Waiter, there’s a bug in my food

Recently I got a call from a BiteClubber who was shocked to have a found a bug in her salad at a local restaurant. A sign of a dirty kitchen? Slacking oversight? The key, I told her, was where she found the bug. In her salad.
Recently I got a call from a BiteClubber who was shocked to have a found a bug
in her salad at a local restaurant. A sign of a dirty kitchen? Slacking
oversight? The key, I told her, was where she found the bug. In her
salad.

After talking to some local chefs, the news is a little less distressing. Blame it on organic greens.
Because many restaurants are using salad mixes that aren’t sprayed with
the nasty stuff that might make us sick, the greens also aren’t always
repelling the little critters that feast on them. So, despite the fact
that most restaurants still wash the greens after they arrive, there’s a chance that you’ll find a rogue hanger-on once
your salad has been dressed and brought to the table. Obviously that
doesn’t make discovering a creepy crawler in your arugula any less
unappetizing.

So, what to do? Should you be the unlucky winner of the bug lotto,
the best thing to do is to let your server know right away. There’s no
need for hysterics. A good restaurant will immediately take away the
offending plate and offer you a new one. Chances are your appetite for
more of the same has been dampened, so the folks I’ve talked to say
that the best practice Recently I got a call from a BiteClubber who was shocked to have a found a bug in her salad at a local restaurant. A sign of a dirty kitchen? Slacking oversight? The key, I told her, was where she found the bug. In her salad. is to (obviously) comp the salad and offer you their heartfelt apologies. Better restaurants may also sweeten the deal with a free dessert or a small gift certificate to get you to come back.

There is, however, a BIG difference between finding a field bug in your salad and finding a roach. There’s never an excuse for roaches.
Ever. You also should never be subjected to finding a bug in cooked
food. That’s clearly more a problem and needs not only to be reported
to the chef and may also warrant a report to the Food Inspectors. Oopsies happen from time to time, even at the best restaurants, but a serious infestation needs to be taken very, very seriously.

If
you’re wondering exactly how clean the restaurants you’ve been
frequenting are, you can check out their current status with the Sonoma County health department online or the Napa Health officials. Major critical violations may warrant immediate closure of the facility.

Mmmm. Anyone hungry?

Seed

Set to open May 7 is Seed, a vegan/raw foods restaurant located in the former Cafe Saint Rose space. In the kitchen will be Jerri Hastey, formerly of Passages alternative healthcare and a certified raw foods chef.

If you’re not familiar with raw foods, they’re, uh, raw. The idea, in a nutshell, is that cooking food kills all the good stuff (namely enzymes), so nothing is heated past 116 degrees. Instead foods are consumed in their natural state or “sprouted” for easier digestion. A crazy idea? In the last few years, a entire food community has sprouted up around the idea of translating uncooked fruits, veggies and grains into a type of hyper-healthy cuisine. Locals may remember the hulabaloo a few years ago about Roxanne’s, an attempt at haute-raw cuisine in Larkspur which was a bit ahead of its time. Since then, the movement has gained a foothold around the Bay Area–its most popular posterchild being Cafe Gratitude in San Francisco.

Hastey plans to serve lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday. Seed,
465 Sebastopol Ave., Santa Rosa.

Ad Hoc Restaurant Yountville

Ad Hoc
Ad Hoc

Ad Hoc is here to stay. Though the restaurant was only supposed to be a temporary experiment, Thomas Keller’s home-style prix-fix diner has settled in for the long haul after enthusiastic eaters practically mobbed the place.
Unlike other chef-lebrities who’ve lowered standards to accommodate eager fans, Keller’s trademark perfectionism at Ad Hoc is evident in everything from the attentive (but casual) service to the family-style entrees that manage to be both elegant and homey at the same time. Dishes are served family style, so get cozy.
Don’t miss dishes: Buttermilk fried chicken

Himalayan Tandoori and Curry House

I’m about the least political person on the planet. I head for the hills when discussion starts to veer toward candidates, “anti” anything or involves sweaty, shouting people. Not that I don’t have the utmost admiration for the advocates among us. I’m just more of an eater than a fighter.

So while Richard Gere, Ani DiFranco, Bono and countless others among you fight the good fight, BiteClub chooses a quieter, more delicious way to make a stand. Like, how about I spend a thoughtful afternoon eating daal, saag paneer, momo, tikka masala and naan at Himalayan Tandoori and Curry House? It’s a sacrifice I’m willing to make over and over (and over) again for the betterment of humanity…and in support of the cuisine of our friends from Tibet.

