Twice each year, thousands of gray whales pass along the California coast as they swim south to breeding lagoons on the west coast of Baja California during winter months, then back to their summer feeding grounds in the Arctic’s Bering Sea in spring. The round trip for these sea giants is roughly 12,000 miles and is considered one of the longest among mammals.

In 2016, NOAA estimated the eastern North Pacific gray whale population to be nearly 27,000, one of the highest recorded estimates since 1967. However, the population has been steadily decreasing in recent years — the estimate for 2024-25 was between 11,700 to 14,450 whales, according to NOAA. The agency suggests “recent and continued environmental changes in the Arctic and sub-Arctic feeding grounds could be impacting population resilience.”

As NOAA continues to monitor the Pacific whale population, Sonoma County residents can do their part, too. Docents from the Stewards of the Coast and Redwoods’ Whale Watch Program recently started a Facebook group, Sonoma Coast Whale Watch, to share educational information about whales and for the public to post current sightings. The Facebook page is dedicated to Larry Tiller, a volunteer docent for over 20 years who died in July 2025.

If you’d like to witness the whales’ inspiring journey, the peak months for whale watching are January through May. If the weather is good, whales can be seen within a few hundred yards of coastal headlands. During spring migration, even little whales are a big deal, as the recently born calves cavort with their mothers on their way back to colder waters.

Here are our favorite spots for prime whale viewing along the Sonoma Coast.

PLEASE NOTE: Always read and obey warning signs along the coast. Ocean conditions can change quickly, and the absence of a particular sign does not mean there is no threat of hazardous conditions. Always keep a safe distance to the ocean and be careful when looking through binoculars and taking photos while near steep bluffs.

Gualala Point Regional Park

Bordering the Gualala River and Mendocino County, this oceanfront park marks the northernmost point on the Sonoma Coast. During whale migration season, many visitors will head to Whale Watch Point, which offers excellent views of the ocean, weather permitting. Parking is $8; free for regional park members. 42401 Highway 1, Gualala, parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Sea Ranch Coastal Access Trails

Just south of Gualala, The Sea Ranch extends for 10 miles along the Sonoma Coast. The headlands here offer views of the sea, the rugged coastline, and — if you’re lucky — migrating whales. The Sea Ranch is a private community but six public access trails, managed by Sonoma County Regional Parks, give visitors a chance to experience this area and catch a glimpse of its wildlife. Parking is free. The Sea Ranch, off Highway 1 south of Gualala, parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Stillwater Cove Regional Park

About 15 miles south of the Sea Ranch, Stillwater Cove features hiking trails through redwood forests and along ocean bluffs. Just north of the cove, the Stillwater Bluff Trail curves above the rocky coastline and offers views of the Pacific and a vista point for whale watching. Parking is $8; free for regional park members. 22455 Highway 1, Jenner, parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Bodega Head

One of the prime whale-watching spots in Sonoma County, the steep and rocky bluffs of this peninsula offer sweeping views of the ocean. January through May, volunteers from the Whale Watch public education program are stationed in this part of the Sonoma Coast State Park on weekends (10 a.m. to 2 p.m.) to answer questions and share their knowledge about whales. By early summer of 2026, the Stewards of the Coast and Redwoods plan to expand the program to include humpbacks, which migrate to the Sonoma Coast area to feed from about July to October, according to Whale Watch docent program coordinator Jenifer Piccinini. Parking is free. Off Highway 1, Bodega Bay, parks.ca.gov

Whale watch from a boat, Bodega Bay

For a chance to get closer to the whales, while remaining at a safe distance, book a whale watching tour with a local fishing charter company. Companies like Bodega Bay Sportfishing and Miss Vic Sportfishing offer tours departing from Bodega Bay. Rates for Miss Vic’s whale watching charters are $600 for four to six people.

For more winter adventures, check out our guide to local waterfalls. 

The post Where to Go Whale Watching on the Sonoma Coast appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

The pace of the Russian River sets the leisurely tempo of west Sonoma County life. In this laid-back enclave of eccentric cabins, nestled among redwoods and fir-covered hills, you are bound to find your own rhythm.

Float down the river with us to discover where to stay, play and dine in relaxed Russian River style.

Getting Here

Access the Russian River area by flying into Santa Rosa’s Charles M. Schulz airport, or drive up Highway 1 from San Francisco. If you’re driving, make a few stops along the coast — Stinson Beach, Point Reyes National Seashore and Tomales Bay. Do some Birds’ watching in Bodega, then ride up the scenic Bohemian Highway.

Settle In

Make Guerneville the jumping off point for your Russian River expedition — the longtime bohemian refuge of Forestville is just a stone’s throw away, as is the “vacation wonderland” of Monte Rio. Guerneville’s comforting early morning fog, the rolling river and its proximity to the Sonoma Coast make the place a dream destination for those wanting to kick back and get pleasantly lost. Guerneville’s colorful collection of residents, its eclectic variation of visitors and varied array of storefronts reflect the archaeology of the town’s recent history: timber town, then hippie haven, then gay retreat and hip getaway.

