When I was in my early 20s and just starting to drink wine, I couldn’t get enough of that oaky-buttery thing in Chardonnay. The richer the better! But over time, as I sampled more wines from all over the world, I came to appreciate versions that whisper of fruit, nuance and minerality — rather than shouting about new oak barrels. That classically restrained California style is what Hanzell Vineyards is all about.

The story

James Zellerbach, an industrialist and U.S. ambassador to Italy, fell for Burgundy’s wines during his travels abroad and set out to create a winery estate back home with similar Old-World magic. The year was 1953 — decades before California became known as a world-class wine region.

The San Francisco native bought a sprawling 200-acre property overlooking Sonoma Valley and planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. At the time, only a few hundred acres of each variety stood in all of North America. In 1957, Hanzell Vineyards — named for Zellerbach’s wife Hana — produced its first vintage.

Along the way, Hanzell pioneered winemaking techniques now widely used across California and beyond. The winery was the first in California to exclusively use all French oak barrels for aging, and the first to design and use small, temperature-controlled stainless-steel fermentation tanks instead of wooden vessels.

Today, the winery is owned by Alexander de Brye, who inherited Hanzell in 1991 at age 16. His mother, Barbara de Brye, a London-based heiress, bought the property sight unseen in 1975.

Hanzell’s original Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard, still producing after all these decades, is among the oldest continuously producing Chardonnay vineyards in North America.

The Sonoma estate now includes 46 acres of certified organic vineyards, producing about 7,000 cases of wine per year.

The vibe

It’s hard to overstate the beauty of Zellerbach’s dream estate. To get there, you’ll drive along a twisty, single-lane road — up, up, up — marveling at sweeping views that stretch out to San Pablo Bay.

Visits start at the Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard, where you’ll learn about the winery’s history and farming practices. (Fun fact: Hanzell uses its resident short-snouted pigs for sustainable weed control!) The tour continues in the winery cave, then moves through the open-air winery to Hanzell’s original 1956 production facility — now a museum filled with fascinating vintage equipment.

Amid early stainless steel tanks in the old Fermentation Room, visitors sample Hanzell wines at a long redwood table or at a smaller perch overlooking the historic vineyard. Be warned: The spot’s serenity and panoramic views make it difficult to leave.

On the palate

Whenever I have a chance to sample Hanzell wines, I’m reminded that this is how classic California Chardonnay is supposed to taste: subtle and balanced, with oak taking a backseat to pure fruit and minerality. These wines can age for decades — not that you’ll want to wait that long to enjoy them.

The 2023 Heritage Chardonnay ($78) is the winery’s flagship, made from vines with an average age of 40 years. The wine is fresh and bright with citrus and green apple flavors.

The 2023 Hanzell Farm Zellerbach Selection Chardonnay ($68) is fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral oak, so the wine’s juicy citrus and pear elements shine through. Director of winemaking Jason Jardine also excels at Pinot Noir, as evidenced by the 2022 Heritage Pinot Noir ($98). It has fresh red-fruit aromas and cherry and cranberry flavors.

All winery visits ($90 per person) include an educational walking tour and seated tasting.

Beyond the bottle

Get into the holiday spirit and find out which wines pair best with s’mores at the Sonoma Botanical Garden. Throughout December, visitors can take a twilight stroll through a tunnel of twinkling holiday lights, visit a winter craft workshop, and snuggle up fireside for hot chocolate, local wines and melty s’mores. “Gardens Aglow” happens Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from Dec. 5 to Dec. 21.

Hanzell Vineyards, 18596 Lomita Ave., Sonoma. Tours Monday through Friday by appointment. 707-996-3860, hanzell.com

This article was originally published in The Press Democrat.

Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

The post Hanzell Vineyards Shows How Classic California Chardonnay Should Taste appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Wine Country has long been a playground for the rich and famous. Drawn to the glamour of Napa Valley, or the laid-back, rural vibe of Sonoma County, celebrities are coming here to enjoy the good life — some of them are even making their own wine.

From rock stars to movie makers, race car drivers to football players, check out the VIPs who are making wine in Sonoma and Napa. Find more celebrity hot spots in Sonoma and Napa Wine Country here.

Meghan Markle — As Ever rosé

Actor and Los Angeles-born Duchess of Sussex Meghan Markle recently released a Napa Valley rosé as part of her “As Ever” lifestyle and kitchen products brand. The wine, released July 1 on the anniversary of Princess Diana’s birthday, is a Provençal-style rosé bottled at Kunde Family Winery in Kenwood. Markle’s 2023 Napa Valley rosé — As Ever’s first wine — is already sold-out online, but a Napa Valley sparkling wine and additional varietals will follow, according to the PR team.

Jessica Biel — Prophet & Poet

Earlier this year, actor Jessica Biel unveiled her locally made wine brand at BottleRock Napa Valley 2025. Her Healdsburg-based label, Prophet & Poet, currently offers a Cabernet Sauvignon, two Chardonnays and two blended reds. Biel’s wine label originated in 2019 when Jesse Katz, winemaker of Healdsburg’s Aperture Cellars, created a red wine blend as a wedding present for Biel’s younger brother, Justin Biel. Katz later suggested to the Biel siblings that they turn that wine into a label, and they were immediately on board. Katz tapped Christopher and Ariel Jackson, of Jackson Family Wines, to collaborate on the label’s inaugural release. Both Jessica Biel and Katz poured the label’s wine at this year’s BottleRock during a VIP Platinum Lounge event.

Max Thieriot — Senses Wines

Max Thieriot, the brainchild and star of the drama TV series Fire Country, co-founded Senses Wines with childhood friends Christopher Strieter and Myles Lawrence-Briggs in 2011. The Occidental winery sources grapes from the West Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley, producing an array of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Ayesha Curry — Domaine Curry wines

Restaurateur, cookbook author and food television personality Ayesha Curry teamed up with her sister-in-law Sydel Curry (Steph Curry’s younger sister) and Napa’s Coup de Foudre Winery to launch wine label Domaine Curry in 2015. The sisters-in-law share a love of wine and have been spotted sipping wine at Scribe Winery in Sonoma. Their wines include the Domaine Curry Cabernet and the Domaine Curry Sauvignon Blanc.

Salma Hayek — Eisele Vineyard

Salma Hayek and her billionaire husband François-Henri Pinault own Eisele Vineyard east of Calistoga. In October 2020, Hayek made a public announcement on Instragram, in which she thanked the firefighters who saved the Calistoga vineyard from the Glass Fire. “I can’t help but feel an immense sense of gratitude for all the first responders that came to the rescue of so many people, animals and properties,” she wrote.

Brie and Nikki Bella — Bonita Bonita

The former professional wrestling tag team known as the Bella Twins announced in October 2020 that they were moving with their families to Napa Valley, according to People magazine. The identical twins had started producing their own wine in 2017 in partnership with Napa’s Hill Family Estate, its proprietor Ryan Hill and award-winning winemaker Alison Doran. Their first wine was a Cabernet Sauvignon named “Belle Radici,” which means “beautiful roots” in Italian, and the bottle was adorned with a sleek label depicting the twins. From there, the twins launched their own winery in Napa, Bonita Bonita.

Tori Spelling — The Tori Collection at HALL Wines

Actor Tori Spelling brought 90210 to Napa Valley when she announced on Instagram in November 2020 that she had partnered with HALL Wines to put together The Tori Collection of wines. “Getting the chance to meet and work with HALL and wine legend and my spirit animal Kathryn Hall was really exciting,” she wrote. Spelling handpicked 11 wines to include in her collection — ranging from a rich Cabernet Sauvignon to light and fruity rosé to canned wine, according to People magazine.