Want to join my crusade? Here’s the deal: Hidden in a Sebastopol strip mall, the year-old restaurant has flown way below the radar of most foodies. Relying mostly on word-of-mouth advertising, Tibetan owner Rajehh Moktan promptly won over local vegans with his brown rice, veggie tandoori, daal bhat (lentil soup) and meatless curries. No small feat in Sebastopol. But that’s only a small part of the equation.

Omnivores can sink their teeth into lamb or seafood tandoori; a rich, creamy chicken tikka masala (which is naked without a dab of mango chutney) or the ultra-rich saag paneer curry with homemade cubes of cheese, fresh spinach, onions, spices and tomato sauce. To sop up every last dribble of sauce–and believe me, you’ll want to–head straight for the garlic cilantro naan bread. Pace yourself as you dive into the half-moons with crisp edges and a soft middle studded with butter, herbs and garlic.

Manning the kitchen is Rajehh’s cousin (also from Tibet) who cut his teeth at Sonoma’s Taste of Himalaya and Rohnert Park’s Shangri-La after having owned his own restaurant back home. Having never trekked through the Himalayas, the food’s authenticity is better left to experts. I have however, watched Anthony Bourdain choke down yak meat in Nepal, and will venture to guess that Rajehh’s take is probably more suited to American tastes. Note: If you’re planning to be a hero, be warned that “spicy” can mean some serious heat. Mild or medium is a safe bet, though Raj says they strive to make chicken taste like, well, chicken no matter how hot you want it.

If you’re keeping to mostly Tibetan-influenced dishes, steer toward the meat (or veggie) momo–filled dumplings that have much in common with potstickers. The restaurant serves them up with a tomato and cumin sauce that packs a punch. Fill up on daal bhat curry with rice and vegetables and mixed pickle chutney.

The rest of the menu borrows heavily from the cuisine of Nepal’s Indian neighbors–not too surprising for a nation that survives mainly on lentil soup, rice, pickles and yak, uh, products (including butter and cheese). In Tibet, sustenance beats out complicated preparations and exotic spices. In India, not so much. Hindi influences show in kabobs, curries, masalas and vindaloos, as well as the desserts of gulab jamun (sweet, fried dough balls) and Kulfi (a sort of Indian ice cream).

Call it food inclusionism and make your own stand. Power to the Paneer.

Himalayan Tandoori and Curry House, 969 Gravenstein Hwy So, Sebastopol, 707.824.1800. Open for lunch from 11am to 2:30pm Monday through Saturday, Dinner from 5pm to 9pm Monday through Saturday. Closed on Sunday.

Himalayan Tandoori and Curry House is feeding Sebastopol right

Himalayan Tandoori & Curry House courtesy photo Yelp
Himalayan Tandoori & Curry House courtesy photo Yelp

Hidden in a Sebastopol strip mall, Himalayan Tandoori and Curry House Indian restaurant has flown way below the radar of most foodies. Relying mostly on word-of-mouth advertising, Tibetan owner Rajehh Moktan promptly won over local vegans with his brown rice, veggie tandoori, daal bhat (lentil soup) and meatless curries. No small feat in Sebastopol. But that’s only a small part of the equation.
Omnivores can sink their teeth into lamb or seafood tandoori; a rich, creamy chicken tikka masala (which is naked without a dab of mango chutney) or the ultra-rich saag paneer curry with homemade cubes of cheese, fresh spinach, onions, spices and tomato sauce. To sop up every last dribble of sauce—and believe me, you’ll want to—head straight for the garlic cilantro naan bread. Pace yourself as you dive into the half-moons with crisp edges and a soft middle studded with butter, herbs and garlic.

Himalayan Tandoori & Curry House courtesy photo Yelp
Himalayan Tandoori & Curry House courtesy photo Yelp

