Spring in Sonoma County embraces us with a swirl of evocative scents: delicate citrus flowers, strawberries warmed by the sun, wisteria, and freshly cut stalks of rhubarb, one of the season’s most delightful and often overlooked treasures.

Rhubarb’s tangy and tart notes blossom with a pinch of salt. Add sugar and other spring fruit — strawberries are its ideal partner — and you have unique sweet-and-sour flavors that are both bright and delicate. But a caution is in order: The leaves of rhubarb are beautiful but poisonous, due to high amounts of oxalic acid. Add them to bouquets if you like, but never, ever eat them, though they can be safely used in mulch and compost.

Strawberry-rhubarb pies and galettes are the most familiar ways to enjoy rhubarb, but there are myriad ways to savor it. Rhubarb-leek sauce is delightful with poultry; a sauce of rhubarb and Dijon mustard makes pan-fried sand dabs sing, and rhubarb-strawberry chutney enlivens Indian curries. Rhubarb salsa is outstanding with shrimp tacos, fish tacos, tortas, and Mexican soups and stews, including pozole.

One of the simplest ways to enjoy rhubarb is in a compote with the season’s first local strawberries, a lovely addition to the table for spring holiday feasts alongside glazed ham or roasted leg of lamb. Or, if you prefer a dessert, enjoy this compote over vanilla ice cream, flan, or as a topping for cheesecake. It’s also a lovely accompaniment to freshly baked scones or with fresh cheeses such as chèvre or ricotta.

Rhubarb-Strawberry Compote

Makes about 6 to 8 servings

1 pint ripe strawberries, stemmed and diced small

1 tablespoon plus 2/3 cup granulated sugar

1 pound (3 to 4 stalks) fresh rhubarb, peeled

3 tablespoons Campari, optional

Put the strawberries into a medium bowl and sprinkle the tablespoon of sugar over them. Toss gently and set aside.

Cut the rhubarb into 1/2-inch pieces, put them into a small saucepan, add 1/3 cup of the sugar, and set over low heat. Stir with a wooden spoon until the sugar is dissolved and then continue to simmer until the rhubarb is tender but not mushy, about 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in the strawberries and any juices they have released.

Taste and add more sugar, a tablespoon or so at a time, until the sweet-tart balance is where you want it. Simmer 4 minutes more, add the Campari if using, remove from the heat, and set aside to cool.

Enjoy warm or chilled.

The post Brighten Your Springtime Feasts With This Simple Rhubarb Recipe appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Grabbing a beer with your mushroom purveyor is a point of pride for many Sonoma County chefs. And while high-profile, Michelin-favored restaurants get plenty of love for their agricultural ethos, there are also lots of neighborhood restaurateurs who wouldn’t go within 10 feet of factory-farmed, well, anything. Here’s a shoutout to a few of my farm-friendliest favorites.

The Priestess of Produce: Lunchette

Naomi Crawford doesn’t just source locally — she’s a superfan of local farms and ranches. Her Instagram (@lunchette_petaluma) is a daily reminder of the incredible bounty of Sonoma County. 25 Fourth St., Petaluma. 707-241-7443, lunchettepetaluma.com

Sea to Table: Handline

You’ll be hard-pressed to find fresher fish tacos, citrusy ceviche and raw oysters than at this casual Sebastopol café. Seasonal veggie dishes don’t take a back seat, carefully sourced from a who’s who of local farmers. Worth a pilgrimage in summer, too, for their sweet elote. 935 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol. 707-827-3744,  handline.com

Classic Comfort: Americana

Burgers, shakes and piles of pancakes are almost virtuous, with painstakingly sourced Sonoma-centric ingredients at two locations. Even the mimosas get seasonal fruit infusions. 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-755-1548; 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-827-3309. americanasonomacounty.com

Natural Pairing: The Redwood

This Sebastopol wine bar is all about not messing with what nature provides, both with the low-intervention wine list and the Mediterranean-inspired menu. Liberty Duck liver mousse, smoked black cod dip with yogurt and potato chips and warm pita bread with smoky baba ghanoush are best bets. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol. 707-861-9730, theredwoodwine.com

Snail Approved: The Spinster Sisters

One of just a handful of local chefs awarded Slow Food’s Snail of Approval, Liza Hinman walks the walk of sustainable Sonoma County ingredients cooked with care. Even a simple side of beans and greens is magical. 401 S. A St., Santa Rosa. 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com

All in the Family: Glen Ellen Star

Most of the produce at chef Ari Weiswasser’s popular bistro comes from his father-in-law Mike Benziger’s Glentucky Family Farm just up the hill. You can’t get more local than that. 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

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