Chef Rob Larman has brought back his famous barbecue from noon to 7 p.m. each Saturday and Sunday at Il Fuoco restaurant.

The longtime chef of Cochon Volant BBQ will serve brisket, pork shoulder, baby back ribs by the pound, barbecue sandwiches, coleslaw and baked ranch beans throughout the weekend.

“People were really missing the ‘que,” said Larman.

The pop-up is held in a tent behind Il Fuoco, where Larman has been serving woodfired pizzas and burgers since 2021.

Il Fuoco, 18350 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma. facebook.com/CochonVolantBBQ

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

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Just before 11 a.m. on a hazy spring Friday, a line is forming outside A&M BBQ’s modest storefront just off Sebastopol’s South Main Street.

A man sits patiently in his truck. Two others perch on a ledge beneath the restaurant’s plate-glass windows. Every few minutes, a few more people join the queue as co-owners Kris Austin and Marvin McKinzy (McKinzy has since left the partnership) hustle inside, making final preparations for their 11:30 a.m. opening.

Austin is always mindful of the growing line, which will swell exponentially around noon, but there’s no fevered rushing. The duo has been up since 5 a.m., minding the meats and prepping sides — long-simmered collard greens, sweet baked beans, jalapeño cornbread and coleslaw. With their oft-repeated mantra of “low and slow” — as in low heat and slow cooking — they are efficient, not frantic.

At 11:15 a.m., Austin takes the time to cut a few slices of tri-tip for the morning’s eager beavers, heading outside with a paper plate to distribute a sneak preview of the day’s offerings. If time allows, they’ll continue offering samples, rallying the crowd in barbecue bliss.

Both pitmasters in their own right, Austin (of Austin’s BBQ) and McKinzy (of Marvin’s BBQ) joined forces to create A&M this spring (which is not named for the Texas university, but for their first initials). But you’d be forgiven for the mistake because their wood-smoked barbecued meats are Lone Star-inspired, with a seasoned dry rub instead of slathered with sauce. All the better to see the perfect pink smoke rings around the edge of the brisket, tri-tip and pork ribs, the bark of the rub and lacy bits of fat.

Covering the whole thing with sauce would be a shame, so don’t. A little dip or two is fine, but great barbecue doesn’t need to be hidden beneath a blanket of ketchup because the smoke does the real work when it comes to flavor.

By noon, a firetruck had come and gone, along with several police officers. All departed with a wave and sticky fingers rather than an arrest, and one lucky officer was enlisted to hand out brisket samples while waiting for his lunch. (At Marvin’s BBQ, McKinzy built a loyal law enforcement following, who competed to see who can eat the most barbecue. Firefighters tend to win.)

Behind the counter, McKinzy, Austin and two employees cut, weigh and plate tender brisket, peppery tri-tip, hot links, pork ribs, barbecued chicken and pulled pork. It’s now sold by weight rather than portion. They’re all great, but the thinly sliced brisket makes my knees weak. Even more so with a few ends thrown in.

The line continues to grow, and you can see the respect Austin and McKinzy have for each other. Both built their businesses independently but met through social media and started hanging out. When McKinzy parted ways with a former business partner, the time seemed right for a merger. They’re like salt and pepper — both good on their own but better together.

The Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays that A&M is open go by quickly, and depending on the crowd, they may sell out by 2 p.m. or even earlier. Some days, they go a little longer. But once the meat is done for the day, it’s done. The restaurant features picnic tables and high-op seating with convenient paper towel holders (for those messy moments).

“People come in at 5 p.m. and are upset that we’ve sold out. But I tell them I’ve been up since 5 a.m.,” Austin said. The shop closes, and work for the next day begins.

So, if you’re serious about getting some of Austin and McKinzy’s slow- and low-cooked meats, there’s only one way to guarantee you’re going home with greasy fingers and a full belly — get in line early and wait.

Best bets at A&M BBQ

Brisket ($38/lb.): I’m a Texas BBQ girl, so I’ll always be team brisket. This is as good as I’ve ever had, with tender meat and a Goldilocks fat ratio — not too much, not too little. Seasoning is simple with just salt, pepper, garlic and onion powder — a required part of any order. We ordered a half-pound, which was plenty when paired with sides.