John Legend — LVE Collection Wines

Grammy, Golden Globe and Oscar-winning musician John Legend launched his LVE Collection Wines in 2015. Working with famed vintner Jean-Charles Boisset, Legend’s wines include sparkling rosé, as well as a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Chardonnay produced with fruit from Raymond Vineyards in Napa. Distributed nationally, the wines can be tasted at Raymond Vineyards and on tour with Legend.

Candace Cameron Buce — Bure Family Wines

“Fuller House” star Candace Cameron Bure and her husband, hockey player Val Bure, own Bure Family Wines in St. Helena. The couple began making wine in 2006, according to Wine Spectator. The couple likes to spend time in Wine Country and Candace Cameron Bure has been spotted at luxury restaurant SingleThread in Healdsburg. She shared in an Instagram post that she “brought a treat to drink” — a bottle of Screaming Eagle wine — when she took a friend to dinner at the restaurant in 2017.

Tamera Mowry-Housley — Housley Napa Valley

Actor Tamera Mowry-Housley, who got her start on the sitcom “Sister, Sister,” co-owns Housley Napa Valley with her husband, journalist Adam Housley. The tasting room is located in downtown Napa. The winery produces rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Petit Sirah.

Guy Fieri — Hunt & Ryde

Guy Fieri bought a 5-acre vineyard of Pinot Noir grapes in the Russian River Valley appellation in 2013. In his first vintage, he sold his grapes to Jackson Family Wines for its La Crema brand and to Williams Selyem winery in Healdsburg. He then launched his own wine label, Hunt & Ryde, named for his sons Hunter and Ryder. Fieri collaborates with local vintner Guy Davis, of Davis Family Vineyards, to produce Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and a Cabernet “Trophy” blend.

Francis Ford Coppola — Francis Ford Coppola Winery

Legendary film director, producer and screenwriter Francis Ford Coppola has been involved in the wine industry since buying Napa’s Inglenook Estate in 1975. Coppola expanded his wine empire to Geyserville when he opened his namesake winery in 2006. The winery includes a museum of memorabilia from his iconic films, such as The Godfather, Bram Stoker’s Dracula and Apocalypse Now. In 2015, Coppola bought a second winery, Virginia Dare. Both are open to the public.

John and Nancy Lasseter — Lasseter Family Winery

Lasseter Family Winery in Glen Ellen was founded in the early 2000s by Nancy and John Lasseter, the former chief creative officer of Walt Disney Animation Studios and Pixar. The winery produces rosé, Sauvignon Blanc and a variety of red blends.

Robert Mark Kamen — Kamen Estate Wines

When screenwriter and producer Robert Kamen (the Karate Kid series, Fifth Element, A Walk In The Clouds, Taken and Taken II) visited Sonoma County in 1980 to celebrate the sale of his first screenplay, he fell in love with the land. He purchased a 280-acre mountaintop property and eventually transformed it into a world-class vineyard producing estate wines. Pop into Kamen Estate Wines’ tasting room in downtown Sonoma or make an appointment to visit the mountaintop vineyards.

Les Claypool — Purple Pachyderm at Claypool Cellars

The bassist and lead vocalist of the rock band Primus, Les Claypool has been living in the Russian River Valley region of Sonoma County since 1994. His Claypool Cellars produces sparkling wine, rosé and Pinot Noir under the Purple Pachyderm label. Wine club members receive bottles signed by Claypool in their shipments and get invitations to exclusive concerts where they can party like (and with) rock stars. Taste the wines at their appointment only “fancy booze caboose” in Sebastopol.

Dave Matthews — Dreaming Tree Wines

Singer-songwriter Dave Matthews entered the winemaking game in 2000, when he opened Blenheim Vineyards winery in Charlottesville, Virginia. In response to demand from his fans, Matthews partnered with former Clos du Bois winemaker Sean McKenzie to launch Dreaming Tree Wines. Distributed nationally, and reasonably priced, they produce a Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma County and other wines made with grapes from throughout California.

Jonathan Cain — Finale Wines

Musician and songwriter Jonathan Cain is the keyboardist and rhythm guitarist for Journey. (The keyboards on “Don’t Stop Believin’”? Yeah, that’s him!). When he isn’t touring the world, he’s enjoying his own wine journey with Sonoma County vintner Dennis De La Montanya. Proceeds from their Finale Wines, which include a rosé of Malbec and a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, benefit charity.

Dwyane Wade — Wade Cellars

NBA star Dwyane Wade discovered his love of great Napa Valley wines while wining and dining with teammates Chris Bosh and Lebron James. The former professional basketball player partnered with his friend, Napa Valley vintner Jayson Pahlmeyer, to launch his own wine label, Wade Cellars, in 2015. Wade Cellars wines include a rosé and a Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yao Ming — Yao Family Wines

Former NBA All-Star Yao Ming fell in love with wine while playing for the Houston Rockets. Today, he owns and operates Yao Family Wines in St. Helena, producing age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon. The ultra-modern tasting room features food and wine pairings and a touch of memorabilia from Yao’s career in sports. He’s not only selling wine in Napa Valley, but also to great success in China, including in his hometown of Shanghai.

Charles Woodson — Intercept Wines

Former NFL football player Charles Woodson fell in love with wine and decided to learn more about the winemaking process during spring training for the Oakland Raiders, which takes place in Napa Valley. After a successful career in sports, including winning the Super Bowl with the Green Bay Packers, Woodson started his own label, Charles Woodson’s Intercept Wines. Intercept Wines include a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and a red blend.

Carmen Policy — Casa Piena

He might not have played on the field, but Carmen Policy helped bring the San Francisco 49ers four Super Bowl championships and was named “Executive of the Year” by the NFL and one of the “Most Influential People in Professional Sports” by GQ. Now retired, Carmen and his wife, Gail, operate Casa Piena (“Full House” in Italian) in Napa Valley, where they produce Cabernet Sauvignons that score high with Robert Parker. Wines are available on an allotment-only basis, with tastings available by appointment.

Dick Vermeil — Vermeil Wines

As an NFL coach, Dick Vermeil led the St. Louis Rams to their only Super Bowl championship, and also coached for the Philadelphia Eagles and Kansas City Chiefs. Born in Calistoga, it is no surprise that Vermeil started his own winery upon retirement. Vermeil Wines has a tasting room in downtown Napa and produces varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. Vermeil attends all wine member events, signing autographs and sipping the fruits of his labor.

Mario Andretti — Andretti Winery

Mario Andretti is considered one of the most successful race car drivers of all time. With that success comes not only a Ferrari (or two), but also a winery in Napa Valley that he co-founded in 1996. Wines run the gamut, from sweet Moscato and Riesling to beefy Cabernets and super Tuscans. Andretti Winery offers food and wine pairings in an Italian-inspired environment. Winery guests frequently brush elbows with Andretti and other race car drivers, especially when races take place at Sonoma Raceway.

Kevin Buckler — Adobe Road Winery

Race car driver and team owner Kevin Buckler has been producing wine in Sonoma County since 1995 at his Adobe Road Winery. Winner of Rolex 24 Hours of Daytona, 24 Hours of Le Mans and numerous championships, Buckler and his wife, Debra, produce a wide array of wines from well-known vineyards, including Cabernet Sauvignon from Beckstoffer. Taste the wines at Adobe Road’s downtown Petaluma tasting room, complete with racing memorabilia.

Randy Lewis — Lewis Cellars

Most race car drivers will never race in the famous Indy 500, but Randy Lewis has done it — five times. Lewis started Lewis Cellars in 1992 with his wife, Debbie, a longtime wine industry professional. Eventually the couple were joined by their son, Dennis. Their appointment-only Napa Valley tasting room features wines from throughout the region, which include Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and a Cabernet Sauvignon-based Cuvée.

