Underwood is the beating heart of the west county social and culinary scene. The entrees are expensive, but tapas and small plates are available. Or hop across Graton Road to proprietor Matthew Greenbaum’s other restaurant, Willow Wood Market Café, where prices are moderate. You’ll be pleased at the quality of the food at Underwood, however. Chef Mark Miller piles miles of flavor on high-quality ingredients. The wine list is eclectic, the bar offers specialty cocktails, and there’s much fun to be had.