is perfect for holding onto breadcrumbs and cheese. My only complaint — I’m not sure the lobster adds that much to the whole thing. It would be equally delish without it. Either way, outstanding.

Tapas: Whether you make these a starter or a meal, little shared plates of papas bravas ($9) and spicy cauliflower ($14) are my favorites. Papas bravas are fried fingerling potatoes sprinkled with chili powder and served with chipotle aioli — which is how any fries should be served. Cauliflower is only a stinky carrier for sauce, in my book. This version of pan-fried florets has prickles of Anaheim pepper and salty capers that make it a joy rather than a punishment.

Tacos, $17 for three: Our favorite tacos were vegetarian and delicious. Soft corn tacos are piled with cabbage slaw, avocado puree and parsley, with a choice of meat or vegetables, but jackfruit smothered in sweet-sour barbecue sauce (a pulled pork dupe) and fried plantain with coconut were our top picks.

Fried Chicken, $23: If a TV dinner were delicious, this is what it would be. Crispy boneless chicken breasts, perfectly smooth mashed potatoes and flavorful gravy take me to a happy place sitting on the sofa, watching the Muppets and feeling like all is right with the world. If only there were a little square of overcooked apple pie.

Speakeasy Burger, $16: A simple, good burger served on a smushy brioche bun and all the fixings. Chipotle aioli gives it an added zing. Nothing complicated, nothing showy, just tasty.

Cheesecake, $7: Made in-house, flavors change with the chef’s whims. It’s more of a classic cheesecake that’s moist, fluffy and not overly sweet atop a buttery graham cracker crust. It’s not a mile-high Cheesecake Factory style, but a more modest grandma-style.

Speakeasy is open from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and until midnight on Friday and Saturday. Brunch begins at 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. 139 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. 707-776-4631, speakeasypetaluma.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The post Speakeasy Serves Late Night Comfort Food in Petaluma appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Sinking forks and spoons into Boiling Bowl’s communal hot pot is like a fishing expedition — you never quite know what you’ll pull up.

On a recent visit, our trio of diners ordered two stew pots furiously burbling away at the table. They were filled perilously close to the brim with broth, mussels, fish balls, tiny sausages, tofu, corn, artificial crab, strips of beef and a surprising number of unidentifiable items happily bobbing at the surface above flames licking at the bottom of the pot. Steam enveloped us like a cocoon. On a chilly winter evening, it was a comforting moment of sharing among friends.

Boiling Bowl (500 Mission Blvd., Suite E, Santa Rosa) combines traditional Chinese American cuisine, made-to-order dim sum, sizzling platters and the conviviality of shared hot pots.

It’s a no-frills, family-friendly spot with an epic menu that ranges from orange chicken, broccoli beef and walnut prawns to sizzling clay pot seafood bowls, shumai (steamed shrimp and pork dumplings), barbecue pork buns and shareable hot pots, including our favorites, Cheesy Milk and Beef (both $23.99).

The cheesy milk version has a watery soy milk broth studded with mushrooms, tofu, fish tofu (a fried fish paste), eggs, seafood, lotus root, fish fillets and shredded cheese.
The beef version is a heartier meat broth with thinly sliced strips of beef mingling with corn, tomatoes, mussels, mini sausages and other goodies. It’s a lot of food, and each hot pot can easily feed two people.

Vegetarian, seafood, Japanese miso broth and lamb hot pots are also available, from mild to “flaming hot” spice levels, if you’re adventurous.

While ramen is readily available in Sonoma County, hot pots can be a rare find, with only a handful in the region. (Fantasy restaurant in Petaluma, 1520 E. Washington St., has DIY hot pots that can be cooked at the table, shabu-shabu style).

Bamboo steamers of dim sum take roughly 20 minutes to prepare, so order it when you sit down. Boiling Bowl is open daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch and 4-9 p.m. for dinner. Delivery and pickup are available. boilingbowlca.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The post Dive Into a Hard-To-Find Chinese Comfort Food at Santa Rosa’s Boiling Bowl appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Scraping the last re-microwaved, DoorDashed mac and cheese from my plate on a blustery winter morning, comfort food is top of mind. The nights are long, the world is complicated and my chances of a mistletoe smooch are looking slim.

Whatever your woes, there’s no shortage of reasons to power-nosh on mashed potatoes and gravy, steaming soups, or piles of nachos washed down with an espresso martini or three. Fortunately, there are plenty of delightful dishes in Sonoma County to boost your morale. So gather with friends and family around the table for all the carbs and butter you want. Swimsuit season is months away. And that’s something to smile about.