Gavin Newsom — PlumpJack, CADE and Odette wineries

Gov. Gavin Newsom co-founded PlumpJack Winery in Oakville, CADE Winery in Angwin and Odette Estate in Napa.

No longer available / Not open to the public

Vince Neil — Mötley Crüe frontman Vince Neil launched his own “Vince” wine label in the early 2000s. Vince wines were produced by Adler Fels Winery in Santa Rosa, according to Wine Spectator.

Joe Montana — Iconic 49ers quarterback Joe Montana teamed up with winemaker Ed Sbragia to create Montagia, a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, according to Decanter. The wine was released in 1999, when Sbragia was the winemaker at Beringer Vineyards in St. Helena. In 2019, Montana listed his Napa estate for $28.9 million. It was later re-listed for $20 million less. The 503-acre ranch was originally priced at $49 million in 2009.

Dan Marino — Former Miami Dolphins quarterback Dan Marino put his name behind the Sonoma County-based Marino Estates Vintage “13” California Cabernet, which benefited the Dan Marino Foundation, according to Wine Spectator.

Nancy Pelosi — Rep. Nancy Pelosi and her husband, Paul, own a private vineyard on Zinfandel Lane in St. Helena.

Tommy Smothers — Late comedian Tommy Smothers — best known as half of the musical comedy duo the Smothers Brothers, alongside his younger brother Dick — owned Remick Ridge Vineyards in Kenwood.

Janet Balicki, Elissa Chudwin, Maci Martell and Sarah Stierch contributed to this article. 

The post The Celebrities Who Are Making Wine in Sonoma and Napa Wine Country appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Those who’ve visited Sonoma’s historic Buena Vista Winery may not realize that neighboring Bartholomew Estate winery was once part of the same property. Today, the expansive estate has an identity all its own, yet it remains steeped in Sonoma Valley history.

The story

Bartholomew Estate’s colorful past stretches back to 1823, when Mission Solano de Sonoma planted vines at the site for sacramental wines. In the century to follow, the property assumed an array of fascinating identities, from pioneering Buena Vista Winery founder Agoston Haraszthy’s vineyard estate to a private country compound with its own 40-room “castle” to a state-owned rehab farm for “delinquent women.”

In 1943, war correspondent Frank “Bart” Bartholomew bought the abandoned property for $17,500 as a gift for his wife Antonia. Discovering remnants of old vines and winery ruins, the couple revived Buena Vista’s legacy with the help of legendary winemaker André Tchelistcheff. The Bartholomews later sold Buena Vista but kept 375 acres as their private estate.

The ranch’s latest incarnation launched in 2019, when the Frank H. Bartholomew Foundation — created in 1980 to preserve the property and its history — teamed up with winemaker Kevin Holt to open Bartholomew Estate Winery. Today, the Sonoma Valley estate includes 22 combined acres of Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

The vibe

Bartholomew Estate looks a lot like a park — because it is one. Driving through the woodsy property to reach the winery, you’re likely to pass locals walking their dogs along its meandering paths or cyclists getting in a morning ride. Though the estate is privately owned, its pup-friendly hiking trails and picnic areas are open to the public free of charge.

The former inmate hospital for the “delinquent” women’s farm, built in 1922, now houses the winery tasting room. It’s not nearly as creepy as that sounds. The space is warm and cheerful, with a gallery room that features a rotating display of work by local artists.

Bartholomew Estate’s setting is ideal for outdoor sipping, especially on the serene Oak Knoll tasting terrace, open April through September. Set among the trees and overlooking a lovely Sauvignon Blanc vineyard, it includes seating areas shaded by California live oaks. It’s hard to imagine you’re just a five-minute drive from the Sonoma Plaza.

On the palate

Bartholomew Estate makes many of its wines from grapes grown on the property, along with vineyards in the surrounding area. The 2022 Marsanne-Rousanne ($38) is a standout, with its floral aromas, peachy flavor and zingy lime notes. (The soon-to-be-released 2023 vintage won a Best of Class award at the 2025 Press Democrat North Coast Wine Challenge, and as a judge in this year’s competition, I can attest to its deliciousness.) The 2022 Press Release — another Best of Class winner — is a mixed berry pie of a wine made with Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. The 2022 Wildcat Mountain Pinot Noir ($65) is all about cherries, accented with baking spices. Wines are sold only in the tasting room or online, and all earnings go toward maintaining the property and park.

Tastings range from $45-$55 for the Estate Wine Tasting to $75 for the Wine Tasting Flight + Mediterranean Mezze Delights, which includes a colorful platter of Middle Eastern snacks from Sonoma’s Spread Kitchen.

Beyond the bottle

Plan to explore Bartholomew Estate’s 3 miles of public hiking trails, set among mature oaks, madrones, redwoods and vineyards. Bring a picnic and a bottle of the winery’s crisp Sauvignon Blanc or rosé to sip with your portable feast. You can also book horseback tours through Sonoma Valley Trail Rides ($150-$170) or join a nature therapy guide for an immersive “forest bathing” session that ends with a seated wine tasting ($150).

1000 Vineyard Lane, Sonoma, 707-509-0540. Open daily. bartholomewestate.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

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The New York Times recently released a list of the most memorable wines of 2024. Sonoma and Napa wineries made it on the roundup of 12 young, noteworthy wines.

The Times’ chief wine critic Eric Asimov curated the list with a focus on “younger, more accessible bottles along with a couple of middle-aged examples.”

Among the newer bottles is a 2017 Chardonnay from Matt Taylor Wines in Occidental. And one of the older, “middle-aged” wines is a 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon from Corison Winery in St. Helena.

Matt Taylor Wines, Komorebi Vineyard 2017 Chardonnay

This west county winery focuses on small batches of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir made with organic and biodynamic vineyard practices. Asimov noted he had been “hearing great things” about Matt Taylor’s wines, and was finally able to try it at Point Seven restaurant near New York’s Grand Central Station.

“It was unforgettable, so different in style from the lean, precise Chardonnays that are in fashion around the world today,” Asimov wrote about Matt Taylor Wines’ Komorebi Vineyard 2017 Chardonnay. “This seemed broader, more richly textured, both complex and saline.”

Purchase the Sonoma Coast wine for $75 at Fiasco! Wine & Spirits. The winery also has its Komorebi Vineyard 2018 Chardonnay for sale on its website for $100. Its 2020 Chardonnay is currently sold out, though recent release Pinots are available ($80-$100). matttaylorwines.com

Corison, Napa Valley 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon

Cathy Corison, renowned owner and vintner of St. Helena’s Corison, specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon. The San Francisco Chronicle named her Winemaker of the Year in 2011 as well as “one of Napa Valley’s best winemakers of the last half century” earlier this month.

“With sufficient aging, her wines always have a lot to say,” Asimov wrote of Corison’s Cabernets. “This 2001 was a beautiful expression of the potential of Napa Cabernets, graceful and complex with a lovely balance of earthy, stony, fruit and herbal flavors.”

Purchase a bottle (from $199) at Wine-Searcher. Corison’s 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon (valued at $335) is sold out on its website, but the winery offers dozens of other Cabs (from $65). corison.com

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Take a trip through most small towns and you’ll find the usual public amenities: A park, a library, maybe even a pool — but a city vineyard?

Welcome to Tex Juen Park and Vineyard in Sonoma, where about an acre of Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon is meticulously maintained and harvested by a devoted crew of hobby enologists called the Sonoma Home Winemakers.

