Page 674 – Sonoma Magazine

Rumors and news

May 2008

By biteclub

Lots of rumors and news from the foodie front this week.

Seaweed Cafe sold
This week was the last hurrah for fans of the Seaweed Cafe’s Chef Jackie. This surprising little outpost of haute organic cuisine in Bodega Bay has been a favorite insider haunt for foodies. Ailing parents, however, forced the sale of the restaurant and Jackie and partner Melinda will be officially moving on as of May 30. Word is that new owners have been found and the restaurant will be up and running again shortly.

Bistro V revived?
There’s lots of mystery swirling around the former Bistro V in Sebastopol. BiteClub has heard through the grapevine that there may be some chef interest in reviving the space, though details have been hard to come by. I recently drove by to see what was up, and there is some construction and renovation happening, but no solid leads. A new restaurant in the works?

Elsewhere in Sebastopol, the Dolce V chocolateria has closed, but BiteClub has heard that Veronica may continue her passion for chocolate online. Let’s hope so. Also, is there something to look forward to at the old Pine Cone Restaurant? Hmmm.

Bear Republic: We’re not for sale
I got a recent tip that Healdsburg’s Bear Republic brewery and pub might be changing hands. The corporate office says no dice and that the restaurant isn’t currently for sale.

Green on the Green
Lots of new things happening on Windsor’s Town Green after some recent stagnation. I’m hearing great things about David’s Hot Dogs (716 McClelland Drive, Windsor) and the Green Grocer, a gourmet food market is slated to open in July.

Finally, from Kristin comes this little tidbit for Thai cooking fans. “I found this great little Thai market last week in SR that just opened! Not sure if you cook Thai at home, but they have a great selection and the store is cute and well organized. The nice guy working there said that soon they will have Thai cooking classes and Thai food togo from their shiny looking open kitchen. I live in Sonoma and will make it a point to drop in while doing other shopping in SR. And no, I don’t work there or own it…just always hoping nice little places like this succeed! So, check it out! Aroon Thai Market, 2770 Cleveland Ave (Just north of TJ Maxx) Santa Rosa, 576-0256″ Thanks Kristin!

Got a tip on a new restaurant or a favorite spot? Email me!

Hang Ah Dim Sum | Santa Rosa

May 2008

By biteclub

Hang Ah Dim Sum in Santa Rosa features authentic Chinese dim sum

At Hang Ah Dim Sum in Santa Rosa, chicken feet and duck tongue have finally gone mainstream.
This, believe it or not, is a good thing. Because tag-teamed with these well-loved Chinese specialties are a whole mess of more easily translated dim sum dishes from San Francisco’s historic Hang Ah restaurant.
Think Shanghai dumplings, Shiu Mai, leaf-wrapped rice, potstickers and pork buns.

The small dining room (an A&W restaurant in its former life) buzzes throughout the day with a cross-section of folks — from hungry construction workers to families.
If you’ve already got your dim sum badge, skip over this next part. If you’re new to these little purses of steamed deliciousness, here’s the 411: Dim sum is all about ordering lots of little plates, drinking tea and sharing what shows up around the table. There are several different types of dim sum (which roughly translated means something about “your heart’s delight”) most of which are bits of ground meat wrapped in rice or flour skins and steamed. But that’s just the half of it.
The best part of dim sum is simply ordering the oddly named items (curry beef dumpling, bean curd skin roll) and seeing what shows up. Sometimes you win. Sometimes you spit it in a napkin and move on. Consider this your personal voyage into the unknown.
The dim sum menu is broken into three main parts, based on price. Small dishes (Shiu Mai, chicken claws, pork ribs, steamed pork buns and curry beef) are $2.50 per plate. Medium plates (taro dumplings, bean curd skin rolls, sweet deserts like baked custard, etc.) are $3.50 per plate and large plates (shrimp dumplings, shrimp stuffed eggplant , Shanghai dumplings and crispy shrimp balls) are $4.50 per plate. Chef’s picks (shark-fin dumplings, roast duck, duck tongue and BBQ pork) are a hefty $6.50 each. Most folks can down at least 2 to 3 plates per person, so it can add up pretty quickly.
The restaurant also features a full menu of more traditional Chinese fare (General Tsou chicken, sweet and sour, Kung Po, Mu Shu) if you’re not ready to full invest in dim sum, including a $6.50 lunch menu. But come on, live a little.
Best bets for dim sum virgins are the steamed pork buns (gooey, white dough balls filled with BBQ
pork), shrimp balls (once you stop snickering, they’re pretty good little fried nuggets of ground shrimp), steamed Shanghai dumplings (lots of ginger or pork) and the Shiu Mai (ground pork). If you’re a bit more adventurous, head for the bean curd skin roll, curried beef dumplings (listed as “carry”) or taro dumplings. Chicken claws are best left to the pros, though once you’ve had them, you’ll swear by ’em. Unless you don’t.
Stacked up against higher end dim sum spots in the city, Hang Ah hovers in the solid, but not truly exceptional category. Flavors can get a little muddled, wrappers a little thick and sticky. Which isn’t to say it’s not good eats. One shining spot is that (unlike their San Francisco location) Hang Ah north isn’t a large-scale tourist operation, but more of a family-style restaurant. Service is fast and efficient. Dishes are a bit more personal.
At the end of the meal, my fortune read: “An unexpected event will soon make your life more exciting.” Turns out, a little dim sum spot around the corner from my house fits the bill just about perfectly.
Hang Ah Dim Sum, 2130 Armory Drive, Santa Rosa, 576.7873.
Oh, and about the Drive Through Dim Sum sign? Yeah. No.