Tri-Tip ($28/lb.): This is McKinzy’s specialty, and it has a powerful blend of uniquely California-inspired spices. Excellent.

Pork Spare Ribs ($30/lb.): You shouldn’t need teeth to eat ribs, and I’ll die on that hill. A good rib falls off the bone with the slightest pressure and shouldn’t require you to gnaw on it. I mean, you can gnaw on the bone, but that’s your call. These ribs fit the denture-approved bill with change to spare.

Pulled Pork ($24/lb.): Excellent, but if you’re putting it on a sandwich with barbecue sauce (which is your right), it kind of misses the point. But I’m not turning it down.

BBQ Chicken ($15/half, $30/whole): Somehow, they keep this chicken super moist, which is some sort of witchcraft because barbecue chicken is never moist.

Collard Greens, $5.50: Perfectly cooked to a soft but toothy consistency. My Atlanta-raised friend said they were perfect. I’m a little funny about them requiring being cooked in bacon or ham hocks, and this version had turkey bacon. 8.5/10 for me.

Baked Beans ($5.50): These are perfectly cooked, sweet as honey, real-deal beans. I’m absolutely in love.

A&M BBQ is hiring a dessert chef and promises to have banana pudding soon. McKinzy also said something about cheesecake, but I stopped listening after the banana pudding. Beer and wine are also in the works.

495 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-799-2892. Open 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

The post A&M BBQ Is the Best Southern-Style Barbecue in Sonoma County appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

You don’t need to travel to Texas for awesome southern barbecue, because it’s right in our backyard. Hot summer weather is the siren call for some smoked meats, potato salad and a side of sauce. Check out our gallery to discover the best barbecue joints the county has to offer for the most devout meat-lovers.

The post The Best BBQ Restaurants in Sonoma County appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Last summer, my daughter had a single request for her first dinner back at home from wilderness camping: A juicy mac and cheese hamburger from the Cheesecake Factory.

Don’t judge, because sinking her teeth into the juicy tower of fried macaroni, beef, tomatoes and lettuce became a delicious daydream over the miles of trail. Three weeks of eating mostly summer sausage, peanut butter and tortillas in the drizzle of the Olympic Peninsula can do strange things to a person. Day after day, she came closer to that hamburger. It was a beefy beacon of all that is good in civilization.

Sense memories of food evoke powerful emotions. Smelling cinnamon can transport us to grandma’s kitchen table, eating warm apple pie. Spending 20 years looking for a mozzarella that holds a curd to the stuff you used to get in Brooklyn? Totally reasonable. Finding emotional closure in a piece of fried chicken? At Sweet T’s you can.

One of several Santa Rosa restaurants demolished in the 2017 wildfires, Sweet T’s quickly became a symbol of hope as owners Dennis and Ann Tussey began working on their new Windsor location at the Lakewood Village shopping center. Fans watched as construction commenced, a kitchen was built and Pitmaster George Ah Chin fired up the smoker for the first time.

Now, as friends and Fountaingrove neighbors congregate at the rebuilt restaurant, eating ribs and toasting to rebuilt homes, it’s become a symbol of healing.

But is the food as good as everyone remembers it?

The ribs sure as sugar are. The cocktails are. The hush puppies and mashed potatoes? Yup. The fried chicken? Wonder-fowl.

Like our memories, not everything can be perfect. Rebuilding takes time, and we’re all still finding our new normal.

As the sweet smell of wood smoke drifts through the parking lot like a siren call, noses sniff the air toward the long-cooked slabs of meat scenting each breeze. It’s a sense memory we’ve long missed enjoying. It’s the smell of Sweet T’s — and so many fire survivors– finally coming home again.

Best Bets
From the Smoker, Ribs: These are the Goldilocks pork ribs we’ve been seeking for years. Yielding without falling apart, smoky without being bitter, soft with a nice chew. You can see the craft in a perfect pink smoke ring around all of Sweet T’s smoked meats. Ribs done absolutely right.

Smoker Plates: Beef Brisket is so tender, it’s almost hard to get it on a fork. We like asking for a mix of meats, because the pulled chicken and pulled pork are also worth trying.