“It was a big lot of weeds when the city took over,” says Doug Ghiselin, who helped establish the tiny, unassuming vineyard on Leveroni Road near downtown Sonoma in the 1990s, along with namesake Henry “Tex” Juen, better known as a prolific stonemason who built many Sonoma Valley wineries.

“Somebody called it a vineyard. But the only vines that were there at the time were the big, heavy, thick ones — the Sauvignon Blanc at the end of the rows.”

Originally calling themselves “The Valley of the Moon Dilettante Enological Society,” the group planted new vines donated by local wineries and grapegrowers. Where once there was a mink farm, and later an artist colony, now there is a “teaching vineyard.” If you want to learn printmaking or ceramics, you go to the local community center. For budding viticulturists and winemakers, there is Tex Juen vineyard.

On a recent morning, midway through another heat wave, Ghiselin and six other members set up a table in the shade alongside the vineyard. They’re part of “the Leveroni Group,” a subgroup within Sonoma Home Winemakers who do most of the care and harvesting. Within minutes, they’re popping a 2019 Merlot, aged in Ghiselin’s makeshift wine cellar, aka a crawlspace beneath his house.

The Merlot tastes like any moderately priced bottle you might pull off the shelf at a local wine shop. To the bikers, joggers and walkers that pass by frequently along the adjacent Fryer Creek Trail, it seems perfectly normal that the group are standing around drinking wine at 11 in the morning.

In 2023, the Leveroni Group filled two barrels each of Chardonnay and Merlot from around 1,000 vines on just over an acre. Other members farm a few additional rows of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Some of the wine will go to the city of Sonoma, for pouring and auctioning off at fundraisers and events. But most is split between members.

Over the years, member Bob Brindley catalogued the most common reactions he gets after pouring homemade wine for the uninitiated. They range from “I’ve had worse” and “it’s drinkable” to “not bad” and “this is really good” — the last comment uttered almost in shock.

Dressing up the morning work party’s picnic table with a tablecloth and a spread of gourmet cheeses and almonds is member Rebecca Kreeger, who joined the group in 2019 after she and her husband bought a home with 63 Cabernet Sauvignon vines that needed caring for. Kreeger’s block was too small to hire a professional vineyard company, so she came to a monthly meeting looking for pruning tips. Before long, she was out in the vineyard with Ghiselin and the gang.

The group has around 50 devoted members, many who have small vineyards at their homes. They regularly attend monthly meetings, where wine industry guest speakers often share their expertise and year-round vineyard work parties. At the parties they do jobs like pruning, suckering, weeding and sulfur dusting.

Many volunteer at harvest, collecting grapes in truckloads of 5-gallon buckets. Some are retired or semi-retired, while others are near the end of their careers. Vocations include salumi salesman, travel industry executive, fabricator of large-scale art installations, savings and loan asset manager, and newspaper ad rep. One member, Joseph Daniel, made a documentary called “Tiny Vineyards,” and now makes wine professionally.

They all have a similar dream — to make the best possible wine on what is often the smallest scale possible, with the least amount of expensive tools.

Without professional resources, sometimes basic winemaking needs like temperature control can be a challenge. Over the years, there have been plenty of mistakes and lessons learned. About a decade ago, the city cut off the water. The group has been learning to dry-farm ever since, except for new plantings.

One year, they were fermenting Chardonnay in aluminum beer kegs when a newbie filled them too high and all of the kegs bubbled over. Another year, they didn’t have the technology to determine if the wine had gone through malolactic fermentation. They bottled it — and corks started popping when warm weather hit.

“We’re always trying to find ways to make what we do better, or make the wine better, and so a lot of that is learning from experience,” Brindley says. “We’ve had situations where something didn’t work out and was a big disappointment. And other times we’ve seen really, really big improvement.”

In 2020, the Chardonnay was loaded with too much residual sugar, which led to super-high alcohol content. “It was totally oxidized,” says Brindley. “It tasted like a bad sherry, which you don’t want in a Chardonnay.” Most of it went down the drain, but some people distilled it into rubbing alcohol. Kreeger bottled it in plastic spray cans she uses to clean around the house.

In a way, it’s nothing new. “The Chardonnay never really came out that good back in the day,” says Ghiselin. The reason? “We didn’t have a lot of wine snobs in the group back then,” he says with a dry laugh. After working 30 years in the Vallejo shipyards, he enjoys poking some good-natured fun at some of the less blue-collar winemakers who have joined the ranks over the years.

At an open house in January, part of the mission was to actively recruit the next wave of home winemakers. Paz Del Rascate and Jesse Castro, both in their 30s, were immediately hooked. The friends were already working locally in wine production but wanted to branch out from their day jobs. At their first meeting, a member offered them 100 Chardonnay vines to maintain, harvest and turn into wine. Soon after, someone else offered them 86 Merlot vines. And the offers kept coming. This harvest, they’ll be making wine from nearly 1,400 vines they’ve adopted.

“It’s been crazy,” says Del Rescate, who used to ferment cheap wine in a bag back in his dorm room at Texas A&M. “And in exchange, all they want is a little bit of finished wine.”

Overwhelmed with the amount of pruning, they reached out last winter to Kreeger for help. “She sent out a post, and all of a sudden eight members came out to help us prune,” says Castro. “They had only met us like once or twice. I was like, ‘Wow, is this for real?’ The fact that they came out to support us just speaks volumes.”

When harvest rolls around, “I know if we need more help, they’ll be there,” says Del Rescate. “You can’t do this alone — it takes a community.”

Sonoma Home Winemakers hosts monthly educational talks and group events at the Sonoma Community Center. There are also twice-monthly Saturday morning work parties at the Tex Juen Park and Vineyard in Sonoma. New members are always welcome. For more information, visit sonomahomewine.org.

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Obsidian Wine Company’s new tasting room is set smack in the middle of the historic Sonoma Plaza, yet it somehow manages to convey an off-the-beaten-path vibe. That’s fitting for renegade vintners who pride themselves on operating outside the box — from planting a vineyard on a ridge of solid obsidian glass to coopering their own barrels in Hungary to creating unconventional wines to complement the classics.

The story

Brothers Arpad and Peter Molnar cofounded the winery with Michael Terrien more than two decades ago after planting a vineyard at the site of an abandoned walnut orchard in Lake County. The Obsidian Ridge vineyard sits on a volcano, dotted with huge boulders of black obsidian. If that sounds extreme, there’s a good reason: It is!

Though the winery is based in Sonoma, the original vineyard remains a focus for the Obsidian brand. In 2020, Obsidian Wine Co. embarked on a new adventure with its Rabbit Hole program, dedicated to experimental winemaking and uncommon varieties.

The vibe

Base Camp is set 50 feet back from the square, between Chateau Sonoma and Sign of the Bear. Step into the Japanese-style garden, past the giant obsidian boulder “imported” from Lake County, and you’ll find a mini oasis.

The tasting room has an indoor-outdoor feel, with open, airy spaces, lots of natural light and a fenced patio filled with native trees and plants. The garden’s coolest feature is a fire pit made from a huge chunk of — you guessed it — obsidian. Inside, a wall-sized video installation provides a virtual visit to Obsidian Ridge — with the occasional lizard scuttling across the rocks.

On the palate

Looking for classic varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay? Or do you like your wines a little on the wild side, with “natural” leanings and lesser-known grape varieties taking center stage? Obsidian swings both ways.

Choose from three themed flights ($30-$50), including the Base Camp tasting — a mix of wines from Lake County and Carneros — an all-Cabernet flight, and the Down the Rabbit Hole tasting of experimental wines.