Manning the kitchen is Rajehh’s cousin (also from Tibet) who cut his teeth at Sonoma’s Taste of Himalaya and Rohnert Park’s Shangri-La after having owned his own restaurant back home. Having never trekked through the Himalayas, the food’s authenticity is better left to experts. I have however, watched Anthony Bourdain choke down yak meat in Nepal, and will venture to guess that Rajehh’s take is probably more suited to American tastes. Note: If you’re planning to be a hero, be warned that “spicy” can mean some serious heat. Mild or medium is a safe bet, though Raj says they strive to make chicken taste like, well, chicken no matter how hot you want it.
If you’re keeping to mostly Tibetan-influenced dishes, steer toward the meat (or veggie) momo—filled dumplings that have much in common with potstickers. The restaurant serves them up with a tomato and cumin sauce that packs a punch. Fill up on daal bhat curry with rice and vegetables and mixed pickle chutney.
The rest of the menu borrows heavily from the cuisine of Nepal’s Indian neighbors—not too surprising for a nation that survives mainly on lentil soup, rice, pickles and yak, uh, products (including butter and cheese). In Tibet, sustenance beats out complicated preparations and exotic spices. In India, not so much. Hindi influences show in kabobs, curries, masalas and vindaloos, as well as the desserts of gulab jamun (sweet, fried dough balls) and Kulfi (a sort of Indian ice cream). Call it food inclusionism and make your own stand. Power to the Paneer.
Himalayan Tandoori and Curry House, 969 Gravenstein Hwy So, Sebastopol, 707.824.1800. Open for lunch from 11am to 2:30pm Monday through Saturday, Dinner from 5pm to 9pm Monday through Saturday. Closed on Sunday.

Big Boy’s Buns and Burgers

Hospital food, I’m here to tell you, is every bit as awful as you’ve heard. Having just spent four days and nights in the pediatric ward, BiteClub would have traded a bed pan, four grape drinks, a slightly used IV bag and a several luxurious nights on the floor for a real hamburger. The distance between jubilant relief and ungrateful revulsion is only a hospital meal away.

Having recently been sprung (everyone is fine, thank you), it became mission critical to readjust my cholesterol and fat levels to their previous levels. Stat. Enter Big Boy’s Buns and Burgers.

Around since 1963, it’s got a local following that borders on rabid. Larkfield locals frequently line up at the walk-up windows, waiting patiently for their half-pound Big Boys and beer-battered onion rings for as long as it takes.

Worth the wait? Let me lay out the pros and cons. On the plus side are fresh patties, crisp fixins (tomatoes, lettuce and pickles), J-Lo sized buns and, of course, the special sauce. Minuses: An almost mess-free burger in need of a juice transfusion and a poor burger to bun ratio–too much of a good thing (in this case the bun) isn’t always a good thing. Other minor annoyances included a lack of toast on the undersize of aforementioned bun and a serious lack of grilly goodness. Hey, those little crackly, crunchy bits off the spatula are what I’m here for.

The thick-cut fries and onion rings at Buns and Burgers are highly respectable companions, served up with plenty of salt. If you’re going all out, I recommend indulging in a small order of each, or the chili-cheese fries if you really want to get that old heart beating triple time. Also on the menu is the bacon, ham and cheese burger, bbq cheese burger with onion rings, patty melt with swiss and grilled onions, fish and chips, chili cheese dogs, BLT sandwiches and daily specials (today’s was pastrami).

Don’t miss handmade ice cream shakes so thick you’ll get a headache from sucking the straw. Just for good measure, take home a quart of co-owner George Fiori’s minestrone soup, passed down from a special family recipe for generations. People swear by the stuff.

Despite the imperfections, its a hard act to follow, especially for the newcomers at Thumbs-Up Burger down the road in Windsor. Prior to our health fiasco, BiteClub and family stopped in for dinner, along with about half of Windsor. Already a popular spot on weekend nights, the deli-style restaurant serves up a decent burger in a hurry though it lacks serious inspiration. Paper plates and a lack of napkins make for a messy meal. Clearly they’re still in start-up mode, and we’ll give them a lilting thumbs-up for effort.

Overall, I’ve still got a soft spot for the now-defunct Chippery’s Jesse James burger as the ßmeasure against which all burgers are, uh, measured in my all-beef patty world. But who can complain, really, after a week of Jell-O and beef broth?

Big Boy’s Buns and Burgers, 406 Larkfield Shopping Center, Santa Rosa, (707) 546-6835, open daily from 7am to 7pm, Friday and Saturday until 8pm.

Thumbs Up Burger and Deli, 8465 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 300, Windsor, 707.837.7443. Open Monday through Sat., 6:30am to 9:30pm; Sunday 6:30am to 8:30pm.

PS. BiteClub wants to give a special shout-out to the awesome ER and pediatric staff of Santa Rosa Memorial Hospital, including Rick, Gloria, Penny and all the super cool folks to made our stay comfortable–including bringing me the food that I’ve been so ungrateful for. Regardless, Miss Lucy and I thank you from the bottom of our hearts. If you ever find yourself stuck in the hospital, may I recommend take-out from Sushi To Dai and Sea Thai Bistro which my man McNibs mercifully brought me during my incarceration. Thanks McNibs!