Memphis BBQ Nachos, $8/$14: House made white cheese sauce is the secret to this tasty mess of tortilla chips with your choice of smoked meat with a barbecue sauce drizzle and pickled jalapeños.
Smoky, creamy, sweet and ridiculously good, they’re a crowd pleaser so order enough for the table.

Crispy Brussels Sprouts, $9: People who don’t like Brussels just haven’t had them cooked right. These roasty, crispy, salty little critters will turn even the biggest sprout haters into converts. Dipped in garlic lemon aioli, they’re even better.

Hush Puppies, $8: Required. Slather with honey butter at will.

Rib Salad, $16: Get the best of both worlds with a meaty pile of veggies. Ribs are pulled from the bone, tossed in vinaigrette and added to tasty mixed greens, spinach, cucumber, avocado and blue cheese.

Cajun Shrimp Gumbo, $19: Louisiana-style with shrimp, smoked chicken, andouille sausage, veggies and rice. It’s far lighter in color and flavor than one might expect from a traditional gumbo, but there’s still plenty of rich, smoky flavor. Though the green pepper is a little forward in this dish, overall, gumbo lovers say it’s the perfect stew.

Shrimp N’ Grits, $21: Everyone has an opinion about grits in the South, and pretty much no one agrees on what makes a perfect batch. Sweet T’s makes’em almost perfect, with plenty of creamy, cheesy, buttery goodness.Though we like ours just a squeak softer, topping them with sweet corn, house-made tasso ham and shrimp gravy makes them down-home-tastic. Southern Fried Chicken, $24: Though it takes about 20 minutes for this dish, the wait is worth it. A thin, crispy shell keeps the chicken moist, steamy and tender.

Like the ribs, this chicken is extra special and extra worth ordering. Served with the world’s best mashed potatoes (with just a hint of garlic), slaw and a biscuit.

Sides: Like any southern restaurant worth its grits, sides are what really make the meal. Sure, they’re mostly a lovely shade of beige — from mashed potatoes to creamed corn, mac ‘n cheese, French fries and potato salad. Skip the rainbow of veggies for a moment (unless you’re hankering for some okra or braised greens) and turn up your comfort-food-o-meter to eleven.

Key Lime Pie, $6: Another signature dish, this creamy, tart pie is a refreshing belly bomber. Take a slice to go. Want to drink your dessert? The Key Lime Pie Martini comes with a graham cracker rim and tastes every bit as tasty.

Libations
Red-Headed Mule, $11: A low-proof cocktail that’s dangerously refreshing and addictive. Jardesca Red Aperitif is a quintessentially Californian fortified red wine mixed with botanicals like cardamom, ginger and tangerine. Mixed with ginger, lemon and soda it’s a refreshing, lightly alcoholic sipper.

Texas Margarita, $13: It’s a margarita on the rocks with a pop of cayenne.

George Peach Martini, $13: The only fruit martini that I’d actually drink without shame. Made with peach vodka, peach puree and sparkling wine, it’s like drinking a fresh peach instead of eating a bag of peach-flavored candy.

Sweet T’s is at 9098 Brooks Road S, Windsor, 707-687-5185, sweettssouthern.com. Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

The post Sweet T’s Opens in Windsor: Welcome Home appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

The last thing the world needs is another chef re-interpreting mac and cheese.

Thankfully, as Butcher Crown Roadhouse’s Christofer Gutierrez was pondering how to present pasta in a cheesy Béchamel sauce, a very different inspiration struck. An ode to his mom’s affection for butternut squash became the restaurant’s ember-roasted plug of a gourd stuffed with goat cheese and spiced pepitas in a pool of sweet carrot puree.

Whether it’s your thing or not, Calabaza Rellena ($12.50) knows what it is. With sweet, earthy, spicy, creamy, spicy flavors packed into a single plate, it’s an adventure in every forkful. After struggling through the menus of several new restaurants still looking for their lodestar, it was the much-needed inspiration I’d been seeking.

Let’s just say this review may have started very differently were it not for that butternut squash, because it set the stage for a seriously impressive meal at the fledgling eatery. Focused on burgers, tacos, and Latin-inspired barbecue, Butcher Crown Roadhouse is a collaboration between owner Pete Schnell and Gutierrez that has barbecued meat and vegetables at its core but takes flavor cues from Mexico, Cuba, South America, Latin America and traditional barbecue joints closer to home.