Among the classic lineup, the Obsidian 2023 Estate Chardonnay ($35) from the Molnar family’s Poseidon vineyard in Carneros is a bright, herbaceous beauty with mineral notes. The deeply colored 2021 Half Mile Cabernet Sauvignon ($80) — named for this particular block’s location halfway up the volcano — showcases the winery’s Lake County vineyard. It’s juicy and delicious, with plummy fruit flavor and a firm tannic structure.

If you’re tasting with friends, make sure at least one of you opts for the Rabbit Hole flight; that’s where the fun is. I love the Pear Blanc ($18 per half bottle), a sparkling blend of Sauvignon Blanc grapes and Lake County pear juice. With a name that translates to “tongue twister,” the “Virelangue” Picpoul-Bourboulenc smells like fresh melons and has a round texture to match — yet the white blend has a refreshing zing of acidity.

Beyond the bottles

There’s plenty to see and do on the Sonoma Plaza, but if you fancy a sweet treat away from the tourist throngs, take a six-minute drive to La Michoacana in Boyes Hot Springs. This family-owned Mexican ice cream shop is the place to go for flavors like coconut-pineapple and rose petal, plus paletas (frozen fruit pops) studded with chunks of fresh mango, guava and pineapple. Not ready for dessert just yet? Stop by El Molino Central for yummy tamales and fish tacos.

Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

The post Sonoma’s Obsidian Base Camp Offers a Taste of the Unexpected appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Photographers have long experimented with developing black-and-white film in solutions of instant coffee, beer and other liquids — a time-honored and nontoxic alternative to traditional chemical processes.

Sonoma photographer James Joiner has now done the same with wine. He turned to longtime collaborator Ian Sullivan to help refine the method, and together they honed in on a process with red wine that worked not just well, but extremely well.

Joiner now has an ongoing partnership with Kodak to photograph the people he has come to know and admire in the wine world and develop the portraits in wines that hold meaning for the subjects, with the ultimate aim of releasing a book. Each portrait bears the mark of the winemaker via the subtle rosy glow from the wine in which it was developed.

Joiner’s interest in wine ignited in 2008 after meeting Sonoma winemaker Tony Coturri through a friend. Coturri offered him a bottle and, when Joiner declined, saying he didn’t really like to drink, Coturri poured him a glass anyway.

“Wine isn’t drinking, it’s stories in a bottle,” Coturri told him.

Something clicked, launching Joiner into an obsession with the stories of wine and the people who work with it.

“There’s a poetry in wine, and a poetry in analog photography,” Joiner explains. “So to be able to capture someone on film and have the actual light and energy from that split-second of exposure bond with the wine — it’s incredibly magical. The moment gets fused together forever inside the silver halide crystals that make up the black-and-white image. Plus, the process is completely nontoxic, which is important to me.”

“Sonoma is just… it’s an incredible spot,” says Joiner. “It’s been one of those rare places where you always seem to be in the right place at the right time, full of chance encounters and small-world moments.”

Rosalind Manoogian, Fog Crest Vineyard

“Shooting a proper portrait isn’t about just capturing someone’s likeness. That’s for driver’s licenses and passports. Portraits should speak to who the subject is and give insight into their character. To do this properly, most photographers have to learn to get out of the way and adapt to the situation.

Meeting Rosalind at her Fog Crest Vineyard estate tasting room, it immediately became clear that her elegance and confidence should take center stage. After shooting and talking with her for almost an hour, it was obvious she was as lyrical and complex as the Pinot Noir she produces. This shot — developed in a stunning 2018 Fog Crest Estate Pinot Noir — is more serious than some of the others. For that reason, it’s also one of my favorites. What’s that saying? ‘Fashion is fleeting, style is forever.’ Rosalind, and her wines, have style for miles.”

Hardy Wallace, Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah!

“This was taken the very first time I met Hardy, at his production facility in Kenwood. While his expressiveness and stoke is well documented, nothing prepares you for the ball of positivity that is Hardy in real life.

I shot this with a fish-eye lens because I love how the distortion makes him feel larger than life. Fun fact, this was taken moments after discovering we were born in the same hospital in Salem, Massachusetts. Developed in Hardy’s 2022 Extradimensional Wine Co Yeah! Marvelous Mourvèdre, a beautiful, playful wine that defies the varietal’s brooding stereotype.”

Katie Rouse and Corinne Rich, Birdhorse Wines

“One of my favorite things about these wine film portraits is forcing myself to make an expressive image in a place I’ve often never been with someone I don’t really know. To be fair, I’d worked with Katie a bit in her role as assistant winemaker at Bedrock Wine Co., where this was shot, but never Corrine.

The newlywed couple were a photographer’s dream, more than willing to go the extra mile, as evidenced by the frames of Katie hosing Corrine down — something she certainly didn’t mind on a 104-degree July day. Processed in their 2021 Birdhorse Barbera, a delicate wine whose high acid content paired perfectly with the duo’s playfulness and the frenetic energy of the images.”

Patrick Cappiello, Monte Rio Cellars

“I met Patrick before he was a winemaker, at his restaurant Pearl & Ash in New York City. He taught me how to saber Champagne with an iPhone for a story I was doing, and we stayed in touch. The way Patrick has willed himself into being a pivotal part of a new generation of winemakers always impresses me, as does his adherence to a DIY, punk-rock ethos.

The framing, film and super-wide lens make me think of classic early ’90s skate and hip-hop images, a vibe that works well for him. This was shot on Kodak Tri-X film and developed in Cappiello’s ebullient 2021 Monte Rio Cellars Zinfandel, which I think lent itself to the boldness of the images.”

Bibiana Gonzáles Rave, Cattleya Wines, Alma de Cattleya, Shared Notes

“Bibiana met me at her winery for the shoot but was so excited to hear that I loved coffee she rushed me to another part of the building to show off her single origin, female-farmed coffee company, all roasted in-house and sourced in her native Colombia. Her excitement is as palpable as her sophistication, whether discussing the nuance of coffee imports or the clones that go into her breathtaking farming-forward wines at Cattleya.

Quick to laugh and naturally gregarious, Bibiana made photographing her, much like enjoying her wines, almost too easy. Developed in her mind-blowing 2021 Cattleya ‘The Reward’ Syrah, a wine so special they only make a handful of cases. Fitting for a portrait of a winemaker of the same caliber.”

Chris Christensen, Bodkin Wines

“When Chris rolled up to his Sebastopol winery and got out of his car with a vintage saber as big as his smile, I knew this was gonna be a fun one. Equal parts insightful, eccentric and hilarious, Chris is as effervescent as his sparkling wines, several of which he happily beheaded for our shoot.

We only went through one roll of film — 12 frames — and after developing them in his wonderfully autobiographically emoji-labeled 2022 Bodkin Light Skinned Zinfandel, I can say almost all of them rank among the favorites I’ve ever taken.”

Digital bonus: We’ve teamed up with photographer James Joiner and his friends at The Wine Makers podcast for a series of winemaker interviews in September. 

The post Purple Passion: These Indie Winemaker Portraits Were Developed in Wine appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Fair—and started winning awards.

He finally decided to go pro in the aftermath of the 2017 wildfires. McCarter sold his insurance agency and signed on for an internship at Vinify Wine Services in Santa Rosa, where he found a mentor in Matt Duffy of Vaughn Duffy winery.

After taking a break to study enology at SRJC, he returned to Vinify as an assistant winemaker and launched McCarter Cellars with the the double-gold-winning Forchini Pinot Noir and a Sauvignon Blanc. This year, he’ll release his first dry Gewürztraminer and the 2023 Pink*ish rosé. His wines are now carried at Bottle Barn and at several top Santa Rosa restaurants, including Grossman’s and Jackson’s Bar and Oven.