Camp in style at AutoCamp, Guerneville

Promising “no-fuss” hospitality, AutoCamp’s mid-century modern glamping site features 24 custom Airstream trailers, 10 fully equipped luxury tents and a Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired pavilion. Guests can enjoy art installations, bocce courts and other outdoor games, along with specialty bikes, canoes and tennis. 14120 Old Cazadero Road, 855-942-0792, autocamp.com

Stay in an eco-friendly oasis at Boon Hotel + Spa, Guerneville

Named after owner Crista Luedtke’s canine companion, Boon offers quintessential Guerneville lodgings — a tasteful blend of old and new. The hotel grounds once housed the local mercury miner community; the hotel has gone through a series of transformations since the 1970s. In 2008, Luedtke created an eco-friendly oasis of minimalist modern cottages that promises to “unclutter your mind and allow your body to rest.” 14711 Armstrong Woods Road, 707-869-2721, boonhotels.com

Sleep in luxury at Dawn Ranch, Guerneville

This classic river resort reopened Memorial Day weekend after a luxury revamp in 2023, and in the spring of 2024 it was named in Esquire’s “41 Best New Hotels in North America and Europe.” 16467 Highway 116, 707-869-0656, dawnranch.com

Get five-star treatment with a family feel at Farmhouse Inn, Forestville

Run by brother-and-sister team Catherine and Joe Bartolomei, the Farmhouse Inn offers all the warmth and hospitality of a family-owned B&B while providing the high-end services and amenities of a five-star luxury hotel. Located just 8 miles east of Guerneville, the inn houses a Michelin-starred restaurant and offers a variety of accommodations, from high-ceiling barn rooms to bungalow-style heritage rooms. 7871 River Road, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com

Camp riverside at Johnson’s Beach, Guerneville

Johnson’s Beach, a Sonoma County summer destination for nearly 100 years, offers a variety of rental accommodations: a four-bedroom, two-bathroom main lodge overlooking the river, or rustic cabins dating to the 1920s. “Urban camping” at the beach is another popular option. 16215 and 16217 First St., johnsonsbeach.com

Relax on the Russian River

If your idea of a river experience is strenuous rafting, you’ve come to the wrong place. The Russian River is best enjoyed by lying lazily back in a canoe, kayak or float tube. Bring a beach blanket and stop to savor the sun at one of the many hidden beaches along the river. For rental river requirements and recommendations, visit Burke’s Canoe Trips in Forestville or King’s Sport and Tackle in Guerneville. Beaches along the Russian River, in west Sonoma County, include Steelhead Beach Regional Park in Forestville, Forestville River Access (Mom’s Beach) and Sunset Beach River Park. In Healdsburg, the Veterans Memorial Beach has lifeguards on duty and picnic areas.

Browse Guerneville Main Street stores (and side streets)

Rustic, renovated and retro storefronts line Guerneville’s Main Street and make it an eclectic shopper’s paradise. Start with a visit to Sonoma Nesting Company to pick up some local treasures for your home, then head on to dime store institution 5 & 10 for cheaper “collectibles” and Second’s First for some vintage clothing.

Try famous biscuits at Piknik Town Market, Guerneville

Though Big Bottom Market was sold in 2023 and reopened as Piknik Town Market, new owner Margaret van der Veen assured fans that the Market’s world-famous biscuits are still baked daily. The spot also offers salads, sandwiches, gourmet groceries and picnic provisions, including to-go picnic boxes. 16228 Main St., 707-604-7295, pikniktownmarket.com

Enjoy homemade pastries on the patio at Gold Coast Coffee, Duncans Mills

This cozy coffee shop is located in the historic hamlet Duncans Mills (once a stop on the Northwestern Pacific Railroad to Sausalito). Stop in for a cup of their finest house-roasted coffee and pair it with a homemade pastry baked in the cafe’s wood-fired oven (which also bakes great tasting pizza!) and then enjoy breakfast on the deck. 25377 Steelhead Blvd., 707-865-1441, goldcoastcoffeebakery.com

Breakfast at hidden gem Cape Fear Cafe, Duncans Mills

Cape Fear Cafe in Duncans Mills is one of “the best hidden gem restaurants” in Sonoma County, according to dining editor Heather Irwin. If you’re craving some California cuisine with southern flair for breakfast, we recommend pairing the Charleston Benedict — grilled shrimp and prosciutto, two poached eggs and lemon hollandaise — with a classic mimosa. 25191 Main St., 707-865-9246, capefearcafe.com

Enjoy bistro fare, California-style, at Boon Eat + Drink, Guerneville

A year after opening Boon Hotel + Spa, Crista Luedtke launched this Guerneville bistro which pairs modern California cuisine with Boon’s pared-down decor and minimalist philosophy. The proof of her success can be seen in the lines that form on the sidewalk outside the restaurant. 16248 Main St., 707-869-0780, eatatboon.com

Order cannolis at Canneti Roadhouse Italiana, Forestville

Canneti chef Francesco Torre grew up sampling his grandma Fina’s cooking in the Tuscan coastal town of Massa. Like Grandma Fina, Torres puts a lot of love into every plate he prepares; the locally sourced menu showcases food akin to the rustic variety that he enjoyed in his childhood.

Named after Via de Canetti, a winding rural road in Torres’ childhood Tuscany, Canneti’s decor is roadhouse simple, almost industrial: rough brick walls, farmhouse wood tables and chairs. The ambiance is warm and welcoming, and there’s patio in the back for a relaxed meal beneath the trees. 6675 Front St., 707-887-2232, cannetiroadhouse.com

Go foraging through the Forestville Farmers Market

From spring through summer, between 4:30-7:30 p.m. every Tuesday, the Forestville Farmers Market livens up the sleepy downtown with local produce, artisanal products, baked goods, arts, crafts, drinks, live music and dancing. A nice place to relax and recharge after a day on the river, sipping on a local brew under the oak trees. 6990 Front St., forestvillechamber.org/forestville-farmers-market

Have wine and ice cream at Guerneville Bank Club

The restored Guerneville Bank Club (circa 1921) offers an interesting mix of art shows, local wines, housemade ice cream and home accessories. The ice cream is the work of Nimble & Finn’s — flavors include lavender honeycomb and Meyer lemon olive oil with chocolate chunks. 16290 Main St., 707-666-9411, guernevillebankclub.com

