Oh hummus, we have done you so wrong. The staple of Middle Eastern cuisine, made with humble chickpeas, olive oil and tahini, never deserved to be made into “brownie batter” flavor. But the many, many ways hummus has entered into our everyday lives also has brought us closer to other flavors of countries like Greece, Turkey, Syria, Palestine, Israel, Iraq, Iran and many others.

Once all but impossible to find in Sonoma County — or really even outside large cities or pockets of immigrant communities — spices like saffron, sumac, cinnamon, cumin and turmeric are becoming more common in local fare. Tzatziki sits next to onion dip at Trader Joe’s. Pitas are just as popular filled with peanut butter and jelly as they are with falafel.

With the appearance of several Middle Eastern restaurant newcomers on the local dining scene, it seemed time to honor some of our favorite haunts for hummus and the many other dishes of this vast culinary landscape. And while lumping together the rich cuisines of each region and country under a single banner is as silly as saying American food consists only of hamburgers, hot dogs and apple pie, it all has to start with a common thread that’s universally understood.

So we’ll plant a flag with hummus and go from there, because everyone loves a good hummus. In addition to some best bets, each restaurant will get a hummus score from 1 (not great) to 5 (awesome). And we promise, no brownie batter hummus will be included.

Success stories

Kalimera Bar & Grill: Earlier this year, Grill Santa Rosa was notified to leave Santa Rosa Plaza where it had been serving well-crafted Mediterranean fare since 2021. But with family and community support, chef and owner Ilyas Kara revived his restaurant at the Brickyard Center with the same menu and new name: Kalimera Bar & Grill. Go for the cold mezze plate, a sampling of hummus, baba ganoush (roasted eggplant dip), tabbouleh, tzatziki, dolmas, grilled pita and crisp falafel. It’s plenty big for sharing. Hummus: 4. 458 B St., Santa Rosa, 707-308-4928, kalimerabarandgrill.com

Spread Kitchen: Opened in 2022 in the former Sonoma Eats location in Boyes Hot Springs, this Lebanese-inspired restaurant from chef-owner Cristina Topham has garnered a devoted following. The San Francisco Chronicle recently called Spread “one of the best Middle Eastern restaurants in the Bay Area.” There are plenty of vegan and gluten-free options in addition to traditional staples like lamb kofta and turmeric chicken in a lavash wrap. Go for an array of mezzes, such as the quinoa tabbouleh, falafel with green tahini sauce and za’atar fries with toum, an irresistible creamy whipped garlic sauce. Hummus: 5. 18375 Highway 12, Sonoma, 707-721-1256, spreadkitchensonoma.com

Falafel Hut: This longtime San Rafael favorite opened in downtown Santa Rosa (in the former Gerard’s Paella location) in 2021. The falafel is off-the-charts tasty, and we loved the kibbie (ground lamb and bulgur wheat with a gentle cinnamon spice). The chicken shawarma was only pretty good with minimal seasoning when the restaurant first started off, but now it’s excellent and bursting with flavor. Hummus: 4. 701 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-237-7010, falafelhut2.com

Gold standards

King Falafel: This hidden gem is probably the best falafel spot in Sonoma County. It’s exactly the kind of no-frills eatery that focuses on what it does best — falafel. Go for the King falafel where you can choose toppings including pickles, eggplant, tahini, red shatta, tzatziki or tabbouleh. Hummus: 4. 100 Brown St., Suite 150, Sebastopol, 707-824-4800

Sam’s Mediterranean: You won’t stumble on this out-of-the-way deli unless you spend a lot of time cruising quiet office parks looking for hole-in-the-wall lunch spots. Thankfully, I do, and this charming little place is a Middle Eastern treasure. Their panini-style chicken shawarma wraps are a delicious entry point, with gently spiced meat and melted cheese. It comes with garlic and hot sauces and a Greek salad. Hummus: 4. 613 Martin Ave., Suite 111, Rohnert Park, 707-584-0220, samsmeddeli.com

Real Doner: Here’s another stunner that has stood the test of time. We’re especially fond of the doner wraps — long rolls of lavash bread with sliced meat or kebab snuggled inside. We also love the Pink Sultan, a roasted beet and yogurt dip. Hummus: 5. 307 F St., Petaluma, 707-765-9555, realdoner.net

More than Middle Eastern

Fourth Street Market and Deli: This local sandwich shop makes a mean tabbouleh, and it’s the only spot I’ve found for mujadara, an addictive lentil and caramelized onion dish. Hummus: 4. 300 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-573-9832, fourthstreetdeli.com

East West Cafe: I’ve often given this local charmer short shrift after a couple of long-ago disappointments. Since then, however, I’ve been really impressed with the chicken shawarma and vegetarian mezze plate. Hummus: 4. 557 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-6142, eastwestcafesantarosa.com

Elevated

Stockhome: The Swedish cuisine here also includes influences of Turkish street food that’s common in Sweden, but part of the menu sets aside meatballs and lingonberries for kebabs, pita-wrapped falafel, fattoush salad and saffron rice. The eggplant dip is out of this world, and the grilled halloumi pita is equally amazing. Hummus: 5. 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511, stockhomepetaluma.com