Here are some favorite indulgences of mine.

Soup, Chad’s Soup Shack

The lineup from chef Chad Holmes constantly evolves, but a recent farm market menu included roasted corn and shrimp chowder, split pea and ham, chicken green chili stew, vegetarian mushroom bisque and lemon chicken bone broth — not to mention a brisket grilled cheese sandwich. Think of it as your reward for those cold market mornings. Find him at Santa Rosa Community and Petaluma Eastside Farmer’s Markets. chadssoupshack.com

Loaded Baked Potato, Stark’s Steak & Seafood

Before viral Frappuccinos or frozen yogurt, the baked potato (and offspring, potato skins) ruled supreme in almost every mall food court in America. I vote to bring back the humble spud, covered with sour cream, cheese, bacon, chives and extra butter. Stark’s goes one step further, classing the whole thing up with roasted broccolini, crème fraîche and smoked cheddar fondue. 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100, starkrestaurants.com

Currywurst, Tisza Bistro

Housemade bratwurst, sliced into pieces and laid over beer-battered fries and caramelized onions with a curry-spiked ketchup. It’s a mess but in the very best way. 165 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-291-5193, tiszabistro.com

Mac and cheese, SoCo MacHaus

An alter-ego of Franchettis’ Gasthaus, this pickup and delivery-only mac and cheese menu features heaping helpings of mac and cheese gussied up with fried chicken, a medley of mushrooms, bacon or hot dogs. Righteous. Delivery to Santa Rosa area only. Find it on doordash.com or socomachaus.com

Quesabirria, Mi Ranchito

Taking the win for its lacy bits of caramelized cheese, butter-soft meat and grill-kissed quesabirria that arrive with a steaming cup of consommé is humble Mi Ranchito. The real clincher? Cozy indoor seating. Taco trucks are great and all, but sitting on a curb with a Styrofoam plate is less than ideal in winter. 90 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa, 707-978-2295, miranchitomexicancuisine.com

Ramen, The Taste of Tea

Japanese comfort food is the name of the game here. One of chef Nez Tokugawa’s signatures is Miso Ramen ($14), made with vegan kombu broth — a traditional ramen base. Topped with barbecue pork, a shoyu-marinated egg, bamboo shoots and nori, it’s a bowl of warmth and deeply satisfying flavor. 109 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1995, thetasteoftea.com

Giant cinnamon roll, Wild Flour Bread

I watched a first-timer order this legendary cinnamon roll with a knowing smile. The size of a small hubcap, these gooey, sticky morning buns will hit your gut like a freight train to Pastry Town. I usually eat half in the car and half — with unsalted butter — when I get home. Plus, it’s a lovely ride, and their gardens, even in winter, are worth a walk-through. 140 Bohemian Highway, Freestone, 707-874-2938, wildflourbread.com

Mediterranean Platter, East West Cafe

I could eat beet hummus for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sweet, earthy and a perfect pairing with piping hot, crispy falafel bites. The platter also includes regular hummus, baba ganoush, stuffed grape leaves, tabbouleh and pita. 557 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-6142, eastwestcafesantarosa.com

French fries, Jackson’s Bar and Oven

These fries are the gold standard. Not only are they imbued with truffle oil, but they come with a sprinkle of Pecorino Romano cheese and a side of tart lemon aioli. Plan to order extra aioli if you’re sharing (though we recommend keeping them all to yourself). 135 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-6900, jacksonsbarandoven.com

Nachos, La Rosa Tequileria

Maybe it is the tequila talking, but a pile of warm tortilla chips smothered in melted cheese with all the toppings (guacamole, crema, refried beans, salsa fresca and jalapeños) reaches heavenly heights with a crown of carnitas. 500 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-3663, larosasantarosa.com

Empanadas, Vinoma

By now, most folks know that this gas station spot in west Rohnert Park is worth a trip for its California-meets-Argentina empanadas. Like doughnuts, one is never enough, so try a few, including the traditional beef with Spanish olives, steak and cheese, al pastor and vegetarian corn in creamy nutmeg sauce. 5085 Redwood Drive, Rohnert Park, 707-536-9215, vinoma.net

Swedish Meatballs, Stockhome

A neighborhood hub for unfussy, family-friendly Turkish and Mediterranean street food found in Sweden’s larger cities, plus homey classics like Swedish meatballs, pickled herring and Swedish pancakes on the menu — all of it with a few nods to California as well. The meatballs, swimming in gravy and nestled against a pile of mashed potatoes with lingonberry jam on the side, are the grown-up version of the Ikea classic. 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511, stockhomerestaurant.com