Sip on a cold one at Stumptown, Guerneville

The real gem at this Guerneville brewery, aside from the great beers, is the expansive outdoor deck, overlooking the Russian River. Spend a sunny Saturday sipping on a beer sampler or the “Donkey Punch,” a refreshing hoppy lager with a kick and a thick body. A great pit stop on the way to the river or the coast. Plus, they have a wood-fired pizza oven and host trivia nights every Wednesday. 15045 River Road, 707-869-0705, stumptown.com, instagram.com/stumptownbrewery

Find free tours and tastings at Korbel Champagne Cellars, Guerneville

As the only Champagne producers in the Bay Area since the late 1800s, Korbel has earned a reputation in the county for its old world charm and first-class bubbles. The winery’s Champagne even made it to the table at former president Barack Obama’s inaugural luncheon, a Korbel tradition for presidential inaugurations dating back to the 1980s. Korbel offers free walking tours of its historic museum and cellars, which includes a complimentary Champagne tasting. 13250 River Road, 707-824-7000, korbel.com

Stay up late with the locals at Rainbow Cattle Co., Guerneville

“The Rainbow,” as locals call it, has been a Guerneville fixture since the late 1970s. The LGBTQ+ community gathering spot is one of only a few Sonoma County bars that remain open until early morning hours, closing at 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. 16220 Main St., 707-869-0206, queersteer.com

Sip some Russian River Valley wine

The Russian River Valley is known for cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — favorite wineries to visit include Gary Farrell Winery in Healdsburg, Ryme Cellars in Forestville (actress Elizabeth Olsen’s favorite spot) and Hartford Family Winery, also in Forestville. Here are five more must-visit wineries between Forestville and Sebastopol.

Stroll among gentle giants, Guerneville

Avoid Muir Woods’ Instagramming tourists by experiencing the majesty of the redwoods in Armstrong Woods’ relatively remote location near Guerneville. Magnificent, 1,200-year-old Sequoia sempervirens, commonly known as coastal redwoods, tower in a way that makes humans feel very small and very serene. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, 707-869-2015, parks.ca.gov

Don your Stetson at the River Rodeo, Duncans Mills

Watch cowboys wrestling calfs and riding bulls at the top notch professional Russian River Rodeo held in Duncan Mills every June. 23450 Moscow Road

See natural pieces of art at Goat Rock State Beach, Jenner

Just south of the point where the Russian River meets the Pacific, this Sonoma Coast gem offers the kind of scenic beauty that only the powerful forces of nature can create: wild waves crashing against promontories have carved the rocky coastal landscape into abstract shapes and forms. Among these rugged structures are natural arches formed by the force of water eroding weaker strata of the rock formations. Goat Rock Road off Highway 1. 707-875-3483, parks.ca.gov

Watch the sunset at River’s End, Jenner

Finally, as a romantic finale to your Russian River retreat, dine in style where the river meets the sea and watch the sun set on the Western horizon. The website URL for River’s End restaurant and inn is, very suitably, ilovesunsets.com. 11048 Highway 1, 707-865-2484 

The post Favorite Things To Do by the Russian River appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

When you live in Sonoma County, you’re never lonely for out-of-town visitors. Family, friends, college roommates, even casual acquaintances are all eager to catch up with you and take in all that the region offers.

Now through New Year’s is high season for house guests, with the number of invading out-of-towners larger than the kids’ gift lists. For local hosts, it can be a challenge deciding where to take restless visitors, especially those on a budget. Farm-to-table restaurants and taquerias are a given. Winery tasting rooms? Natch.

Go any direction in Sonoma County, and you will wind up somewhere intriguing. You’re never far from good food, natural beauty and wine tasting. But with so many choices, we’ve creamed off a few foolproof excursions that will fill up a day and make your guests’ stay in Sonoma County more memorable.

Click through the gallery for a four-day itinerary that includes some not-so-obvious explorations of Sonoma County, guaranteed to please your guests as much as you.

Meg McConahey contributed to this article. 

Day 1: Into the Armstrong Woods and to the coast

Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve in Guerneville is a great place to introduce visitors to the natural superlatives of Sonoma County. Magnificent, 1,200-year-old Sequoia sempervirens, commonly known as coastal redwoods, tower in a way that makes humans feel very small and very serene. Redwoods are among the natural wonders of the world and among the planet’s oldest living organisms. And they’re an easy drive from anywhere in the county.

The Armstrong reserve features a 1½-mile, ADA-accessible trail, making this an easy outdoors experience for everyone in your group. Arrive early and with jackets to combat the marine chill. At 7:45 a.m., you’ll find an empty parking lot and the quiet woods, sans Segways and smartphone selfie-taking hordes. By contrast, visitors to Marin’s Muir Woods have to make a reservation.

After an hour among the gentle giants, depart as the parking lot begins to fill. Those arriving have had their breakfast, so now it’s time for yours. Coffee Bazaar in Guerneville provides house-roasted coffee and pastries. Or drive a little farther west, along the Russian River, to Duncans Mills’ Gold Coast Coffee and Bakery.

Founded in 1877, Duncans Mills is a quaint station on the way to the coast from the river towns, with a charming general store and a depot museum next to where the Northwestern Pacific Railroad once ran. If you still have Christmas shopping to do, then Duncans Mills is a good place to browse. Don’t miss Jim Raidl’s Jim and Willies, a real curiosity shop of quirky antiques and curios with a friendly proprietor.

On the road again, continue west. For some sea air and wide-open ocean views to amaze visitors from land-locked places, stop at the Vista Trail in Jenner at the mouth of the Russian River. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot some harbor seals.

After watching waves crash in the fresh sea air, you’ll be ready for the drive south on Highway 1 to Bodega Bay. This is the classic Sonoma Coast scene of crashing waves, and trails along the bluff are accessible to most people. Check out the whimsical wind spinners at Candy & Kites, the colorful array of saltwater taffy at Patrick’s and the Japanese prints at Ren Brown Collection Fine Art Gallery.