West County Grill update

May 2008

By biteclub

"Jonathan threw us to the wolves," says Darren McRonald, who is currently doing double duty as acting GM and head chef. "We learned some hard lessons," he told BiteClub by phone. Although Waxman's departure from the restaurant is still unofficial according to McRonald, he is no longer involved in the operations of the restaurant. "Jonathan's in New York. He's away too much," he said.

RESTAURANT NOW CLOSED

Several BiteClubbers have recently asked me, “What’s up with West County Grill?”
Because after tons of fanfare and hype when it opened a little more
than a year ago, things have seemed to go steadily downhill. Lots of
criticism. Lots of unhappy locals. And a disappearing act by the star
of the show, celeb chef and co-owner Jonathan Waxman soon after its
debut.

“Jonathan threw us to the wolves,” says Darren
McRonald, who is currently doing double duty as acting GM and head
chef. “We learned some hard lessons,” he told BiteClub by phone.
Although Waxman’s departure from the restaurant is still unofficial
according to McRonald, he is no longer involved in the operations of
the restaurant. “Jonathan’s in New York. He’s away too much,” he said.

Which has been a blow to the Sebastopol spot locals hoped would be the next coming of Chez Panisse. Both Waxman and wine guru Stephen Singer (who
remains at the restaurant) were celebrated Panisse alums who hoped to
receive a warm welcome in Wine Country. That’s yet to be seen.

With a revolving door of general managers front-of-the-house staff (Manzanita’s Mike Hale
left, along with two other GM’s), the restaurant is hoping to repair
some of the ill-will it garnered during its rocky first year.

Cinnamon Marquardt,
formerly of K&L Bistro, has been hired to improve the restaurant’ s
uneven service and McRonald’s looking toward food quality. “The
kitchen’s spent enough time together to operate effectively.”

The large restaurant continues look for ways to innovate, including re-opening for lunch and dinner continuously, 7 days a week. They’re serving fried chicken on Sundays and ethnic dinners on Wednesday.

The
question remains, however, whether they can regain the goodwill of
locals who were promised a spot where Wine Country could come “hang
out”.

What’s your experience been? Are you willing to give West County Grill another chance? See the original review from BiteClub.