Pearl: This chef-run restaurant takes inspiration from the flavors of the Middle East and turns them into memorable meals. Dishes change up, but the picnic plate with tabbouleh, hummus, labneh and fresh pita is required. We also love the Persian meatball tagine with herbed yogurt, lamb burger and shakshuka, a brunchy dish with spiced tomato stew and eggs. Moroccan rice pudding is a perfect, perfumed ending. Hummus: 5. 500 First St., Petaluma, 707-559-5187, pearlpetaluma.com

Grossman’s: This Jewish-style deli focuses on a wide variety of dishes, from latkes to zhug. We love the nuanced falafel that don’t hit your stomach like a bomb, baby artichokes with labneh and sumac, quinoa tabbouleh and, yes, I’m going to say it again because I eat it so much, the Sabich platter with fried eggplant, falafel, tahina and amba, a sauce made with pickled mangoes. Hummus: 5. 308 Wilson St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com

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With river-adjacent seating, charming exposed-brick walls, and sunny windows, Wild Goat Bistro is real-estate gold for lunchtime and post-theater dining. Espousing a commitment to locally-sourced ingredients and approachable Mediterranean-influenced dishes (pizza, burgers, salads and heartier evening entrees) its got broad potential.
The kitchen, however, still needs some gentle herding.
Housed in the former Sooze Wine Bar location there are some solid menu picks at Wild Goat, especially at lunch. Thin and crispy pizzas lead the charge: “In Season” ($11.75) is an oft-changing featured pizza we had with pear, gorgonzola and arugula. Served on wooden boards, it’s picture perfect. A steak-and-potato topped pizza (The Rancher, $12.50) missed the mark not with flavor, but presentation: Biting into a slice with long vertical strips of steak can make for embarrassing (and messy) cheese-meets-steak-meets-chin slapping.
Salads are also tasty: The springy Cobb ($12.50, also available in half-orders) hits all the right notes with its lighter take on the classic and is enough for two to share easily.  The restaurant serves up a few heartier entrees in the evenings, along with many of the lunchtime fare, including seasonal fish, The Petaluma Burger (grass-fed Niman ranch beef) and pasta. Cakes are sweet and rustic, housed on covered cake plates along the counter. Charm-points.
But the devil’s in the details. Mismatched thrift-store-esque dishes are only quaint when they’re ironic or in a dorm room. Neither of which they are here. Fancy plating techniques can become classic fails in over-ambitious hands: Water crackers stuck into a hunk of chevre is giggle-worthy (though the toasted slice of baguette in a wire basket impressed). Potato wedges are best left on the plate rather than teetering over my burger. Flavor pile-ups (tomatoes, balsamic vinegar, olive tapenade and goat cheese) distract. Both of my dining partners looked on horrified when a plastic Heinz squeeze bottle of ketchup was thunked on the table. Fine at a diner. Not when we’re the bill is going to be over $60.
Overall, minor faux pas…but restaurants are in the business of appealing to all the senses and mangled details detract from the otherwise well-crafted experience.
Just out of the gate, Wild Goat has good intent, but like any gal trying to impress, sometimes needs a quick look in the mirror. Remove a few overly ambitious-accessories and invest in some foundation pieces. Because simple, confident and classic is often the best way to go.
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Wild Goat Bistro,  6 Petaluma Blvd N, Ste A5 (in the Great Petaluma Mill), Petaluma, (707) 658-1156. Lunch from 11:45am to 3pm daily, Dinner from 5 to 9pm Sun-Thursds; 5 to 10pm Fri, Sat. Live music Friday and Saturday from 7 to 9:30pm. 
 

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What happens when hundreds of chefs, culinary professionals and journalists descend on Napa’s Culinary Institute for three days of intense discussion, demonstrations, food-trend forecasting and eating? You’ve got the annual World’s of Flavor Conference.

This year focuses on the Mediterranean cooking — Italy, Spain, Greece and the fascinating flavors of the Middle East. I’ll be blogging throughout the day today (Friday) and Saturday. See what the food world is talking about here in Napa…

Admittedly we’re at Food Nerd Level 9 here. This is hard-core gourmet heaven. As usual I’ll break it down to just what you need to know.(Not your cup of tea? Stay tuned for a dispatch on Lynn’s Thai, a new restaurant in Cotati).

SATURDAY

Spent the morning with local cookbook author and legend Paula Wolfert whose decades-long affair with Middle Eastern cuisine, specifically that of Morocco, has helped to bring tangines (clay pot dishes) and preserved lemons to the American palate. Wolfert and SF chef Mourad Lahlou of Aziza created a Moroccan lamb tanjia cooked over hot coals for eight hours.

Says Wolfert, “Nothing is coddled more than a Moroccan dish made by men for men.”