Start heading inland for a hit of Alfred Hitchcock in the tiny town of Bodega. Snap a “The Birds” selfie outside the old Potter School, immortalized in the scene where schoolchildren run screaming and flailing from their classroom. It’s a private residence, so stay on the road. Then swing by the nearby Saint Teresa of Avila Church, also featured in the film.

You’ll be hungry by now. For lunch, consider the Estero Cafe in Valley Ford just a few minutes’ drive away. The restaurant pays homage to local farmers with its hand-lettered chalkboard menus and homestyle food. Its inventive brunches, sandwiches and salads make it one of the county’s top foodie destinations.

Day 2: Healdsburg for the holidays

Start your day by taking in one of the most spectacular gems of Sonoma County — Lake Sonoma. Then head to Healdsburg (a 10-minute drive) for a leisurely breakfast at Costeaux French Bakery.

Costeaux French Bakery is a frequent winner in baking competitions, and its fresh breads are served in Sonoma restaurants. But not many people know that Costeaux serves great breakfasts and lunches.

After breakfast, let the bookworms and audiophiles in the group browse the fiction, vinyl and CD selection at Levin & Company. Take the stairs to the mezzanine for its collection of local art, jewelry and crafts. Next, visit the antique markets — like Shoffeitt’s Off the Square and Antique Harvest — all within easy walking distance of the plaza.

No Healdsburg visit is complete without a winery stop, or two. Lambert Bridge boasts a tasting room with a large fireplace, making it a cozy place for sipping wines in colder months. The Healdsburg Bubble Bar, nestled in a quaint 1906 Queen Anne Victorian near the plaza, offers a wide assortment of sparkling wines.

As the sun goes down, head to Barndiva for a craft cocktail and dinner, and watch the outdoor lights twinkle over the quirky art on the patio. Don’t miss the eclectic collection of British Cigarette Cards at the Gallery Bar.

Day 3: In search of lost time, and more wine, in Sonoma Valley

Winter is a good time to check out the new museum exhibit in Jack London State Historic Park. Even if it’s too cold or wet to hike, you can take cover in the House of Happy Walls museum dedicated to the great writer and his wife, Charmian.

Right outside the park gate, Benziger Family Winery offers vineyard tram tours that will get you out of the tasting room and among the vines, which have their own sculpted beauty in winter.

Make it an outdoorsy day at Sonoma Botanical Garden, one of Sonoma County’s secret spots. Few travel writers have discovered it, meaning you may have this 20-acre garden of rare Asian plants all to yourself. Easy paths wind past ponds and through dense plantings of trees and shrubs with something of interest in every season. There is a nice gift shop for garden lovers as well as golf cart tours by arrangement for those with mobility problems.

In the town of Sonoma, the walkable square offers places to sip, shop and dine. For celebratory sparkles during the holidays, there’s SIGH Champagne bar. No reservations needed, and they always offer three flights of French, Californian and other tantalizing sparklers. If you have teetotalers or beer drinkers in your party, this is a great tasting room option. They also offer draft beer, regular wine and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as snack-sized bites, both savory and sweet.

Sonoma Plaza offers holiday cheer and attractions for history buffs, from the Sonoma Mission to the barracks and Toscano Hotel, all within two blocks. There’s a big parking lot behind the barracks on First Street East.

When you’re ready for a bite to eat, consider Tasca Tasca (TT Tapas). Tasca stands for tavern or pub in Portugal. Chef Manuel Azevedo offers updated Portuguese tapas with a fresh Sonoma spin. They’re also open late. Or head down Broadway to HopMonk Tavern for bar bites and beer, washed down with live music on the weekends.

Day 4: Petaluma, Sebastopol and a farm-to-table finale in Forestville

The age of Petaluma, settled in the 1850s, might not impress visitors from Europe, but the downtown’s quaint storefronts, heritage homes and retro memorabilia will make even your English uncle or Swedish aunt melt. But first, start with breakfast at Della Fattoria, one of the country’s finest bread bakers, famous for its Meyer lemon rosemary boule. Try the breakfast toast with ricotta cheese, banana slices, toasted pecans and honey.

Downtown, check out the vintage guitars and mandolins at Tall Toad Music and the 1,800 varieties of heirloom seeds at The Seed Bank, owned by Baker Creek, one of the country’s leading purveyors of heirloom seed.

For the afternoon, get behind the wheel and drive the 17 miles to Sebastopol’s The Barlow. Designed to look like old farm industrial buildings — without the dirt and rust — this marketplace is good for browsing. Watch local makers in action at restaurants, wineries, breweries and cideries, and art, jewelry, glass, crafts, design and clothing studios.

If you want to arrange for a farm-to-table grand finale, you could make reservations at Farmhouse Inn’s upscale but surprisingly low-key Michelin-starred restaurant in Forestville. For a more affordable but still delicious option, Farmhouse Inn’s casual eatery Farmstand serves woodfired dishes and pizza.

The post Holiday Guests Coming? Here Are 4 Perfect Sonoma County Day Trips appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Weary, somewhat bleary of the spin-sniff-sip-swallow-or-spit wine tasting experience? These Sonoma and Napa wineries offer a little something extra to pair with your cabernet.

Medieval fortresses and parterre gardens, swimming pools and outdoor art galleries, riding horses and trolleys — there’s plenty of reason to venture outside the tasting room on your next Wine Country trip.

A trip to Germany at Schug Carneros Estate Winery

French, Italian and Spanish accents abound at Sonoma and Napa wineries, so a visit to Walter Schug’s German-styled winery in Carneros is as refreshing as a trocken riesling.

Schug, who died in 2015 at age 80, grew up at Staatsweingut Assmannshausen in Germany’s Rhine Valley. Bit by the winegrowing bug, he eventually made his way to Napa Valley, as winemaker for Joseph Phelps Winery. In 1983, he founded his own winery estate yard in Sonoma Carneros, the production facility and tasting room designed with the peaked roof and timber framing typical in the Rhine. All the original winemaking equipment came from Germany and some of it remains, most strikingly the 669-gallon wood oval aging casks, some of them elaborately carved.