Scopa | Healdsburg

May 2008

By biteclub

The name of Ari Rosen’s casual Italian eatery, Scopa, refers to an ancient Italian card game that, like poker, requires plenty of bluffing, banter, booze and snacks to be properly played. Deal me in.
Inside Scopa, the vibe is extremely casual, with smiling, t-shirted waitrons, stemware only by request (in Healdsburg? shocking!), a reasonably-priced wine lists that hovers mostly in the 30-40 range and relaxed dishes that beg for bread-sopping and cross-table sharing. Shoebox-sized, there are only a handful of tables, smushed together bistro-style along the right wall; several tall bar tables for two are along the left.
Start with Larry Pacini’s house-made Ciabatta ($2), which you’ll gladly use in place of a fork, napkin or spoon throughout the meal. This is serious soaking bread. The Tonno Del Chianti ($8) (is cold, shredded pork that’s been preserved in oil, “tuna style”. Served up with a tangy balsamic fig jam and greens, it’s a refreshing appetizer for two. The real thriller, however, is the burrata ($9) that nearly brought me to tears. Some of you may know of my absolutely ridiculous passion for mozzarella. I’ve spent years tracking the perfect ball. I’ve still never found it. This burrata, made by a couple in San Diego, is an insane little orb of tender mozzarella with a soft, creamy middle that would make an Oreo blush in shame and about as close (to perfection as I’ve found stateside.
Also on the Antipasti menu are chile-braised tripe ($7.50), grilled fontina cheese and spicy meatballs with smoked mozzarella.The one major stinker of the night was finding out the house-made gnocchi with Napolitano meat ragu ($16) was sold out. The Orecchiette ((literally “little ears”, $16) was a pale consolation, studded with (turnip greens, chili flakes and ricotta. Not that it was bad. It just wasn’t as good as the rest of the meal. I still licked the bowl clean (while thinking about how much I wished
I had a plate of fresh ravioli (stuffed with ricotta, nettles and covered in brown butter sage sauce (($16). The stuffed calamari ($16) are four(ish) torpedos of squid stuffed with caper berries and olives and grilled with Yukon Gold potatoes.The entrees are small, so there’s no shame in ordering a couple if you’re really hungry. Among the choices: pizza topped with green garlic, sausage and cheese ($15), tomato-braised chicken with polenta ($17) and grilled rack of lamb with fava beens, spring leeks and backed ricotta ($22). Desserts thus far are simple affairs, the best being a board of cheese, pear and (honey to go with your French press coffee. And, despite the beckoning of summer, outdoor seating at Scopa is so-far just a single table squeezed against the building. With so little space inside, you’ll feel a little squeezed regardless.
The sheer press of humanity, clinking glasses and wafts of garlic and olive oil can make for a heady experience. Embrace it. And feel yourself embraced back by the warmth, honest cooking and impromptu camaraderie of Scopa. It’s in the cards.
Scopa: 109A Plaza St, (Healdsburg, 707.433.5282. Reservations recommended. Open for dinner (Tuesday through Sunday from 5:30 to 10 pm.

Pimp my fries

May 2008

By biteclub

Three words: Truffle oil fries.

Just a couple weeks into its new ownership, The Healdsburg Bar and Grill is noticeably changed under the watch of Cyrus’ Nick Peyton and chef Douglas Keane. Though the look and feel is still very much the same as the old HBG–casual inside tables, t-shirted waitrons and kids running around the bocce ball court outside–the menu has been elevated to haute burger status.

Starts include a very grown up mac ‘n cheese with Fiscalini, Parmigianno-Reggiano and Hobb’s bacon, lobster bisque and the sweet-tangy Alexander Valley gourmet pickles. Three types of cracker-thin pizzas are handmade to order, from a simple margherita to the tony goat cheese, arugula, caramelized onion and portobello-topped.

What you’re really there for, of course, are the HBG burgers, which are some of the best BiteClub’s had in, well, at least a few weeks. With the Cyrus crew in charge, there’s a pedigree to every ingredient (quel surprise). All that matters to your tastebuds is that they’re juicy, tasty and nicely pink on the middle without being raw or greasy. And at $7.75 (that’s before you add all the fancy pants toppers like Rogue Creamery blue cheese), about the cheapest thing on the menu. As long as you’re indulging, though, the truffle oil fries make the meal, dipped in a side of creamy horseradish and roasted garlic mayo.

Save a little room for the Brownie Surprise, bite-sized chunks of rich chocolate brownies swimming in a fudgy pudding. What’s the surprise? It comes with jazz hands, according to our server. Your results may vary.

Sticker shock can be a bit steep, considering the $10 mac ‘n cheese, $12 pizza and a $15.50 seared tuna sandwich (though worth every bit of the pricetag). This is Cyrus-quality fare, after all. The prices don’t seem to be scaring off crowds who are already waiting upwards of 30 minutes for a table.