What you need to know: Tajine are clay vessels that are often passed through generations that are used to cook stew-like dishes (often my the men) that simmer and cook overnight in hot coals. The food is packed in — often root veggies, lamb, exotic spices (cumin, saffron, a special blend called Rass el Hanout), aged butter (called Smen) and garlic. The result is a rich, thick, melt-in-your mouth dish that sticks to your ribs.

Want to try it: Mourad is one of America’s rising young chefs, bringing the flavors of his Moroccan heritage San Francisco. Check out the menus at Aziza.

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Before leaving (BiteClub can only take so much deliciousness, afterall), I checked out the Worlds of Flavor Marketplace. Designed to look like a Middle Eastern market, attendees got to wander around to dozens of stations serving up everything from cold blue seafood soup (from Spain, of course, and colored with cabbage) to couscous, a whole suckling pig, prosciutoo, tapas, lamb, lentils, pasta and more wine than should be legal. I’m in a food coma. Top Chef Cat Cora was the celeb of the moment, pimping American catfish. She’s a whole lot tinier than you’d think, but the girl can cook.

 Next year’s theme is Street and Comfort Food. I’ll be there.

PREVIOUSLY
Man can not live on bread alone. Or wine. But put the two together and you’ve got a pretty great meal.

Italy
is a bastion of cooking history and traditions, but few as entrenched
as the cooking styles of Apuglia–roughly located in the heel of
Italy’s boot (aka the southeast coast). One of the most famous products
of the region is  pane di altamura, a type of bread made with hard
durum wheat. What makes this bread so unique, other than the fact that
you can’t get it outside of the region, is the sheer size of it.

Loaves
can be two feet (or more) around and weigh multiple kilos. We’re
talking super-sized loaves that could feed a family for a week — and
literally did for centuries. It’s a rustic, crunchy bread that was
baked in a communal oven and would provide nutrition for a week to
families on isolated farms.

You gotta wash all that bread down
with something, and frankly the Rioja region of Spain is one of the
most vibrant winemaking regions in Europe. Wine expert Doug Frost says
the Spain could, in fact, usurp France as the EU’s top producer of wine
in the next two to three years

It wasn’t always that way. In
fact the Rioja region has always made lots of wine, but it was mostly
jug-type stuff that made Hearty Burgundy look downright fancy. That’s
changed, and now the Rioja region is turning out some super-premium
wines. Sounds like kind of a familiar story here in Northern California.

Fun
Fact: Tapas is all the rage in America, but its actually a culture in
Spain. Tapas bars open in the mid-afternoon for snacks, wine and
conversation. A sort of enforced chill-out time. How awesome does that
sound?

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Greek food usually
frightens me a bit. Too many flaming Ouzo-soaked pieces of kefalotere 
(cheese) and fatty gyros have made me skeptical. Frankly, however, most
American-Greek restaurants are about as authentic to their true flavors
of their homeland as Chef Boyardee is to Italian food. Not so much.

Like, betcha never had Melitzanopita me Karydia ke Kymino or Sofegada me Tsipoura ke Aromatika Horta. Me
neither, until the talented young toques from the CIA threw together a
little lunch shindig for the gobs of picky, highly critical food folks
here with some of the most amazing and authentic Greek dishes i’ve ever
seen.

Braised Sea Bream wtih Wild Greens and Fennel, gigantic beans with buttermilk and shaved Botargo (the
preserved roe pouch of tuna — nice), a cream of Trahan soup (a grain
mixed with yogurt), lots of octopus and a barnyard of barbecued pigs on
spits. Crazy good.

Contemporary Cooking of Israel
Forget falafel and hummus, the cooking of Israel is emerging as some of the
most creative in the Middle East. Chef Daniel Boulud has a surprising
number of chefs learning the craft in his kitchen and returning home
with that knowledge. “It is a cuisine under construction,” says
moderator Joan Nathan.
Best quotes: “How can a country of 2 million Jewish mothers not have any good food?”
Try this: Pan sauteed cauliflower with lemon and date honey.
What’s date honey? There are no bees involved in making this ancient
sweetner from pressed dates. It’s available at most Mediterranean
specialty shops.
Get it at home: Okay, so BiteClub hasn’t had much great Middle Eastern food in Sonoma, but Humble Pie has recently been serving Matzoh Ball Soup! Omg.

SICILY
Sicily,
crossroads of the Mediterranean. This is more than just garlic and roma
tomatoes…Included in the lineup of some of Italy’s top chefs: Carmelo Chiaramonte, Accursio Craparo, Pino Maggiore and Ciccio Sultano. 
Best lines: “Use vegetables that smell and taste of the earth.”
“A mortar and pestle is the key to Mediterranean cooking. You’re not a real chef it you can’t use a mortar and pestle.”
Try this: Sicilian Pesto (made with a mortar and pestle of course) with garlic, almonds, basil leaves and boiled, seeded tomatoes.
Inspired eating: Although tuffles aren’t native to Sicily, local chef Josh Silvers just got back from a whirlwind trip to Italy for Terra Madre
and brought back a couple of serious white truffles. He’ll be serving
them up this weekend on the tasting menu. We’re just entering truffle
season, so stay tuned for more local truffle feasts.

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