Big Boy’s Buns and Burgers

Hardening arteries since 1963, Big Boy’s Buns and Burgers has a local following that borders on rabid. Larkfield locals frequently line up at the walk-up windows, waiting patiently for their half-pound Big Boys and beer-battered onion rings for as long as it takes.
Worth the wait? Let me lay out the pros and cons. On the plus side are fresh patties, crisp fixins (tomatoes, lettuce and pickles), J-Lo sized buns and, of course, the special sauce. Minuses: An almost mess-free burger in need of a juice transfusion
and a poor burger to bun ratio–too much of a good thing (in this case the bun) isn’t always a good thing. Other minor annoyances included a lack of toast on the undersize of aforementioned bun and a serious lack of grilly goodness. Hey, those little crackly, crunchy bits off the spatula are what I’m here for.
The thick-cut fries and onion rings at Buns and Burgers are highly respectable companions, served up with plenty of salt. If you’re going all out, I recommend indulging in a small order of each, or the chili-cheese fries if you really want to get that old heart beating triple time. Also on the menu is the bacon, ham and cheese burger, bbq cheese burger with onion rings, patty melt with swiss and grilled onions, fish and chips, chili cheese dogs, BLT sandwiches and daily specials (today’s was pastrami).
Don’t miss handmade ice cream shakes so thick you’ll get a headache from sucking the straw. Just for good measure, take home a quart of co-owner George Fiori’s minestrone soup, passed down from a special family recipe for generations. People swear by the stuff.
Big Boy’s Buns and Burgers, 406 Larkfield Shopping Center, Santa Rosa, (707) 546-6835, open daily from 7am to 7pm, Friday and Saturday until 8pm.
Big Boys Buns & Burgers on Urbanspoon

Top 100 restaurants?

The Bauer has spoken. Each year, the San Francisco Chronicle food critic bestows his blessings on a lucky 100 restaurants (see who they are) as “the best” of the year. In 2008 only four made the grade in Sonoma County. On the list: Rosso, Cyrus, Cafe La Haye and the Farmhouse Inn. That’s it.

Really? Come on now. Sure, Rosso and Cyrus are undeniably stellar restaurants well worth the kudos. Cyrus has achieved transcendency in both service and putting it on par with any top restaurants in the country. The humbler Rosso has impressed locals with its consistency, great woodfired pizzas, commitment to organic/sustainable ingredients and wine program–all at a reasonable price.

And okay, I can’t begrudge the Farmhouse Inn with its enviable wine program and consistently respectable food, but consistency can sometimes be a bit dull. What’s got me scratching my head, however, was my intense disappointment with a seriously lackluster recent meal at Cafe La Haye. Is it really better than The General’s Daughter? Better than Syrah? Better than Santi? Better than Cafe Saint Rose? Better than Willi’s or Stark’s Steakhouse?

But the choices are a little less surprising when you consider that only 19 are new to the list–less than one-fifth. The remaining 81 have been on the Top 100 previously, many for multiple years–some clearly for too many years. Is nostalgia playing too big a part in these decisions?

Because while I respect and admire Mr. Bauer, there isn’t a decent restauranteur, especially previous winners, who don’t recognize him in an instant. They know who all the critics are, no matter how anonymous they try to be, making me wonder how truly objective any of us who eat and drink for a living can truly be. Or how accurate our experiences. It’s nearly impossible not to get attached (and even make excuses for) to a restaurant or a chef you’ve had especially fond experiences with. And dismiss someone who burns you even once. That’s the painful truth.

Which isn’t to say that Bauer doesn’t get it right a lot of the time. It’s a fascinating read to see who got bumped in 2008. Odyssey in Windsor got the boot (though it seemed to be a close call, and I’ve too heard of some inconsistency), as did Dry Creek Kitchen (which got a scathing diss). It’s also rather shocking, considering the fact that they probably knew (or should have known) that Bauer was in the hosue.

It’s a tough call, I can attest, to try and narrow to a brief list the best of the Bay Area. I’d struggle to come up with 100 Best Restaurants just in Wine Country. How do you compare the best spot for burritos and chiles rellenos with a three-star foie gras and microgreens spot? Maybe its worth a try…

So tell me. Who would you nominate for a Wine Country’s Top 100 Restaurants list?

Invasion of the Phillies?