At the back of the remodeled Nopalito restaurant on Bodega Avenue is a smoker that Gutierrez uses to add flavor to more than just his squash. Standing on the patio, the young chef who cut his teeth at Brewsters in Petaluma checks the apples that have gone into the smoker earlier. They turn soft, pliable and a bit wrinkled in preparation for one of the most comforting desserts I’ve ever had, brown butter caramel, a fresh funnel cake and vanilla whipped cream with the smoky, soft apple as the star.

The menu changes up, and the much-talked-about Piri Piri chicken has already left the menu (sadly), but Cochinita Pibil Tacos ($11.50), a brisket burger-and-fries dish smothered in cheese and roasted chili salsa are standards. Most of the meats are smoked for 16 to 18 hours concentrating maximum flavor into the fall-off-the-bone meat.

The kitchen uses plenty of local ingredients, smokes in-house and makes fresh tortillas with a combination of flour and corn that bring the best to their slightly irregular shape and perfect thickness.

The restaurant has been transformed into a charming roadhouse with a small beer garden in back for warmer days and nights.

Expect to see new dishes as the seasons and ingredients change, but know that I will never support mac and cheese on the menu because there are too many other dishes for Gutierrez to explore. The kitchen is taking chances on flavors that pay homage to familiar dishes but push past the expected into something utterly delightful. Not every dish perfectly hits the mark — the rice and beans seem a bit of an afterthought — but we’re willing to overlook a few missteps for the joy of tasting dishes with a clear point of view.

And for that, I am even more grateful, because honestly, I can’t take any more fancy mac and cheese.

Best Bets

Papas Fritas, $11.50: It’s literally a hot mess of crispy Kennebec fries, Thistle Meats chorizo, roasted poblano salsa, a truckload of cheddar and jack cheese and cilantro aioli. Think nachos, but with french fries instead as the flavor delivery method instead of chips. There’s a sweet tingle from the chorizo and salsa, but creamy aioli and gooey cheese keep anyone with a mouth from being able to stop cramming these into their face until the dish is licked clean.

Calabaza Rellena, $12.50: One of the biggest rages of the past two years was the Rainbow Explosion cake. When cut, it revealed a hollow center filled with rainbow-colored hard candy that rolled out on the floor in handfuls, yay! Cutting into a hollowed out roasted butternut squash (calabeza) gives the same awe-inspiring effect, with warm goat cheese, poblano peppers and spiced pumpkin seeds tumbling from the inside onto a pool of sweet carrot puree and chili oil. Sweet, nutty squash collapses into tart cheese and earthy peppers creating a dish that’s a surprise from start to finish. Game changer.

Remolacha, $12: The Steven Tyler of vegetable dishes isn’t a looker, but leaves you breathless in its presence. Smoked beets meet sweet chili cream, a splash of chili oil, and tart navel oranges. Hidden in the depths of the bowl are Marcona almonds and roasted poblanos. It hits all the notes, from bright citrus to a smoky bass line.

Brisket Enchiladas with Molé, $16: A weekend-only dish with a history. Slow-braised brisket is rolled into handmade corn and flour tortillas topped with cheese and Gutierrez’s pumpkin mole. He’s been brewing up this batch, much like a sourdough starter since opening in October. Each week as he uses it up he adds more, giving it an increasingly complex flavor. Our only gripe — we wish there was more. Sauces are clearly a strength on all of the dishes, but this is especially good.

Ember-Roasted Apple, $7.50: Save plenty of room for dessert, because the taste of a smoked apple isn’t soon forgotten. A base of brown butter caramel supports a fresh funnel cake, chunks of sweet ember-roasted apple, more caramel and a dollop of sweet vanilla whipped cream. Ever so much better than chocolate lava cakes.