Fortunately, they’ve brought over a few Cyrus-inspired cocktails (the Wonka Drop and Mango Mai Tai) as well as a impressive wine list to keep folks relaxed and happy. And hungry for those truffle oil fries.

Healdsburg Bar and Grill, 245 Healdsburg Ave, (707) 433-3333.

Healdsburg Bar and Grill | Healdsburg

May 2008

By biteclub

The Healdsburg Bar and Grill is noticeably changed under the watch of Cyrus’ Nick Peyton and chef Douglas Keane.
Though the look and feel is still very much the same as the old HBG–casual inside tables, t-shirted waitrons and kids running around the bocce ball court outside–the menu has been elevated to haute burger status.
Starts include a very grown up mac ‘n cheese with Fiscalini, Parmigianno-Reggiano and Hobb’s bacon, lobster bisque and the sweet-tangy Alexander Valley gourmet pickles. Three types of cracker-thin pizzas are handmade to order, from a simple margherita to the tony goat cheese, arugula, caramelized onion and portobello-topped.
What you’re really there for, of course, are the HBG burgers, which are some of the best BiteClub’s had in, well, at least a few weeks. With the Cyrus crew in charge, there’s a pedigree to every ingredient (quel surprise). All that matters to your tastebuds is that they’re juicy, tasty and nicely pink on the middle without being raw or greasy. And at $7.75 (that’s before you add all the fancy pants toppers like Rogue Creamery blue cheese), about the cheapest thing on the menu. As long as you’re indulging, though, the truffle oil fries make the meal, dipped in a side of creamy horseradish and roasted garlic mayo.
Save a little room for the Brownie Surprise, bite-sized chunks of rich chocolate brownies swimming in a fudgy pudding. What’s the surprise? It comes with jazz hands, according to our server. Your results may vary.
Sticker shock can be a bit steep, considering the $10 mac ‘n cheese, $12 pizza and a $15.50 seared tuna sandwich (though worth every bit of the pricetag). This is Cyrus-quality fare, after all. The prices don’t seem to be scaring off crowds who are already
waiting upwards of 30 minutes for a table.
Fortunately, they’ve brought over a few Cyrus-inspired cocktails (the Wonka Drop and Mango Mai Tai) as well as a impressive wine list to keep folks relaxed and happy. And hungry for those truffle oil fries.
Healdsburg Bar and Grill, 245 Healdsburg Ave, (707) 433-3333.

Mother’s Day

May 2008

By biteclub

I recently heard someone say that if you needed a holiday to honor your mom, you might need to rethink your relationship. Which is probably true, but it’s always nice to have a fire lit under one’s sorry behind to get that maternal thanksgiving crackling.

And what better way to say, “You’re the best, Mom” than treating her to a sit-down meal on Sunday (that’s Mother’s Day, if you haven’t gotten my drift yet). But not just any old brunch. We’re talking seriously good eats that let her know just how much you care.

BiteClub’s top bet is a patio-side seat at the new Cafe Saint Rose. We got a first look at Mark Malicki’s new digs on Tuesday, and any concern over his departure from downtown Santa Rosa can be filed under No Worries. The roadside spot sits on 1.5 acres with a babbling creek, two large outdoor patio decks and more charm than should be legal in Wine Country.

Sunday’s ‘Samba Your Mama’ menu includes Suckling Pig Hash, sweet potatoes with poached eggs; short ribs, biscuits and gravy, smoked chicken, asparagus and morels and sheep’s milk ricotta blintzes. Plus, a few surprises. You’re so gonna be the favorite child.

Mark’s left a couple of Big Wheels on the patio for the tots to roll around–or well, the young at heart. He’s planning to have some music to serenade mom by as well as plenty of wine and beer selections should the conversation start getting sticky. The restaurant opens for brunch at 9am and Mark’s set aside some room for walk-ins. If you miss out on Sunday’s festivities, Cafe Saint Rose is now open Wednesday through Sunday for dinner, starting at 5pm, and every Saturday and Sunday for brunch. Note the new location: 9890 Bodega Hwy (a few miles west of downtown Sebastopol), 829.5898.