It’s a bit depressing driving around Santa Rosa these days, with every other storefront seemingly FOR LEASE. I hear endless frustration from folks in the food biz about ridiculous rents and increasing food costs. I’m get bummed seeing folks like Mark Malicki move out of town while yet another Panda Express or Taco Bell open for business. I see hopeful local restaurateurs decide to wait it out rather than dive in. And, worst of all, I’m finding myself cautiously pessimistic when eager folks do decide to take the plunge.

Sadly, we’re all the hungrier for it.

It is, I suppose a sign of the times. The cost of living is just too high for many young chefs to take a chance in Wine Country. It’s too high for most of us, really. Even as a devout foodie, a casual $40 dinner gives me a much more serious pause than it used to. And a $150 dinner gives me serious hives. I’m even reconsidering my morning bagel. Are we in for worse? Let’s hope not.

But, okay, enough with the glass-is-half-empty laments.

Despite my kvetching, there are a few glimmers of hope on the horizon. Philadephia-chefs Matt and Sonjia Spector are busy remodeling the former Stomp spot (1457 Lincoln Ave.), with an expected opening date in June for their small-plates spot, named JoLe. The couple are the former owners of Matyson, a popular American bistro in the City of Brotherly Love. Though the spot has struggled, despite a string of solid chefs throughout the last few years as Mount View Restaurant, Catahoula and Stomp.

Another Philly addition is also in the works in Santa Rosa. On the value side of the coin, The Cheesesteak Shop is setting up camp in the Stony Point Plaza at 740 Stony Point Road near Taco Del Mar. Hold on to your grilled onions! More details to come.

Tres Leches Cake

In a fit of mommy-guilt, I once spent twelve hours constructing an edible tableaux of the pyramids at Giza for my son’s fifth birthday–layer upon layer of homemade yellow cake and chocolate butter cream. It was a masterpiece, complete with brown sugar sand, plastic palm trees and camels. Even better, it tasted divine.
He, of course, hated it. Let’s be honest, we both knew he would have been much happier digging into a store-bought cake with fluorescent green frosting an a plastic Mutant Turtle on top.
Such is the fate of parenthood. Homemade cakes give way to semi-homemade cakes, which give way to store-bought monstrosities so laden with shortening and sugar that the actual cake seems an afterthought. Maybe it’s just hiding in shame.

If you go: Pasteles Fiesta offers a variety of authentic Mexican cakes, along with tasty individual-sized flans. A small tres leches cake will set you back about $20; the mini flans are just $2. 443 Dutton Ave, #1, Dutton Plaza, Santa Rosa, 707.568.7051.
If you want to make Tres Leches cake yourself (you ambitious cook, you) can check out the recipe that got me all inspired in the first place, courtesy of Alton Brown and the Food Network.

But there is salvation to be found, and it’s name is tres leches. Well-known to the fiesta-set, this creamy, dreamy, milk-laden cake is a homemade(ish) antidote to industrialized desserts.
The recipe goes like this–a pan of sponge cake gets jabbed and poked within an inch of its life, then doused with a mixture of evaporated and condensed milk, along with heavy cream (three milks=tres leches). Let soak, then cloak the whole thing in a n inch of whipped cream. Purists prefer their cake unadorned, though I think adding a layer of fruit makes for a better party.
The cakes ends up a bit like a thoroughly soused rum cake, minus the rum: Sweet, spongy and insanely moist–sometimes almost wet. The whipped cream frosting is rich, but goes down a lot better than heavy buttercream or (shudder) shortening-based frosting. !Ole!
No one’s quite sure where this confectionery marvel got its start, although popular belief places its origins in Central America. More specifically, it’s thought to have come from a recipe on the side of a sweetened or condensed milk can somewhere in Nicaragua–not such a wild theory due in part to the prevalence of canned milk in hot climates (where the fresh stuff doesn’t last long).
The recipe remains popular in Latin American countries and, like flan and dulce de leche, has kindly infiltrated US food culture. You’ll find it everywhere from local Mexican bakeries to the dessert menus of upscale restaurants (Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen in St. Helena frequently has it on the menu.)
Don’t expect to walk up and get a slice, however. Cakes usually need to be ordered in advance from local Mexican bakeries (as BiteClub found out the hard way), but high-traffic spots like Lola’s Market and (BiteClub’s fave) Pasteles Fiesta usually have a selection on hand for walk-ins. Pasteles also has slices available with or without fruit for dabblers and lunch-breakers.
And yes, you can even get them decorated with green frosting, pink flowers and nifty toys. Making everyone happy.
Where is your favorite tres leches?