Riesling is no longer in the Schug repertoire, the grape not ideally suited to Sonoma’s sunny climate. Instead, Schug took the pinot noir (spatburgunder) route, adding chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and other varietals to the mix. His children continue the business, with German-American Johannes Scheid the winemaker.

The Cave Tour & Tasting Experience ($75) includes a walk around the property and through the production area and caves, followed by a seated tasting of current-release and Heritage Reserve wines, served with snacks.

602 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-939-9363, schugwinery.com

Outdoor art gallery at The Donum Estate

Wineries have long been places for visitors to view art and photography on the walls of tasting rooms. Sculptures welcome guests at estate entrances and within sight of tasters.

Now, Donum has taken artistic displays well beyond the usual, dotting its 200-acre Carneros estate with 50-some large-scale, open-air sculptures from artists including Ai Weiwei, Keith Haring, Subodh Gupta and Doug Aitken. Adding to the high-end artistry: the tasting area designed by Danish architect David Thulstrup, known for his interior design of world-class Noma restaurant in Copenhagen.

The basic way to enjoy Donum is to book its Carneros Experience ($95), which includes a walking tour of the estate and tastes of its rosé, chardonnay and pinot noir. The Explore Experience ($175) is a two-hour, all-terrain-vehicle tour of the estate and tasting of wines served with seasonal bites and, of course, views of the artwork.

24500 Ramal Road, Sonoma, 707-732-2200, thedonumestate.com

Living history at Buena Vista Winery

Founded in 1857 by Agoston Haraszthy, Buena Vista is the second-oldest winery in California and is often referred to as the oldest premium winery in the state. (The oldest winery in California is D’Agostini Winery, which was founded in 1856.)

Haraszthy, a vivacious and eccentric pioneer, immigrated from Europe in 1840 in search of the good life. Following in the footsteps of the forty-niners, he found the perfect terroir for “purple gold” and, as the self-proclaimed “Count of Buena Vista,” he established a reputation as an experimental vintner, a shrewd businessman and a flamboyant evangelist. (He died as he had lived — dramatically — in an alligator-infested river in the jungles of Nicaragua.)

The legend of Haraszthy and his winery is now recreated by Buena Vista owner Jean-Charles Boisset, a modern-day version of the eccentric count. The best way to get a taste of the winery’s history (and some wine) is to reserve the Barrel Tasting & Winery Tour ($50), which takes visitors on a stroll through the winery grounds and into the Champagne Cellar for a taste of current release wines. Next, the tour continues into the wine caves where guests can sample wine from the barrel.

18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma, 800-926-1266, buenavistawinery.com

Horsing around among the vines at Jack London State Park

They say, “don’t drink and drive,” but can you drink and ride?

At Triple Creek Horse Outfit in Glen Ellen, the riding is sensibly taken care of before the drinking. And what a ride it is. Triple Creek offers guided horseback tours at Jack London State Historic Park in the magical Valley of the Moon. The park features fine riding trails through Jack and Charmian London’s Beauty Ranch, which wind around acres of vineyards, through open oak woodlands and under shady groves of majestic redwoods.

All Triple Creek Horse Outfit rides include a complimentary wine tasting at nearby VJB Cellars in Kenwood. The winery also has a gourmet Italian deli and sells wood-fired pizza, gelato and more. Private rides (one hour to two hours) are $145 to $225 per rider. Questions are best addressed via email at triplecrik@gmail.com. Bookings can be made online.

2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 707-888-0034, triplecreekhorseoutfit.com

Humming bees and lavender fields at Matanzas Creek Winery

Matanzas Creek Winery in Bennett Valley has been a haven for wine enthusiasts and lavender-lovers since 1991. Guests to the winery can sip sauvignon blanc on a terrace overlooking fields of lilac and amethyst; the soothingly seductive perfumes wafting in the breeze to the hum of bees shifting busily among the blossoms.

The end of June/beginning of July is prime lavender season at Matanzas Creek Winery. The fields are organically farmed and are cut, bundled and hung to barn dry after reaching full bloom. Then the dried blossoms are used in culinary, bath, body and home products sold in the winery’s lavender market.

Tastings (from $35) are by appointment. Picnic tables (with bottle service) can be reserved for two hours ($25 on weekdays; $50 on weekends). Bocce courts can be rented for two hours daily ($20 per person).

6097 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, 707-528-6464, matanzascreek.com

An all-terrain adventure at Chenoweth Wines

Of the more than 400 wineries that call Sonoma County home, the grand estates have a knack for getting all the attention. But when you make the turn onto the retired tractor-lined driveway at Chenoweth Wines, it’s the unpretentious setting that makes you happy you’ve arrived.

With 800 acres of land, from redwoods to vineyards, the Chenoweth estate offers plenty to see. But it’s how you get to see it — buckled into an all-terrain vehicle — that adds even more bragging rights to a busy day of wine tasting.

ATV tours ($125 per person) take about 1 1/2 hours and traverse the Chenoweth ranch, redwood grove and vineyards and make stops for wine tasting outdoors. At tour’s end, guests can stay and enjoy their own picnic in the redwood grove. Tours are limited to eight guests and can be booked by calling 707-829-3367 or emailing joinus@chenowethwines.com.

5550 Harrison Grade Road, Sebastopol, 707-331-2734, chenowethwines.com

A taste of history at Three Sticks Wines

The historic Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe is the longest occupied residence in Sonoma and one of the town’s few remaining buildings from California’s Mexican period.