Details: Butcher Crown Roadhouse, 1905 Bodega Ave., Petaluma, 707-559-3735, butchercrown.com. Open Wednesday through Sunday. Dinner 5-9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

The post Inspired by Fire: Petaluma’s Butcher Crown Roadhouse appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Just two hours earlier and I’d have been witness to an entire goat splayed over an impromptu pit of bricks and coals at Brewster’s Beer Garden. This ancient style of cooking, using a metal cross, isn’t a sight for everyone, but cooking “asado al palo” —literally meaning barbecued on a spit” — is a Spanish tradition that makes for some of the tastiest grilled meats you’ll ever have.

This is serious pit master kinda stuff, and a far cry from the kind of cooking Chris Beerman, who heads the kitchen at Petaluma’s Brewster’s Beer Garden, was doing at the haute San Francisco restaurant Boulevard, where tweezers rather than Volkswagon-sized barbecues, were the norm.

But at this 350-seat outdoor beer garden in the heart of downtown Petaluma, he’s clearly in his element, frequently roasting entire beasts for the restaurant’s impressive barbecue dishes. Ranging from special goat tacos prepared for Cinco de Mayo, to wet-mopped chopped “whole hog” and smoked lamb, ‘que has clearly become Beerman’s culinary jam since moving from San Francisco.

Having tasted some of the very best — and very worst — barbecue that Sonoma County has to offer, I give Brewster’s high marks for flavor and technique. When it’s been a good long while since we’ve had a barbecued rib that actually fell off the bone without the use of a knife/hacksaw/gnawing, Brewster’s was a welcome relief; with smokey, saucy pork that acquiesces like a Georgia peach in August. As not to create a civil war among ‘que-thusiasts, Beerman makes a solid Texas-style beef brisket, St. Louis style pork ribs and even smoked Korean short ribs.

And even though there are also smoked beets, smoked wings, smoky pork belly, a smoky mezcal cocktail and smoked tea leaves, don’t bank on Brewster’s just being a barbecue spot.

Beerman, who was also exec chef at SF diner Citizens Band and donut-mecca, Pinkie’s Bakery, puts both skillsets to work making modern comfort classics that include his signature onion ring-topped mac and cheese, fried chicken sandwich and chocolate brownie sundae.

“You should come see our garden sometime,” he says, between running back to the open kitchen and a smoker with a perfectly lacquered ham hock he occasionally peeks at. At his Petaluma home, he’s growing some of the restaurant’s produce, while sourcing the rest of the menu from local farms, ranches and producers including Filigree Farms, Alchemist Farms, Marin Sun Farms, Nicasio Valley, Stemple Ranch and the darlings-of-the-moment, CHEVOO goat cheese made with Aleppo-Urfa chili and lemon.

The infused olive oil chevre stars in the smoked beet salad ($11), with frisse, mustard greens and walnuts, with the olive oil also serving as an ingredient in the dressing. A must order.

Other favorites

Pork Belly with Cheese Curds: What could be a hot mess on a plate comes with two large pieces of crispy belly, Romesco sauce and fluffy Beecher’s Cheese curds. The snap peas on the bottom serve as a tasty foil to all the decadence.

Fried Chicken Sando ($14): The best fried-chicken sandwich, probably ever. Crispy-yet-juicy chicken, slab bacon, melty goat cheddar, garlic mayo, Della Fattoria bun. Eat quickly so as not to require sharing.

Beer cocktails: On a hot day, there’s just about nothing tastier than a beer. But add, say, pear cider to a crisp pale ale ($7, Pear Pressure) or a nitro cold brew to coconut porter ($9, Surf Bro) and you’ve got an afternoon made for bocce and bluegrass (both of which are featured at the sprawling garden).

Cocktail cocktails: Seasonal cocktails with a side of obsession. Beverage director Alfie Turnshek can talk for hours about how he infuses buttered popcorn into rum for his “Cineplex” ($9), which is a take on rum and Coke with a movie theme. Or the mole bitters, made with chocolate and cinnamon in the Petaloma ($10), made with tequila, mezcal, grapefruit and lemon-lime soda. Big city cocktails with a small town prices (nothing over $10). There’s also a huge selection of craft beers on draft from near and far, including Anderson Valley, Henhouse, 101 North and Bear Republic.

Brownie Sundae: Usually strictly kid-stuff, this grown up version has Valrohna chocolate, Three Twins ice cream, graham crumbles and more chocolate on top. Doesn’t have to be nearly this delicious, but is.