Also this weekend for mama:

Sonoma: The General’s Daughter will be serving cream of corn soup with lump crab and sweet sherry; shrimp and grits with andouille and Tabasco butter; French toast with smoked salmon and poached egg; lamb rib eye with lentils and pancetta; wild mushroom crepes; and Valrhona chocolate caramel tart. Three courses $49, wine pairings $25. 400 W. Spain St., Sonoma. 707.938.4004.

Santa Rosa: Zazu Restaurant features lavender waffles with lemon curd, breakfast pizza and their own Black Pig bacon from 9am to 2pm on Sunday. Kids under 12 are half price. 3535 Guerneville Road, 523.4814

Spicy Moms might like the international flavor of the champagne brunch at Sizzling Tandoor (409 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 579.5999) or Las Guitarras Mexican Restaurant (unlimited champagne and flowers from 10am, 7384 Commerce Blvd,, Santa Rosa. 792.4380).

Geyserville: Santi Restaurant hosts an a la carte Italian Mom’s Day feast from 10:30am to 2pm. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville.

Napa: Julia’s Kitchen has a prix fixe feast at COPIA from 11am to 3pm (265.5700). Plus, you can check out the new Oxbow Market (which has finally gotten some critical mass) and snag an edible gift or two.

Petaluma: La Dolce Vita Wine Bar features a
special brunch menu with champagne flights, and a free glass of bubbly for mom from 12pm to 3pm.

Where will you be on Mother’s Day? Add your favorite spots to raise a toast (and a fork) to mom.

Plaza Farms closing

May 2008

By biteclub

After several years of trying to make a go of it, Healdsburg’s Plaza Farms is throwing in the towel. The market, which opened in 2005, has struggled to gain a foothold with tourists and locals since its inception despite the popularity of many of its vendors, including Bovolo Restaurant and DaVero Olive Oils and former occupants Scharffen Berger Chocolates, Otea and Bellwether Farms. It’s too bad.

BiteClub ran into John Stewart, co-owner of Zazu and Bovolo on Sunday at his restaurant after seeing a small sign in the back of the market announcing the closure of Plaza Farms. The good news is that Bovolo will remain in its current spot as Copperfield’s Bookstore expands into the market space (they’re currently next door, and will be knocking down the adjoining wall). Mmmm. Gelato and Ginsberg. Pork and Poe.

Stewart says that he’s looking forward to the new opportunities with Copperfield’s, including, he hopes, doing more food/book related events. The expansion is anticpated to be completed over the summer. Stay tuned.

Plaza Farms/Bovolo: 106 Matheson St., Healdsburg

Hey cupcake

May 2008

By biteclub

Cupcakes are the happiest food on earth. I dare you to defy me on that. Wrapped in crinkly paper collars and capped with a pastel poof of buttercream, they’re unabashedly adorable. They come in dozens. And no one can pull off sprinkles and candy glitter with the same panache.

But when it comes to taste, well, that’s where things sometimes go horribly wrong. Dry, crumbly cake. Greasy, fake frosting that leaves behind a room full of purple fingerprints and blue teeth. Exactly the sort of thing that keeps cupcake baker Andrea Ballus awake at night. Or rather up at 4am each morning.

As owner of Sift, the Sonoma County’s first official cupcakery, Ballus is dedicated to the art of killer cupcakes. With a baker’s dozen (or so) flavors fresh made each day, she and her staff (of one) are barely keeping up with demand. Not exactly surprising when at least half the menu reads like a high-end cocktail list–Pink Champagne, Miami Vice, Limonata, the Irish Car Bomb and the Ooh La La. Cute, but just a little dangerous.

Using non-traditional ingredients like Guiness Stout, champagne, green tea and key lime pie filling, Ballus is elevating the cupcake to more than a mere snack. It’s a little bit of pastry heaven.

The long-time Bay Area resident recently returned from a stint in Las Vegas, where cupcake shops have become all the rage with sweet-teethed grown-ups. Inspired by the baking bug, she opened her Cotati shop in mid-April. She shop has been reduced to crumbs nearly every day since.

Cupcakes run $2.75 a piece, which may sound a bit shocking at first. But consider the cost of morning croissant. Or a Starbuck’s latte. Cupcakes are way better and they won’t make you nearly as jittery. Unless of course, you eat twelve–which is exactly what BiteClub did (with a few friends) after grabbing a dirty dozen from Sift ($30).

