Chef Sean O’Toole cooks classic American and Californian dishes with refinement and elegance. His ingredients are impeccably good, and he uses them in a way that’s both thought-provoking and enjoyable. His impossibly tender slices of spring lamb, for instance, sit on a bed of shredded lamb shoulder mixed with bits of fresh mint. They come with small balls of fried dough filled with garlicky cream. The wine list is eclectic and ranges far beyond Napa Valley.