If you go

The space is immense, with a plethora of picnic-style tables. Great for a group, or if you’re interested in being social. A bocce court for grown-ups and a kids’ area to let the tots go nuts. Brunch served on Saturday and Sunday. Abbreviated lunch menu starts at 11:30 a.m. and goes until 5 p.m when the larger dinner menu emerges. Kids menu with chicken fingers and other tasty kid grub. Dogs welcome. Weekly music events Friday through Sunday regularly; every other Thursday is Bluegrass and Bourbon.

Know that: This busy restaurant can get crowded, and service can range from enthusiastic to dismissive depending on the time of day and staffing. Plating can also get a little haphazard when the kitchen is really humming. Parking can also get tight, but there are several overflow lots. Finding the restaurant is tricky, since there’s not much signage from the street.

Overall: Brewster’s Beer Garden is a new go-to beer garden with room for the whole family (including Rover), great barbecue and a top-shelf chef. Reasonably priced cocktails and plenty on draft make it doubly delicious.

229 Water St. North, Petaluma, 707-981-8330, brewstersbeergarden.com. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 11:30 to 10p.m., midnight on Friday and Saturday.

The post Cue the ‘Que: It’s Always Beer Garden Season at Brewsters in Petaluma appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

From Michelin nods to what locals are embracing, here are 6 Sonoma restaurants you’ll want to try this fall. 

KINSmoke

Look for lines out the door waiting for St. Louis-style ribs, brisket, smoked chicken, cornbread and pulled pork at this modern Texas roadhouse. You’ll be asked if you want fatty or lean brisket (a true sign of a great barbecue spot), sides aren’t an afterthought and the beer and wine list are exemplary. One other thing: Get there early, because when it runs out of ’cue, that’s it for the day. There’s a roll of paper towels on each table and five regional sauces from which to choose, from Alabama white to Carolina mustard, plus a Kansas City-style that’s been a secret of co-owner Brad Barmore’s wife’s family for generations. Contact: 304 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8440, kinsmoke.com

Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria

Enjoy devilishly great pizzas, homemade salumi and authentic Italian entrees from one of Wine Country’s most talented young chefs, Dino Bugica. After spending 10 years in Italy studying butchering and family-style cooking, Bugica has made his osteria/pizzeria a trek-worthy destination. Contact: 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com

Ramen Gaijin

Two white guys making Japanese ramen? That’s the deal with this buzzy noodle and yakitori spot. Owners Matthew Williams and Moishe Hahn-Schuman are passionate about ramen, painstakingly making their own noodles, dashi and pork stock, and using the best local ingredients. They’ve also added a small yakitori grill featuring everything from chicken skin to pork belly. Ramen Gaijin offers disciplined and beautiful adherence to Japanese tradition with a California twist. Contact: 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-827-3609, ramengaijin.com

Shiso Modern Asian Kitchen

There have been nothing but raves for this Asianfusion sushi bar and restaurant just off the Sonoma Plaza. Ramen and yakisoba noodles meet Japanese deviled eggs and miso-garlic-grilled corn, martini scallops and superfresh sushi. Contact: 19161 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-933-9331, shisorestaurant.com

Savvy on First

Far-flung Cloverdale is quietly becoming an impressive food destination, led by Savvy on First. This combination cafe and catering business has some of the best pastries, breakfasts and lunches for miles (and miles), and opens for dinner Thursday through Saturday with small plates like truffled lobster mac and cheese, and larger plates of buttermilk fried chicken and steak frites. A dedication to using local ingredients from farmers and other purveyors puts this restaurant high on the list of go-to places. Contact: 116 E. First St., Cloverdale, 707- 894-3200, savvyonfirst.net

Healdsburg Shed

Michelin-starred chef Perry Hoffman continues to lift the menu of this “Modern Grange” downtown. Dinner service now includes dishes such as slow roasted lamb shoulder with sunflower seed molé, radishes, pomegranate and papalo, and Channel Island halibut with mussels, spinach, walla walla onions and smoked tomato broth. There’s also a Fall Pepper Pizza and bumped-up wine pairings. Contact: 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-7433, healdsburgshed.com

The post 6 Sonoma County Restaurants to Try This Fall appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Fantasy Hong Kong Style BBQ isn’t for everyone, but it is for anyone who is desperate to find authentic Chinese roasted duck, roasted pork belly, honey pork, and spare ribs cut to order.  This is true Chinese barbecue.