McCarter is involved in organizing events to lift up the work of other Black winemakers. He’s organizing a Juneteenth event to celebrate trailblazer Mac McDonald of Windsor’s Vision Cellars, who is now in his 80s. And when McCarter’s not talking wine, he teaches judo to underserved youth and serves on the board of the Rohnert Park Community Round Table, which helps improve relationships between law enforcement and communities of color. mccartercellars.com

McCarter Cellars 2022 Forchini Pinot Noir, $48 

A 98-point Best of Class double-gold winner at The Press Democrat’s 2024 North Coast Wine Challenge. “The compliment I get is that this is an Old World approach,” says McCarter. “It’s a bit lighter in color but with a rich mouthfeel—definitely exceeding expectations. I love it with pork chops, grilled chicken, couscous with raisins and dried cherries.”

McCarter Cellars 2023 Gewürztraminer, $29 

This is McCarter’s first time working with this variety, which arrived in the winery relatively early and was foot stomped, then given 24 hours of skin contact. “It’s got a rose petal aroma, lychee, and a nice little bit of pineapple on the palate. I love it with Thai food and al pastor tacos.”

McCarter Cellars 2023 Pink*ish Rosé of Pinot Noir, $25 

McCarter has almost sold out of his 2022 rosé and will release the 2023 soon. It’s made using the saignée method, with lovely strawberry and floral notes. “It’s a wine I’d want to enjoy at the beach or out by the pool,” he says.

McCarter Cellars 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, $38 

McCarter got only a ton of this fruit, and it’s special, he says, with flavors of lime, Asian pear, and gooseberry, and lovely acidity. “I think of being out at Bodega Bay, enjoying it at the beach with a plate of oysters—or fish tacos or ceviche.”

The post Sonoma County Winemaker Wins Top Award at Prestigious Wine Competition appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Weary, somewhat bleary of the spin-sniff-sip-swallow-or-spit wine tasting experience? These Sonoma and Napa wineries offer a little something extra to pair with your cabernet.

Medieval fortresses and parterre gardens, swimming pools and outdoor art galleries, riding horses and trolleys — there’s plenty of reason to venture outside the tasting room on your next Wine Country trip.

A trip to Germany at Schug Carneros Estate Winery

French, Italian and Spanish accents abound at Sonoma and Napa wineries, so a visit to Walter Schug’s German-styled winery in Carneros is as refreshing as a trocken riesling.

Schug, who died in 2015 at age 80, grew up at Staatsweingut Assmannshausen in Germany’s Rhine Valley. Bit by the winegrowing bug, he eventually made his way to Napa Valley, as winemaker for Joseph Phelps Winery. In 1983, he founded his own winery estate yard in Sonoma Carneros, the production facility and tasting room designed with the peaked roof and timber framing typical in the Rhine. All the original winemaking equipment came from Germany and some of it remains, most strikingly the 669-gallon wood oval aging casks, some of them elaborately carved.

Riesling is no longer in the Schug repertoire, the grape not ideally suited to Sonoma’s sunny climate. Instead, Schug took the pinot noir (spatburgunder) route, adding chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and other varietals to the mix. His children continue the business, with German-American Johannes Scheid the winemaker.

The Cave Tour & Tasting Experience ($75) includes a walk around the property and through the production area and caves, followed by a seated tasting of current-release and Heritage Reserve wines, served with snacks.

602 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-939-9363, schugwinery.com

Outdoor art gallery at The Donum Estate

Wineries have long been places for visitors to view art and photography on the walls of tasting rooms. Sculptures welcome guests at estate entrances and within sight of tasters.

Now, Donum has taken artistic displays well beyond the usual, dotting its 200-acre Carneros estate with 50-some large-scale, open-air sculptures from artists including Ai Weiwei, Keith Haring, Subodh Gupta and Doug Aitken. Adding to the high-end artistry: the tasting area designed by Danish architect David Thulstrup, known for his interior design of world-class Noma restaurant in Copenhagen.

The basic way to enjoy Donum is to book its Carneros Experience ($95), which includes a walking tour of the estate and tastes of its rosé, chardonnay and pinot noir. The Explore Experience ($175) is a two-hour, all-terrain-vehicle tour of the estate and tasting of wines served with seasonal bites and, of course, views of the artwork.

24500 Ramal Road, Sonoma, 707-732-2200, thedonumestate.com

Living history at Buena Vista Winery

Founded in 1857 by Agoston Haraszthy, Buena Vista is the second-oldest winery in California and is often referred to as the oldest premium winery in the state. (The oldest winery in California is D’Agostini Winery, which was founded in 1856.)

Haraszthy, a vivacious and eccentric pioneer, immigrated from Europe in 1840 in search of the good life. Following in the footsteps of the forty-niners, he found the perfect terroir for “purple gold” and, as the self-proclaimed “Count of Buena Vista,” he established a reputation as an experimental vintner, a shrewd businessman and a flamboyant evangelist. (He died as he had lived — dramatically — in an alligator-infested river in the jungles of Nicaragua.)

The legend of Haraszthy and his winery is now recreated by Buena Vista owner Jean-Charles Boisset, a modern-day version of the eccentric count. The best way to get a taste of the winery’s history (and some wine) is to reserve the Barrel Tasting & Winery Tour ($50), which takes visitors on a stroll through the winery grounds and into the Champagne Cellar for a taste of current release wines. Next, the tour continues into the wine caves where guests can sample wine from the barrel.

18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma, 800-926-1266, buenavistawinery.com

Horsing around among the vines at Jack London State Park

They say, “don’t drink and drive,” but can you drink and ride?

At Triple Creek Horse Outfit in Glen Ellen, the riding is sensibly taken care of before the drinking. And what a ride it is. Triple Creek offers guided horseback tours at Jack London State Historic Park in the magical Valley of the Moon. The park features fine riding trails through Jack and Charmian London’s Beauty Ranch, which wind around acres of vineyards, through open oak woodlands and under shady groves of majestic redwoods.

All Triple Creek Horse Outfit rides include a complimentary wine tasting at nearby VJB Cellars in Kenwood. The winery also has a gourmet Italian deli and sells wood-fired pizza, gelato and more. Private rides (one hour to two hours) are $145 to $225 per rider. Questions are best addressed via email at triplecrik@gmail.com. Bookings can be made online.

2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 707-888-0034, triplecreekhorseoutfit.com

Humming bees and lavender fields at Matanzas Creek Winery

Matanzas Creek Winery in Bennett Valley has been a haven for wine enthusiasts and lavender-lovers since 1991. Guests to the winery can sip sauvignon blanc on a terrace overlooking fields of lilac and amethyst; the soothingly seductive perfumes wafting in the breeze to the hum of bees shifting busily among the blossoms.

The end of June/beginning of July is prime lavender season at Matanzas Creek Winery. The fields are organically farmed and are cut, bundled and hung to barn dry after reaching full bloom. Then the dried blossoms are used in culinary, bath, body and home products sold in the winery’s lavender market.

Tastings (from $35) are by appointment. Picnic tables (with bottle service) can be reserved for two hours ($25 on weekdays; $50 on weekends). Bocce courts can be rented for two hours daily ($20 per person).

6097 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, 707-528-6464, matanzascreek.com

An all-terrain adventure at Chenoweth Wines

Of the more than 400 wineries that call Sonoma County home, the grand estates have a knack for getting all the attention. But when you make the turn onto the retired tractor-lined driveway at Chenoweth Wines, it’s the unpretentious setting that makes you happy you’ve arrived.

With 800 acres of land, from redwoods to vineyards, the Chenoweth estate offers plenty to see. But it’s how you get to see it — buckled into an all-terrain vehicle — that adds even more bragging rights to a busy day of wine tasting.