Constructed in 1842 by Captain Salvador Vallejo (the infamous brother of General Mariano Vallejo), the adobe has been carefully restored by Three Sticks owners Bill and Eva Price, who now house a private tasting room for their Three Sticks wine label in the historic building.

Visitors can tour the adobe and take in its history while tasting a flight of pinots and chardonnays ($65) or finish the experience with a food and wine pairing prepared in partnership with the celebrated chefs at El Dorado Kitchen.

New this season is the Oysters & Chardonnay pairing ($95) that includes a flight of three single vineyard chardonnays and half a dozen oysters on the half shell (three types of oysters). Guests get to learn about terroir (how environmental factors like soil, topography and climate impact the wine) and merroir (how the bivalves’ marine surroundings influence their flavor).

143 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-996-3328, threestickswines.com

Cabernet on a cable car, Sonoma Valley Wine Trolley

Lack a designated driver? Think limousine tours are for tourists? Biking and wining a precarious pair? The Sonoma Valley Wine Trolley might just be what you’re looking for.

Built from the blueprints of an 1890s San Francisco cable car, the trolley safely trundles wine enthusiasts on a six-hour ride through Sonoma Valley.

The journey begins at Sonoma Plaza and then makes three stops at local wineries for private tasting experiences (the stops change with the seasons and include wineries such as Ravenswood, Imagery Estate, Paradise Ridge, Gloria Ferrer and B.R. Cohn).

Included in the package is a guide, a boxed lunch, views of the bucolic Wine Country landscape and plenty of bottled water. Daily Sonoma tours begin at 10:15 a.m. and end at 4:30 p.m. The tour is $125 and reservations can be made online. Tasting fees at the wineries range from $30 to $40 per person.

sonomavalleywinetrolley.com

Wine wonderland at Francis Ford Coppola Winery

Bringing the kids on a wine tasting trip may not seem the best of ideas, that is unless you are destined for Francis Ford Coppola’s winery.

The famous filmmaker’s Geyserville estate is a wonderland with wine: film memorabilia (including Don Corleone’s desk from “The Godfather”) and Oscars are on display; its two swimming pools (3,600 square feet in total) are surrounded by chaise lounges, cabanas and bocce courts; and there is always plenty of wine for the adults.

Seated tastings on the terrace are $40. Bocce courts can be reserved 11 a.m., 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Thursday-Monday. ($50 per person, plus tax; available for parties of eight to 24 guests).

Cabana reservations, which is the only way to access the pool, become available on the winery’s website in late spring. (The pool is typically open from mid-June to early October.) It is a popular place to be during summer in Wine Country, so make sure to make your cabana reservations early.

300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1400, thefamilycoppola.com

Tulips and trees at Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery

Ever experienced a tulip emergency? Healdsburg’s Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery has a tulip hotline set up in the late winter/early spring months for fans eager not to miss the winery’s 10,000 tulips in bloom.

The five-acre winery gardens also feature over 2,000 species of trees and shrubs, a variety of perennials and annuals (the tulips and daffodils take center stage in the spring), waterfalls that flow into fish-filled ponds and bronze sculptures from renowned artists Dennis Smith, Douglas Van Howd and Jane DeDecker.

The Italian/French parterre gardens accentuate classic geometric shapes. The enclosed garden at the front of Villa Fiore (the estate winery) has a parklike setting, its design more relaxed and its emphasis on color and texture.

Take in views of the gardens and surrounding vineyards from the winery’s Sycamore Grove terrace during the Wine & Brunch experience (10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Sundays; $85 per person).

The brunch includes a flight of reserve wines paired with a seasonal, Italian-inspired menu with dishes such as Prosciutto Benedict with roasted potato and estate garden greens; Yannis Sausage & Farm Fresh Egg Strata topped with Valley Ford Estero Gold Cheese; and TCHO Dark Chocolate Panna Cotta for dessert. Advance reservations and prepayments are required (reservations are refundable up to 72 hours prior to visit).

8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-6700, ferrari-carano.com

Portal to the middle ages at Castello di Amorosa

It’s no surprise that some refer to Dario Sattui, a fourth generation vintner and the man behind Castello di Amorosa, as a modern-day Don Quixote.

Some 20 years ago, Sattui began a 15-year quest to build a medieval-style Tuscan castle in Napa Valley as a place to showcase his wines. The result: a 107-room, eight-level, 121,000-square-foot castle complete with drawbridge, secret passageways, torture chamber and tasting rooms.

Seated and standing tastings ($60 and $50) give visitors access to the two main levels of the castle via a self-guided tour (strategically posted QR codes make it easy to learn about the winery at your own pace).

The Diamond Estate Tour & Reserve Wine Tasting ($70) and the Cheese & Charcuterie Wine Pairing Tour ($85) include guided tours that take visitors through the two main levels and also into the production area, underground cellars, torture chamber and armory. Reservations required for all tastings.

4045 St Helena Highway, Calistoga, 707-967-6272, castellodiamorosa.com

Gondola glides to the tune of old English bells at Sterling Vineyards

A one-of-a-kind aerial tram glides you on a 360-degree scenic ride up a tree-covered hill to the winery. Debarking at the summit, visitors can then begin to explore the chalk-white stuccoed, many-verandaed winery. Its architectural inspiration? The Greek villages on the island of Mykonos where Sterling founder, Peter Newton, once lived.

High in the towers at Sterling Vineyards are eight bells that once hung in London’s Church of St. Dunstan’s-in-the-East. When the Anglican church, founded in the Saxon 10th century, was badly damaged by the Great Fire of 1666, it was repaired and a Christopher Wren steeple added. (St. Dunstan’s was much later mortally damaged during the London Blitz in 1941.)

The bells found their way to Calistoga in the 1970s and soon visitors can continue to enjoy the timelessness of their reverberations at Sterling Vineyards.

1111 W. Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, 800-726-6136, sterlingvineyards.com

Linda Murphy and Dana Rebmann contributed to this article. 