Hidden away in a former Round Table pizza, diners are greeted by lacquered roast ducks (heads still on) hanging on hooks in a glass case. The Chinatown similarities extend to a hunk of pork belly, ribs and a few, uh, unrecognizable items hanging by hooks or in steam trays (which turn out to be beef cartilage and pig ears).

Though the menu can be daunting, it’s easiest to just ask what’s good, and do the bbq special: Two meats, rice or noodles and then enjoy the show as the chef hacks slices of meat with a giant cleaver with the adeptness of a sushi chef. For about $14, you’ll get a massive plate of food that could easily feed two. Possibly three.

The roasted duck, with crispy skin and five-spice, is the best we’ve had anywhere in the North Bay, and the honey pork is sweet without being cloying. And though many high-end chefs charge a fortune for pork belly, you’ll get a huge portion with crackling skin and moist, lush fat that would cost five times as much elsewhere.

Suffice to say this is an off-the-beaten-path find that’s only been open a few months, and can only survive if more folks find it. We were stoked for some chicken feet, but the chef said he’s recently taken them off the menu for lack of interest. 

There’s a buffet with more typical Chinese offerings like lemon chicken, fish, fried rice and veggies, all made fresh. Plus, fried peanuts if you’re a fan.

Fantasy Hong Kong Style BBQ: 1520 E. Washington St., Petaluma, opening 10:30a.m. to 9p.m. daily.

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The metal flying pig sculpture soaring atop the roof of Cochon Volant BBQ Smokehouse in Sonoma promises pork, as does the name Cochon, which is French for “pig.” And certainly that succulent meat is a hallmark of this friendly little eatery from chef-owner Rob Larman.

If the art piece from Glen Ellen talent Bryan Tedrick looks familiar, that’s no surprise, since Larman got his Cochon start with his food truck of the same name after owning Rob’s Rib Shack and La Poste bistro in Sonoma more than a decade ago. A smaller version of the sculpture did, and still does, decorate the top of his mobile fire-breathing trailer, which is now parked in the back of the restaurant on Highway 12 at the edge of Boyes Hot Springs.

For the past seven years, Cochon Volant BBQ has been a catering operation and an adjunct to the upscale Rob Larman Private Chef business. But this pig has powerful wings, and now Larman says Cochon has totally eclipsed Private Chef. That could be because of the pulled pork shoulder, which is moist and boasts satisfying chew and generous portions in its plain, slightly crusty bun ($10, including one side). It’s a very good sandwich, especially drenched in Carolina sauce, a thick, whole mustard seed and coarse ground coriander recipe the chef created just last year to please spicier taste buds without blasting us with burn. The sauce doesn’t sport the vinegar kick of a traditional recipe, which is why Larman calls it “Sonoma style,” but it’s certainly delicious.

Locals will remember Cochon’s stucco, metal-roof capped building as the former Hot Box Grill, but all vestiges of that fine dining enterprise are gone now, except for some elegant interior wood trim. We order at the counter, then park ourselves at polished wood tables with bright red stackable chairs, sipping crisp lemonade kissed with lavender ($3.50) and grooving to the piped-in blues music.

This is a fun touch, too. You’ll see pink butcher paper as your tray and plate liners, and if you look into the open kitchen, you’ll see the same pink stuff. That’s because Larman wraps meats in the paper after cooking, since it allows the barbecue to breath while preserving moisture until it’s sliced to order.

When the food arrives, the meat is smoky (but not too smoky, thank you), nuanced with almond wood and marbled with the fuchsia ring that smoke imparts. It’s quality protein, too, particularly the beef short ribs ($26 a pound; all meats available by the ounce) and 14-hour brisket ($22). They aren’t identified on the menu, but my counter server told me they are Creekstone Farms prime Black Angus cuts from Kansas, or Painted Hills grass-fed from Oregon.