Grilled Cheese and Tomato Soup, Red Grape

The stuff your mom made on sick days, but without being burnt on one side and with clumps in the canned soup. Here, the tomato basil soup is smooth as silk, and the sandwich has a Parmesan crust with sharp white cheddar melted in the middle. 529 First St., Sonoma, 707-996-4103, theredgrape.com

Tuna Sandwich, D’s Diner

Always a top choice when I’m feeling the tug of a toasted tuna sandwich. It’s not fancy, but the tuna is fresh, the cheese is perfectly melted and the plain old white bread is toasted. 7260 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-829-8080; 750 Stony Point Road, Suite A-190, Santa Rosa, 707-843-3041

Croque Monsieur, Maison Porcella

Chef Marc-Henri Jean-Baptiste’s luxurious pâté, sausages and Parisian-style ham are the draw of this cozy café and wine bar, but if you’re willing to wait a minute, you can get a piping hot croque that makes all other croques seem pitiful. This grand ham and cheese sandwich includes creamy béchamel, Gruyere cheese, housemade milk bread and thin slices of Jean-Baptiste’s award-winning ham. 8499 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 114, Windsor, 707-955-5611, maisonporcella.com

European Drinking Chocolate, Sonoma Chocolatiers & Tea House

Not even in the same universe as Swiss Miss. Made with chocolate shavings and hot milk (plus chili and almond extract optional), it’s a liquid candy bar made for sipping slowly and paging through Proust on a rainy day. 6988 McKinley St., Sebastopol, 707-829-1181, sonomachocolatiers.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The post These Are the Best Local Comfort Dishes for Winter Blues appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Whenever you’re down and out, sick and tired, or simply missing home, comfort food is what picks up the pieces of our lives. Some of us crave mashed potatoes and gravy, others yearn for a bowl of posole or nonna’s ravioli. Whatever makes you feel all warm and cozy inside, we’ve probably found it at a Sonoma County restaurant. Click through the above gallery for details.

Did we miss your fave? Let us know in the comments below.

The post Best Restaurants for Comfort Food in Sonoma County 2020 appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Whenever you’re down and out, sick and tired, too pooped to party or simply missing home, comfort food is what picks up the pieces of our lives. Some of us crave mashed potatoes and gravy, others yearn for a bowl of posole or nonna’s ravioli. Whatever makes you feel all warm and cozy inside, we’ve probably found it at a Sonoma County restaurant.

Did we miss your fave? Let us know in the comments below.

The post Best Restaurants for Comfort Food in Sonoma County appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Hidden in the suburban camouflage of northwest Sebastopol is a blip of a restaurant you’ve probably never noticed. Perched on a concrete jetty at the intersection of Highway 116 and Covert Lane in the Fiesta Market Center is Fandee’s Restaurant. You may have missed it behind the bank ATM and jigsaw puzzle of parking spots.

There’s limited signage other than a very necessary placard reading “Main Entrance” next to the front door. Clearly, I’m not the first person to pull on a service door or walk all the way around the building looking for a way into Fandee’s.

Put on your culinary pith helmet and find a path, because this not-especially-noticable diner is a rare find. A longtime favorite of locals, this neighborhood diner has always been good, but a recent menu overhaul has grabbed the attention of diners who insisted I check it out again.

With prices between $7 and $24 (the sweet spot is around $13) Fandee’s isn’t trying to be a palace of haute cuisine. It’s creative comfort food that doesn’t have to be as good as it is. Fandee’s is about scratch-made cabernet sauces and tiramisu, salmon roulade with lentils in a creamy pan sauce and juicy fried chicken with hand-cut Kennebec fries.

Owner Tarek Alrehani, 33, is as subdued as his restaurant. A native of Jordan, the soft-spoken cook came to California to work at his uncles’ diner, Adel’s at age 17. Learning the ropes of all-day dining, from pancakes to steak dinners, he set out on his own when the former Farmhouse diner (not to be confused with the Farmhouse Inn) closed in 2013.

After a six-month remodel, he renamed the diner in honor of his grandfather, Fandee. Spending his younger years on a Jordanian farm with his grandparents, he learned the value of eating fresh food grown on the property. Milk, he says, was purchased from Bedouins and made into cheese. The rest was from the gardens.