ATV tours ($125 per person) take about 1 1/2 hours and traverse the Chenoweth ranch, redwood grove and vineyards and make stops for wine tasting outdoors. At tour’s end, guests can stay and enjoy their own picnic in the redwood grove. Tours are limited to eight guests and can be booked by calling 707-829-3367 or emailing joinus@chenowethwines.com.

5550 Harrison Grade Road, Sebastopol, 707-331-2734, chenowethwines.com

A taste of history at Three Sticks Wines

The historic Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe is the longest occupied residence in Sonoma and one of the town’s few remaining buildings from California’s Mexican period.

Constructed in 1842 by Captain Salvador Vallejo (the infamous brother of General Mariano Vallejo), the adobe has been carefully restored by Three Sticks owners Bill and Eva Price, who now house a private tasting room for their Three Sticks wine label in the historic building.

Visitors can tour the adobe and take in its history while tasting a flight of pinots and chardonnays ($65) or finish the experience with a food and wine pairing prepared in partnership with the celebrated chefs at El Dorado Kitchen.

New this season is the Oysters & Chardonnay pairing ($95) that includes a flight of three single vineyard chardonnays and half a dozen oysters on the half shell (three types of oysters). Guests get to learn about terroir (how environmental factors like soil, topography and climate impact the wine) and merroir (how the bivalves’ marine surroundings influence their flavor).

143 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-996-3328, threestickswines.com

Cabernet on a cable car, Sonoma Valley Wine Trolley

Lack a designated driver? Think limousine tours are for tourists? Biking and wining a precarious pair? The Sonoma Valley Wine Trolley might just be what you’re looking for.

Built from the blueprints of an 1890s San Francisco cable car, the trolley safely trundles wine enthusiasts on a six-hour ride through Sonoma Valley.

The journey begins at Sonoma Plaza and then makes three stops at local wineries for private tasting experiences (the stops change with the seasons and include wineries such as Ravenswood, Imagery Estate, Paradise Ridge, Gloria Ferrer and B.R. Cohn).

Included in the package is a guide, a boxed lunch, views of the bucolic Wine Country landscape and plenty of bottled water. Daily Sonoma tours begin at 10:15 a.m. and end at 4:30 p.m. The tour is $125 and reservations can be made online. Tasting fees at the wineries range from $30 to $40 per person.

sonomavalleywinetrolley.com

Wine wonderland at Francis Ford Coppola Winery

Bringing the kids on a wine tasting trip may not seem the best of ideas, that is unless you are destined for Francis Ford Coppola’s winery.

The famous filmmaker’s Geyserville estate is a wonderland with wine: film memorabilia (including Don Corleone’s desk from “The Godfather”) and Oscars are on display; its two swimming pools (3,600 square feet in total) are surrounded by chaise lounges, cabanas and bocce courts; and there is always plenty of wine for the adults.

Seated tastings on the terrace are $40. Bocce courts can be reserved 11 a.m., 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Thursday-Monday. ($50 per person, plus tax; available for parties of eight to 24 guests).

Cabana reservations, which is the only way to access the pool, become available on the winery’s website in late spring. (The pool is typically open from mid-June to early October.) It is a popular place to be during summer in Wine Country, so make sure to make your cabana reservations early.

300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1400, thefamilycoppola.com

Tulips and trees at Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery

Ever experienced a tulip emergency? Healdsburg’s Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery has a tulip hotline set up in the late winter/early spring months for fans eager not to miss the winery’s 10,000 tulips in bloom.

The five-acre winery gardens also feature over 2,000 species of trees and shrubs, a variety of perennials and annuals (the tulips and daffodils take center stage in the spring), waterfalls that flow into fish-filled ponds and bronze sculptures from renowned artists Dennis Smith, Douglas Van Howd and Jane DeDecker.

The Italian/French parterre gardens accentuate classic geometric shapes. The enclosed garden at the front of Villa Fiore (the estate winery) has a parklike setting, its design more relaxed and its emphasis on color and texture.

Take in views of the gardens and surrounding vineyards from the winery’s Sycamore Grove terrace during the Wine & Brunch experience (10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Sundays; $85 per person).

The brunch includes a flight of reserve wines paired with a seasonal, Italian-inspired menu with dishes such as Prosciutto Benedict with roasted potato and estate garden greens; Yannis Sausage & Farm Fresh Egg Strata topped with Valley Ford Estero Gold Cheese; and TCHO Dark Chocolate Panna Cotta for dessert. Advance reservations and prepayments are required (reservations are refundable up to 72 hours prior to visit).

8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-6700, ferrari-carano.com

Portal to the middle ages at Castello di Amorosa

It’s no surprise that some refer to Dario Sattui, a fourth generation vintner and the man behind Castello di Amorosa, as a modern-day Don Quixote.

Some 20 years ago, Sattui began a 15-year quest to build a medieval-style Tuscan castle in Napa Valley as a place to showcase his wines. The result: a 107-room, eight-level, 121,000-square-foot castle complete with drawbridge, secret passageways, torture chamber and tasting rooms.

Seated and standing tastings ($60 and $50) give visitors access to the two main levels of the castle via a self-guided tour (strategically posted QR codes make it easy to learn about the winery at your own pace).

The Diamond Estate Tour & Reserve Wine Tasting ($70) and the Cheese & Charcuterie Wine Pairing Tour ($85) include guided tours that take visitors through the two main levels and also into the production area, underground cellars, torture chamber and armory. Reservations required for all tastings.

4045 St Helena Highway, Calistoga, 707-967-6272, castellodiamorosa.com

Gondola glides to the tune of old English bells at Sterling Vineyards

A one-of-a-kind aerial tram glides you on a 360-degree scenic ride up a tree-covered hill to the winery. Debarking at the summit, visitors can then begin to explore the chalk-white stuccoed, many-verandaed winery. Its architectural inspiration? The Greek villages on the island of Mykonos where Sterling founder, Peter Newton, once lived.

High in the towers at Sterling Vineyards are eight bells that once hung in London’s Church of St. Dunstan’s-in-the-East. When the Anglican church, founded in the Saxon 10th century, was badly damaged by the Great Fire of 1666, it was repaired and a Christopher Wren steeple added. (St. Dunstan’s was much later mortally damaged during the London Blitz in 1941.)

The bells found their way to Calistoga in the 1970s and soon visitors can continue to enjoy the timelessness of their reverberations at Sterling Vineyards.

1111 W. Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, 800-726-6136, sterlingvineyards.com

Linda Murphy and Dana Rebmann contributed to this article. 

The post 12 Unique Winery Experiences in Sonoma and Napa Wine Country appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Nothing tugs at a Swede’s gastronomic heart strings like glögg at a winter gathering. Just the thought of this Nordic version of mulled wine — scents of cinnamon, cardamom and cloves wafting through the house — can bring a tear to an expatriate’s eye. Next to the joys of a midsummer celebration, the winter glögg party may very well be one of the most nostalgia-inducing of Swedish traditions.

In Sweden, glögg parties kick off the holiday season in workplaces and homes. Abroad, the craving for glögg is the cause of IKEA pilgrimages. For Swedes, Christmastime hasn’t quite arrived until you’ve become suitably tipsy on mulled wine, paired with “lussebullar” (saffron buns) and “pepparkakor” (ginger cookies).

Now, Wine Country Swedes — immigrants like myself and those 25,128 Sonoma County residents claiming Scandinavian ancestry — can find their favorite warm winter drink at home instead of heading to the yellow and blue big box store in Emeryville or Palo Alto.