The post 12 Unique Winery Experiences in Sonoma and Napa Wine Country appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Dreaming of a coastal getaway? Check into these gorgeous hotels along Highway 1 in Sonoma, Marin and Mendocino counties. Take a walk on the beach, go surfing, eat oysters or just relax with a tasty glass of wine and someone special by your side. Click through the gallery above for eight favorite places to stay on the coast.

Sofia Englund, Maci Martell and Sarah Stierch contributed to this article. 

The post 8 Gorgeous Waterfront Hotels on the Sonoma-Marin-Mendocino Coast appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

“Lavender month” is lavishly celebrated in Sonoma County in purple fields and with lavender-infused dishes and drinks. Click through the gallery above for some of the best ways to enjoy the fragrant flower in June and throughout the year, and check out the recipes below for some lavender treats from Chef Sondra Bernstein of the Girl and the Fig restaurant in Sonoma.

Lavender Mojito by Sondra Bernstein

Makes 2 cocktails

4 ounces light rum
16–20 fresh mint leaves
Juice of 2 limes
2 ounces Lavender Simple Syrup
Club Soda
Lavender sugar rim or lavender sprigs, for garnish

Muddle the mint leaves in the bottom of a pint glass. Add the rum, lime juice, and lavender simple syrup and muddle a bit more. Add the ice, stir, and top with a splash of Club Soda. Garnish with a lime wedge, mint leaves or a lavender sprig.

Lavender Simple Syrup

1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons culinary lavender

In a saucepot, bring 1 cup of water, sugar, and lavender to a boil. simmer until the sugar has completely dissolved. Turn off the heat and let sit until cool. strain the mixture through a fine mesh strainer and discard the lavender. Store the lavender simple syrup in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

Note: Adjust the amount of lavender and the steeping time based on the strength of the lavender and your personal taste.

Lavender Sugar

½ cup superfine sugar
¼ cup culinary lavender

Place lavender and sugar in a coffee grinder and grind to a fine dust.

Goat Cheese & Lavender-Honey Toasts by Sondra Bernstein

Makes about 50 nibbles

½ cup honey
1 tablespoon culinary lavender (save a pinch for garnish)
1 cup fresh goat cheese
¼ cup heavy cream

Place the honey and lavender in a medium saucepot over medium heat. Let the lavender steep in the honey until you have reached the desired intensity. Strain the lavender and set aside.

Place the goat cheese and cream in a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Add the lavender honey to taste (about 5 tablespoons). Whisk until the mixture is light.

Place the goat cheese mixture on a toasted baguette or cracker of your choice. Drizzle with the honey and garnish with the reserved lavender.

Lavender Crème Brûlée by Sondra Bernstein

Serves 6

2 ¼ cups heavy cream
¾ cup whole milk
3 to 4 sprigs fresh lavender or 1½ tablespoons dried culinary lavender, plus additional for garnish
8 large egg yolks
½ cup sugar plus about 4 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons wildflower honey

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Place the cream and milk in a saucepan and add the lavender. Bring to a boil and turn off the heat. Let the lavender steep for about 15 minutes or until the milk has a lavender flavor. (For a stronger flavor, allow the lavender to steep longer.)

Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks, ½ cup sugar, and honey until smooth. Whisk it into the lavender-cream mixture. Strain though a fine-mesh sieve and skim off any foam. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.

Pour the mixture into 6 ramekins or brûlée dishes. Set the ramekins in a baking pan and add enough hot water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the baking pan with foil and bake for 40 minutes or until set. (The custards are done when they stop jiggling.) Remove the baking pan from the oven and allow the ramekins to cool in the water bath for 5 minutes. Refrigerate, covered, for at least three hours or overnight.

Before serving, sprinkle the tops of the ramekins with a few teaspoons of sugar and caramelize with a small torch or under a broiler set on high.

Sofia Englund, Karen Kizer and Meg McConahey contributed to this article. 

The post A Lavender Lover’s Guide to Sonoma County appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

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When Kelsey and Mike Sheofsky dreamed up their business nearly a decade ago, “glamping” wasn’t quite the buzzword that it is today. “It was kind of still getting its legs here in the U.S.,” Kelsey remembers. The couple, who also run Shelter Co., a group that stages elaborate camping events for weddings and retreats, recently expanded to offer a new line of camping gear and accessories called The Get Out.

Kelsey and Mike, who moved with their children from San Francisco to rural Sebastopol just as the pandemic started, found they were bored with the technically oriented, heavy-on-the-orange tent designs already on the market. Instead, they’ve found their niche in updated color palettes and elegant shapes based on traditional walled canvas tents. The Get Out’s 13-foot diameter Lite Bell Tent ($650) comes in moss, pink, mustard, and fog. The standard Bell Tent ($1195), at 16 feet in diameter, trends more prairie- schooner chic in khaki or cream canvas. Throw in the Anywhere Rug ($120) and one of the company’s Turkish towels ($45) and the only thing missing is an outdoor shower dangling over a tree branch.

“This idea that you’re not a true outdoor lover unless you’re suffering is a sad angle to come from,” explains Kelsey. “Why not throw your down comforter in your car when you’re going to a campground you can drive to?” The Get Out, thegetout.shop, or on Instagram @thegetout.

Designer Kelsey Sheofsky’s favorite camping spots

The post Camp in Style with New Gear Designed by Sebastopol Couple appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Old MacDonald never had an Instagram account. But he had a farm. And on that farm, he had a pig and some cows and some ducks and so on. But he probably never had to post daily updates letting everyone know how his animals were doing. Or find the best light or background before taking a photo of his horse. Or pretend like everything was perfect on that farm, when maybe some days, it was really just one big, dirty, sweaty, backbreaking mess.