With a hearty shout of “Cupcake Tasting!”, we decimated a box in just under 15 minutes. Results as follows:

Handsdown Winner
Key Lime Bliss: Vanilla cake with key lime pie filling and key lime frosting

Car Casualty (meaning it never even made it back to the office, it was so dang good)
Miami Vice: Pina Colada cake with fresh strawberry frosting.

Most Surprising
The 50/50: Orange cake with cream cheese frosting (think Creamsicle)

Most fascinating to the guys
Ooh La La: Red velvet cake with cream cheese frosting. I won’t even try to figure that one out.

Most radically delish
Irish Car Bomb: Chocolate Guiness cake with Irish cream frosting.

Best for Last
With its unassuming white frosting, this little sneaker got left for last. But oh, how good it was.
Pink Champagne: Fresh raspberry cake with champagne frosting.

And the rest
Pinking of You: Vanilla cake with pink buttercream frosting
Bugsy: Carrot cake with cream cheese frosting
Limonata: Lemon cake with strawberry frosting
Showball: Coconut cake with cream cheese frosting
Chocolatease: Vanilla cake with chocolate frosting
Over the Moon: Chocolate cake with pink buttercream frosting

Sift Cupcakery: 7582 Commerce Blvd., Cotati, 792.1681. Open Tuesday through Friday from 7am to 6pm, Saturday 10am toi 5pm and Sunday noon to 5pm. Closed Monday.

Sift Cupcakery

May 2008

By biteclub

Cupcakes are the happiest food on earth.
I dare you to defy me on that. Wrapped in crinkly paper collars and
capped with a pastel poof of buttercream, they’re unabashedly adorable.
They come in dozens. And no one can pull off sprinkles and candy
glitter with the same panache.

But when it comes to taste, well,
that’s where things sometimes go horribly wrong. Dry, crumbly cake.
Greasy, fake frosting that leaves behind a room full of purple
fingerprints and blue teeth. Exactly the sort of thing that keeps
cupcake baker Andrea Ballus awake at night. Or rather up at 4am each
morning.

As owner of Sift, the Sonoma County’s first official cupcakery,
Ballus is dedicated to the art of killer cupcakes. With a baker’s dozen
(or so) flavors fresh made each day, she and her staff (of one) are
barely keeping up with demand. Not exactly surprising when at least
half the menu reads like a high-end cocktail list–Pink Champagne, Miami Vice, Limonata, the Irish Car Bomb and the Ooh La La. Cute, but just a little dangerous.

Using
non-traditional ingredients like Guiness Stout, champagne, green tea
and key lime pie filling, Ballus is elevating the cupcake to more than
a mere snack. It’s a little bit of pastry heaven.

The
long-time Bay Area resident recently returned from a stint in Las
Vegas, where cupcake shops have become all the rage with sweet-teethed
grown-ups. Inspired by the baking bug, she opened her Cotati shop in
mid-April. She shop has been reduced to crumbs nearly every day since.

Cupcakes
run $2.75 a piece, which may sound a bit shocking at first. But
consider the cost of morning croissant. Or a Starbuck’s latte. Cupcakes
are way better and they won’t make you nearly as jittery. Unless of
course, you eat twelve–which is exactly what BiteClub did (with a few
friends) after grabbing a dirty dozen from Sift ($30).

With a hearty shout of “Cupcake Tasting!”, we decimated a box in just under 15 minutes. Results as follows:

Handsdown Winner
Key Lime Bliss: Vanilla cake with key lime pie filling and key lime frosting

Car Casualty (meaning it never even made it back to the office, it was so dang good)
Miami Vice: Pina Colada cake with fresh strawberry frosting.

Most Surprising
The 50/50: Orange cake with cream cheese frosting (think Creamsicle)

Best for Last
With its unassuming white frosting, this little sneaker got left for last. But oh, how good it was.
Pink Champagne: Fresh raspberry cake with champagne frosting.

Sift
Cupcakery: 7582 Commerce Blvd., Cotati, 792.1681. Open Tuesday through
Friday from 7am to 6pm, Saturday 10am toi 5pm and Sunday noon to 5pm.
Closed Monday.