Sonoma County was built on red wine and ravioli.

As the chosen home of thousands of Italian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the simple food and wine of their homeland became the basis for a flourishing economy, and family names like Bacigalupi, Bastoni, Pedroncelli, Seghesio, Traverso and Martinelli have continued to power that engine.

The Canevaris are part of that local history, selling their cheese and meat-filled ravioli to Mary’s Pizza Shack and nearly every supermarket from San Francisco to the Oregon border — or so the story goes.

The tiny ravioli factory founded in 1929 by Atillio Canevari and later run by his son, Edwin, still sells freshly made ravioli (the original recipe) but has expanded into a popular Italian deli under current owner Lou Chambrone (formerly of Sweet Lou’s in Cotati).

A hale and hearty paisan, Chambrone has upped Canevari’s game with fat Italian-style subs, his recipes for lasagna, creamy tiramisu, polenta and dozens of other dishes that show up as daily specials on the handwritten signs outside the deli.

And it’s those idiosyncratic signs with their wobbly handwriting that Chambrone credits for his ongoing success. The deli sits on Lewis Road, a busy thoroughfare extending from Steele Lane to a nearby residential area.

“People would come by and say they’ve driven by here for 10 years and never stopped. It just catches people’s eyes,” he said. Now, they come in out of curiosity or rumbling tummies on their way home from work to see the specials, he added.

The signs are so iconic that a friend made a computer font out of his handwriting — you’ll see it on half a dozen or more signs inside the deli. But Chambrone still likes to write the signs outside himself.

While talking with Chambrone, a line of DoorDash drivers and catering pickups start extending toward the counter. “It’s raining. People are ordering in,” he said. The line continues to grow until it’s nearly out the door.

Excusing himself and heading to the prep area, he dives in to help his small staff.

“I’ll be right with you all. Now, who’s next?”

Fun fact

Chambrone’s son, Dominic Ciambrone, creates bespoke sneakers and footwear for celebrities that start at $5,000. He created a special pair of kicks with red checkered cloth, green trim and tiny ravioli on the laces inspired by Canevari’s. You can see them at the deli.

The vibe

Chambrone and his son Dominic recently renovated the Santa Rosa deli, giving it a warm and inviting feel while keeping the historic charm. The affable Chambrone loves collaborating with other local restaurants and most recently did a special “Cubano Cannelloni” with Carlos Mojica of Guiso Latin Fusion.

The food

Everyone has a favorite here — from the meaty Italian sub, filled with salami, mortadella, capicola, provolone and tangy muffuletta spread, to the frozen ravioli with homemade sauce, fresh cannoli, lasagna, creamy polenta, chop salad and tiramisu. Everything is made fresh and Chambrone champions local purveyors, including Zoe’s Meats, Imwalle Gardens and Franco-American bread.

The recipes are all Chambrone’s, who has spent a lifetime in the restaurant business. “The menu is too long, but it all sells,” he said. “If I take something off, people complain.”

The perks

Though you can sit at one of several tables inside, most of Canevari’s menu is prepared to go. They’ve recently added their menu to DoorDash and Grubhub to make stuffing your face with a gabagool sub even easier.

The tab

Sandwiches range from $14 to $17; Lou’s Chop Salad is $12; and spaghetti, ravioli or creamy mushroom polenta plates are $12 to $13.

The deals

Take and bake Family Platters serve a small crowd and can include ravioli, tri-tip, mesquite chicken, a loaf of garlic bread and sauce. Prices range from $47 to $75.

The service

The staff makes sandwiches lickety-split, even when there’s a line. Chambrone is usually somewhere in the mix: making sandwiches, answering the phone, ringing up customers or entertaining regulars.

The spot

695 Lewis St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-6941, canevarisdeli.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The post Sonoma’s Italian History Is in Every Bite of Canevari’s Ravioli appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

From the window of Canevari’s Ravioli Factory and Deli, Ed Canevari has watched the history of Santa Rosa unfold over three generations.

But after decades of pounding dough and breathing flour in the ravioli room of his family business he’s ready to pass on the torch. “I need some new blood,” he said. “We want to get back to the level of energy and service we had 20 years ago.”

Now in his 70’s, the local icon is turning over management of the historic italian-American business to Michael Coutre, a local investor who hopes breathe new life into the nearly 100-year-old businesses. His own kids, he claims, aren’t interested in the grinding work of the family factory.

Growing up in the two-bedroom house behind the Lewis Road business, Canevari had a front seat to the development of Santa Rosa — from fields to, well, strip malls and subdivisions. He spins tales of war prisoners working the hop fields off Chanate Road, spins yarns about the humble beginnings of Charlie Traverso (a friend of his dad’s) and will give you an earful about some of the city’s seamier moments (if he thinks you deserve to hear them.) Mention any local luminary of his generation, and his face is an instant read on whether they’re a paisono. Or not.

Canevari also loves to show newcomers a grainy black and white picture on the wall of he and his father. Just 18-months old, he’s dressed in a white apron and hat miming his father, Attillio. “I always liked to copy him,” said Canevari.

That kind of local history can’t be bought for any price. Which is why Coutre isn’t planning on revamping the closely-held traditions of the Canevari’s operation. “We are custodians of a legacy,” said Coutre, who was persistent in his desire to work with Canevari, despite a number of brush-offs by the septugenarian. “Ed has entrusted his lifetime of work to us. Why go in and change that?”

To help with the plan, Coutre hired two hospitality veterans — South Bay restaurant GM John Foss, and assistant Foppiano winemaker and budding pastry chef Chris Bertsche  — to start learning the business from Canevari and his staff and provide extra manpower in the last several months. Moving forward, he plans to ramp up ravioli-making and get the products back in local stores (currently they are only available at the deli). Staff will also be offering more catering services and Coutre hopes to add ready-made dinner offerings and authentic Italian staples as part of the deli’s offerings.

But don’t expect the senior Canevari to fade into history. He’s retained ownership of the shop, and as keeper of the family recipes, he’s adamant that the newcomers do things the right way — his father’s way — using fresh, local ingredients. Pointing to his family name on the sign outside the factory, he said, “That’s always going to be my named on the sign up there.”

The post Canevari’s: New Blood for Old School Italian Ravioli Factory appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.