“I’ve been stung by bees. I’ve had sunburns. I’ve twisted my ankle in a row — but no one wants to know about that stuff. They just want to see the pretty buckets of flowers,” says Sarah Deragon, who runs Radical Family Farms in Sebastopol with her partner Leslie Wiser. A series of early Instagram posts about harvesting pea shoots, also known as the Chinese delicacy dòu miáo, helped launch the farm and connect the couple with a niche Bay Area customer base hungry for Asian heritage vegetables.

 

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On one hand, social media can be a valuable tool for farmers looking to connect directly with consumers. But it also blurs reality. Scroll through enough heavily filtered, stylized shots on Instagram and you’ll see the idealized picture-perfect postcard of the Sonoma County farm.

“It’s often very choreographed,” says farmer Will Holloway, who recently rebranded his Blue Leg Farms as Longer Table Farm with his fiancée Gina Strathman, a florist. He’s noticed that “if you look at what does best on social media, when you look at our analytics, it’s always the stuff that has a person’s face in it.”

But beyond the face, it’s what the person is actually doing that matters, especially if they strike a familiar pose. Glam harvesting is one of the most common social media farming clichés. “There’s always the bundle of flowers or carrots with the over-the-shoulder look, with the bundle under the arm. That’s an absolute classic,” says Holloway. “It’s one we often make fun of.”

 

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At Radical Family Farms, Deragon and Wiser try to find a balance between aspirational and educational. “I feel like that’s part of the romance of the farm — and I think we’re aware of selling that part of the dream — but I feel like it has to be a mix. It can’t all be perfect vegetables and people in floral dresses harvesting. It’s also hot and dirty work. The people I like to follow are more genuine in sharing successes and failures. But there are still those people who farm in this idealized way that people who are actually farming know is total bullshit,” says Deragon.

It’s not enough to just feed mouths anymore. Many of today’s successful farmers are constantly on display. That means that they have to do things their green-thumb predecessors never did, like looking into a camera and talking directly to clientele to cultivate Facebook and Instagram followers who aren’t satisfied with a simple CSA box subscription.

“It’s like you have to always put your best face forward or you always have to be performing,” says Melissa Lely, who runs Bee-Well Farms in Glen Ellen with her husband, Austin. She says she’s definitely felt “the pressure to present the glamorous farm and not the dirty, grungy farmer.”

She and Austin met at Chico State, where they both majored in special events and tourism. After graduation, they stumbled on farming when a family friend offered up his property. It’s probably why Melissa identifies so much with some of the struggles experienced by the newbie farmers featured in the 2018 documentary “The Biggest Little Farm.” During the pandemic, Bee-Well pivoted away from farmer’s market sales and began selling directly to a nearby farm and restaurant, something that requires less social media presence, which “to be honest, is a relief,” Lely says.

 

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For farmers already burdened with a heavy workload, social media can feel like the last straw. “It can be a slap in the face, because farmers have so much on their plate already, just growing food, much less running a business, with payroll and insurance, and then social media on top of it — it can be a full-time job,” Holloway says.

At Flatbed Farm in Glen Ellen, owner Sofie Dolan sets a calendar alert every Friday to prompt her to post something about Saturday’s farmstand. But it doesn’t always happen. “Is it super-important to post every week? No. I don’t feel obligated,” says Dolan, who lives part time in San Francisco, where she and her husband are partners in the restaurant 25 Lusk. “But I try to do it with integrity and intention when I do it, not so much just for the sake of doing it. Because I do feel like you can definitely tell photos that are thrown out there because you feel obligated, versus photos thrown out there that are saying, ‘Let me show you what’s blooming right now’ or ‘Can anybody tell me what this is?’”

 

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Then there are the longtime farmers who got into the business to work the land and not a desk and can get away with totally ignoring social media. When farmer Paul Wirtz and his wife, Candi, created a Facebook page for Paul’s Produce nearly a decade ago, “the typical reactions were, ‘Oh wow, I didn’t realize you guys had such big tractors’ or ‘Oh my god, look at how long the rows are.’ But I don’t know if it ever really amounted to anything,” says Wirtz, who has been farming in Sonoma Valley for more than 30 years.

As for reality versus fantasy on the farm — if perfectly polished vegetables and straw hats with turquoise cowboy boots are at one end of the spectrum, and shoveling manure is at the other, maybe chronicling more of the grit of daily life on the farm should be left to documentary filmmakers.

“That’s not something that we’ve jumped into yet, showing people what it takes and how hard it is,” Deragon says. “But does anyone really care? Do they care how hard it is or do they just want the end result?”

The post Has Instagram Ruined Local Farming? appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

After being stopped in its tracks at the onset of the pandemic, the Napa Valley Wine Train is once again inviting wine (and train) enthusiasts to hop on the one-of-a-kind attraction starting Monday.

The train is a popular way to explore Napa wines and cuisine, while taking in the views of the valley’s rolling hills and vineyards. The first experience to be relaunched Monday is the fan-favorite Legacy Tour, which begins with sparkling wine, is accompanied by a four-course gourmet meal and tour of Napa Valley, and ends with a photo opportunity and exclusive tastings at local wineries.

More winery tours and even a Murder Mystery Tour will be opening in mid-June.

To give back to the community after months of pandemic struggles, the Napa Valley Wine Train has partnered with OLE Health to host a temporary vaccination clinic at their train station since mid-April. Additionally, health care workers will be offered complimentary tickets to celebrate the train’s reopening, as a way to thank them for their efforts in the fight against COVID-19.

The train’s antique rail cars became a space for dining service in 1989, but the railroad they travel on opened in 1864 as a route to take passengers from south Napa to Calistoga. The 16-car train is one of a few historic passenger trains that are still in operation in the United States. Visit winetrain.com for more information or to reserve your spot.

The post All Aboard! Napa Valley Wine Train Resumes Operations appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.