And while there are a handful of Middle Eastern dishes inspired by his family — the hummus on the mezze plate is his mother’s recipe — and there is an eggplant shakshuka on the breakfast menu, the menu is mostly all-American.

Alrehani works out each recipe, focusing on using fresh, local ingredients to make the food he and his family would want.

“We know how much a family with two kids can afford,” said Alrehani. “But we want to cook it like I’d cook at home, preparing each plate. This is what I want for my family,” he said.

Best Bets

Portions are generous (not ridiculous), so prepare to bring an appetite and go home with leftovers.

Salmon Tournade with Lentils ($20): The menu description does no justice to this dish. A filet of salmon is tied into a round disc, pan fried and set atop creamy lentils in a cast iron skillet. The green lentils have give, but don’t turn to mush, swimming in the tart cream sauce. The bite of peppery arugula completes the power-packed punch of flavor.

Fried Chicken ($17): So many chefs try way too hard to get this simple dish right. Brined in lemon and honey and pressure cooked with a light crust, it’s crispy, light and juicier than a summer peach.

Corn Fritters ($7): Pops of sweet yellow corn stud a lightly spiced jalapeño and cheddar batter. Hush puppies look hang dog next to these corn balls.

French Onion Gratinée ($7): This deceptively simple savory-sweet stew is actually a complicated dance of long-caramelized onions and beef broth with a whisper of wine and a sliver of bread below a bubbling cape of Gruyere cheese. This isn’t exactly that, but it’s surprisingly excellent and grandmotherly in its warmth.

Mediterranean Mezze ($10): A true Mediterranean platter with warmed pita bread, Kalamata olives, briney Feta cheese and a creamy hummus from Tarek’s mother’s recipe.

Tiramisu ($7): Rich mascarpone cream with plenty of strong coffee. Less sugar makes it easy to eat the whole piece.

Ribeye Steak with cabernet reduction sauce, sour cream mashed potatoes ($24): A bronto-sized slab that’s cooked perfectly. Mashed potatoes are other-worldly.

Other great bites

Slyders ($12) with balsamic onion jam, cheddar and whole grain mustard; Chicken citrus salad ($13) with chicken breast, oranges, cranberries, blue cheese and citrus vinaigrette; Pork chop with honey mustard glaze, pear chutney and smashed potatoes ($18).

Overall: Surprisingly excellent cafe cuisine at a family-friendly diner makes this neighborhood spot a special find.

Open daily from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. for breakfast, lunch and dinner, 7824 Covert Lane, Sebastopol, 707) 829-2642, fandeesrestaurant.com.

The post Secret Sebastopol Diner is a Culinary Gem appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Lifestyle guru Oprah Winfrey has selected Guerneville’s Big Bottom Market biscuits for her annual holiday shopping guide “Favorite Things,” released Thursday by O, The Oprah Magazine. 

“Biscuits and I go way back,” Winfrey says in her notes on the Big Bottom product, a gift box containing the mix and locally sourced, organic orange-blossom honey. “These bake up moist yet crumbly, taste homemade though they’re from a mix, and are heavenly served with this honey.”

At Sonoma Magazine, we have been fans of the Big Bottom biscuits since day one… Read what we wrote about them earlier this year:

Our Favorites: Guerneville’s Big Bottom Biscuits

If we could celebrate our love for the biscuits at Big Bottom Market in an interpretive dance we would, but seeing how this is print, we’ll just tell you that they’re worth the trip to Guerneville.

Fluffy, yummy and just a hint of sweetness makes these so awesome — in a California way. Because no self-respecting Southerner would do what comes next. The new Biscuit Bar features these glutenous little pillows with pulled pork, mascarpone and honey, berries and whipped cream or (our fave) smoked salmon and pickled onions. Delish.

The focus on biscuits is just part of the update that co-owners Crista Luedtke, Kate Larkin and Michael Volpatt have given the gourmet general store just in time for summer. They’re adding a new culinary director (Cole Mayfield), along with a Muffuletta Sammie (hello, NOLA), bbq pulled pork sandwich and a mezze plate. Market faves like the Hangover, Parson Jones, soups and salads will remain, along with frozen biscuits to take home and cook.

FYI:  New Yorkers are about to get a taste of BB’s biscuitry, when they open a biscuit bar at Osteria Cotta on Columbus Ave. A little bit of SoCo in NYC ain’t a bad thing.

16228 Main St, Guerneville, bigbottommarket.com.

The post Love Big Bottom Market’s Biscuits? So Does Oprah appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.