But you don’t have to be Swedish to enjoy a glass of glögg! Here are three local places that serve glögg paired with Swedish food and sweet treats this winter.

God jul (happy holidays) and skål (cheers)!

Pair glögg with Swedish food at Stockhome, Petaluma

The only Swedish restaurant in Wine Country will do its patriotic duty by putting on a traditional “julbord” — a family-friendly meal featuring holiday specialties — three consecutive Sundays in December (Dec. 4, 11 and 18, with seatings available at noon and 5 p.m. To-go julbord available Dec. 23. Tickets available online).

Swedish chef and restaurant owner Roberth Sundell will serve house-made glögg with candied almonds and raisins, a variety of pickled herring (mustard, grandma’s classic, saffron and leek), dill-cured salmon (“gravlax”), hot mustard-baked Christmas ham (“julskinka”), ginger-glazed spareribs, Swedish meatballs and more. For dessert, guests will enjoy Santa’s rice pudding and homemade treats. All menu items are made from scratch by chef Sundell, including a pig’s head terrine (“sylta”) and pâté of elk (lantpâté).

Sundell’s glögg — made from a recipe he’s been perfecting for nearly 20 years — will also be served at Stockhome throughout December.

“The secret to making good glögg is to keep tasting and adjusting the ingredients to make sure it’s not too sweet, but sweet enough to taste all the spices,” advises Sundell.

The Swedish chef likes to add vodka, cognac or brandy to his glögg for “an extra kick.” He includes plenty of cardamom, ginger, star anise, allspice and orange peel “to bring out the flavor,” and adds dried fruit (plums, apricots, raisins, dried apples) for sweetness. He emphasizes the importance of heating the glögg slowly and making sure it never boils, as this causes the alcohol to evaporate.

During the holiday season, Sundell has particularly fond memories of working at restaurants in Sweden, where glögg would be served to guests outside as they waited in the cold winter night before going inside to the warmth of the julbord.

The Swedish chef, like many of his countrymen, takes pride in keeping up culinary traditions. While he likes to incorporate foreign and modern influences into his cooking, his Stockhome julbord is a classic holiday meal, the kind you would find in a Swedish home on Christmas Eve (Swedes celebrate Christmas on Dec. 24).

Stockhome’s julbord ($90 per person; $50 for kids 5-12, free for kids 4 and under) has two seating times available — noon and 5 p.m. — on Sunday Dec. 4, 11 and 18. Reservations need to be made in advance by purchasing tickets online at stockhomerestaurant.com. Julbord is also available to-go on Dec. 23. 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511.

Sample glögg at West Wines, Healdsburg

Katarina Bonde and Bengt Åkerlind moved from Sweden to Seattle in 1992 and then made their way south to Healdsburg, where they started making wine. Their French-style wines can be found in the U.S. as well as in restaurants in their native country; their 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve was served at the 2010 Nobel Prize banquet in Stockholm.

Unable to buy glögg in the United States, Bonde has been making her own since the early ’90s. After opening the West Wines tasting room in 2011, she has been serving the drink to guests during an annual glögg party that takes place on the first weekend following Thanksgiving (this year, Nov. 25-27).

Bonde makes her glögg a couple of weeks before the party so that the flavors can blend together. In addition to the traditional ingredients — wine, brandy or cognac, cinnamon sticks, cloves and cardamom — she uses dried orange rinds and brown sugar, instead of the refined white version, as this lends extra flavor. She always saves a couple of bottles for the following year — according to Bonde, the year-old concoction tastes better than any other glögg.

“It’s my reserve,” Bonde laughs. But it’s clear that, like all Swedes, she takes glögg-making and drinking seriously. “Do not let your glögg boil,” she warns repeatedly when recounting her glögg recipe. (By now you have come to understand that boiling glögg is a Swedish cardinal sin.)

The annual glögg gathering at West Wines is one of the winery’s most popular events. Quarter Swedes, eighth Swedes; anyone who can claim even the tiniest bit of Swedish ancestry seems to show up for the party, says Bonde. And each year, there are increasing numbers of non-Nordic glögg converts. As is the Swedish custom, Bonde’s glögg is served with raisins and blanched almonds and is paired with ginger cookies, cardamom rusks (similar to biscotti) and other Swedish sweet treats.

The Healdsburg tasting room is decked with handmade ornaments, which Bonde buys in Sweden. Each year, she brings a suitcase filled with straw yule goats, advent star lights and “tomtenissar” (gnomes) on a flight from Stockholm to San Francisco.

The Swedish gnome decorations are sold to guests throughout the holiday season, in addition to being on display in the tasting room. A word of advice, though: Treat your tomtenissar (gnomes) well. According to Swedish folklore, they act as guardians of the home. If treated well, they will protect your family from evil and misfortune. But the gnomes can also be short-tempered and mischievous. They are known to play tricks — even steal — if mistreated or offended.

The West Wines annual glögg party is Nov. 25-27 from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Reservations are recommended with walk-ins based on availability (last seating is at 4 p.m). $30 tasting fee includes glögg and cookies. West Wines, 1000 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-2066, westwines.com.

Order glögg from Sjoeblom Winery, Napa

Swedish native, winemaker and “glögg master” Mike Sjöblom makes his own version of the mulled winter drink using vintage syrah wine and spices imported from Sweden. In contrast to most Swedes, who tend to use less expensive red wine for their glögg, Sjöblom stresses the advantage of being a little bit more discerning.

“To make good quality glögg, it is imperative to start with a good quality wine,” says Sjöblom, who is one of only a handful of winemakers who use their own wine to make glögg.

The Napa vintner prefers to work with natural flavors: Full-flavored wine (“to bring forward the fruit”) and organic ingredients (“to create the characteristic glögg flavor”) are carefully blended. The use of this process eliminates the need for too much sugar, according to Sjöblom.

In Sweden, there are non-alcoholic versions of glögg. While Sjöblom is “not opposed” to these alternatives, bundling them together with traditional glögg is simply “going too far” in his opinion. Like Roberth Sundell of Stockhome and Katarina Bonde of West Wines, he likes to remind aspiring glögg makers to heat their drink carefully: “Remember, alcohol starts to evaporate at 78 degrees celsius (172 F).”

Those interested in sampling Sjöblom’s glögg every year can sign up to become member of his winery’s glögg club. Club members receive a 20% discount and are guaranteed a shipment of glögg. Non-club members can buy Sjöblom’s glögg for $25 a bottle on the winery’s website.

Purchase Sjöblom glögg at gloggclub.com. 707-363-6035.

Throw your own glögg party

The following recipe is from Katarina Bonde of West Wines, who recommends using a drinkable but affordable red wine. Pair your glögg with Swedish saffron buns and ginger cookies.

West Wines Glögg

Makes 20-25 servings

2 bottles of full-bodied red wine (for example, a fairly fruity zinfandel or syrah)

1-2 cups of brandy or cognac

½ teaspoon cardamom seeds

5 cinnamon sticks (soak the cinnamon sticks in water beforehand to release the flavor)

20 cloves

2 strips of dried orange rind

1 knob fresh ginger

½ cup raisins

1 cup of sugar (brown sugar works best)

For garnish:

1 package regular raisins

1 package blanched, slivered almonds

Mix all ingredients and let simmer in a pot. Do not let it boil since the alcohol will evaporate and alcohol enhances the flavors from the spices. Let wine and spices cool off and pour into empty bottles or some other vessel that you can close. Let rest overnight and reheat when you want to use it (remember not to boil it). The glögg can be saved and used throughout the holiday season.

Serve in small cups and garnish with some raisins and almond slivers per cup. Make sure you also have teaspoons so the guests can get the soaked raisins out when they have finished the cup. They are great!

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