The meat was a bit dry in parts on one visit, but perfect on another, and both times full flavored. The ribs are particularly nicely done, with a great crusty edge and beefiness that sings under splashes of the signature Sonoma sauce that’s slightly sweet, medium spicy from pasilla negro chiles, and a touch smoky from chipotles. Just plan ahead: These beauties are served on weekends only.

You can get the baby back pork ribs ($18) anytime, and they’re fine if fatty; the acids in the Sonoma sauce help here. Salty chicken breast ($17) is ordinary, but I’m happy with the catfish sandwich, a big fillet fried in orange-colored achiote batter to a crispy crust, served on a pillowy bun smoothed with chunky remoulade, shredded iceberg and sides of sweet-tangy pickles and pickled onion ($12).

Anyone who remembers Rob’s Rib Shack will recognize sides of “killer” fries ($4) and terrific mashed potatoes ($3) spiked with plenty of garlic. Spice fans will appreciate the fries, as the skinny spud sticks are showered in such a kitchen cabinet full of seasonings that there’s really just potato texture, not taste. Golden crusted skillet corn bread ($3) is more my speed, clean and cake-y, rich with butter and perfect for sopping up sauce.

Barbecue goes with beer, and four local brews are on tap, including Sonoma Springs Uncle Jack’s Kolsch, and HenHouse Saison of Petaluma (all $6 pint). In a nod to vintner neighbors, there’s wine, too, like Buena Vista Carneros Chardonnay ($7/$28), though I quickly caught on to the zero corkage fee and lugged in my own bottle the second time around.

For the little hiccups here and there, it’s impossible to not really like this little ‘cue joint.

Larman himself is usually behind the counter and is so hands-on that one recent week he was out of town, so simply shuttered the restaurant.

His wife, Lizzy Larman, works here, too, and is dangerous with her addictive homemade cookies. They’re pricey at $5 each but are huge, and the chocolate chip model could nearly be a crunchy-capped cake, overloaded with chips melting into gooey goodness.

Pig out.

The post Pig out at Sonoma’s new Cochon Volant appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

From our food blogger, Heather Irwin of BiteClubEats.

As the year comes to a close, it’s always fun to look back at the best dishes of the year — or at least my favorites.

Choosing the best from hundreds of meals isn’t easy, and admittedly is rather subjective, but a few dozen rise to the top as truly special.

Anyone who’s dined with me knows the gratified look I reserve for these remarkable, memorable dishes and the hand clapping that usually accompanies it (I’m not subtle). So, what makes a great dish for me? It’s a combination of flavor, mouthfeel and elements of surprise that I find most delightful — which can come in almost any form, and at any price point.

Some are from fancy restaurants you know, others from food trucks or strip mall finds, or even a standout dish from a restaurant that I didn’t otherwise find memorable. For example, on the affordable end of the spectrum, I fell in love with a vegan chia parfait from Seed on the Go, Indian flatbread at the Outside Lands music festival in San Francisco and a bowl of shakshouka (basically eggs in a spicy, Mediterranean tomato sauce) from Goodman’s Jewish Deli. At the luxe end, a beautiful plate of seared foie gras at Valette captured my heart.

In the end, however, there had to be a single winner, and this year it was a Liberty Farms duck leg with pomegranate, baba ganoush and pistachio dukkah at SHED Cafe in Healdsburg. A perfect Mediterranean dish influenced by local ingredients with kicks of flavor — smoky, sweet, herbaceous and loaded with personality.

“Many dishes on the menu are vegetable-centric,” said Chef Perry Hoffman, who recently took over as Culinary Director, and created the dish. “The duck is almost an afterthought, but it works perfectly,” he said.

It was hard to pick a single favorite dish from Hoffman’s menu, with each course a surprise and delighted featuring root vegetables from nearby farms, fresh herbs and high-end plating, including dry farmed roasted potatoes with garlic aioli, carrot salad with bee balm and yogurt; wild fennel soup with smoked salmon (now off the menu until April) and braised beef cheeks with persimmons.

After multiple courses, I remember getting up from the meal and thinking it was one of the most intriguing and unexpectedly wonderful experiences of the year. Prices range from $9 to $25 for dinner.

See all the dishes in the gallery above.

See the original post on BiteClub here.

The post 30 Best Restaurant Dishes of 2015 in Sonoma County appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.