This red-hot restaurant has a strong influence of southern Italy and food that’s surpassingly delicious. Nonna’s tomato-braised chicken with polenta keeps fans coming back. Chef Ari Rosen’s sugo Calabrese is a perfect plate of meat-sauced thin spaghetti. But this is not Italian-American cooking — it’s full-boat Italian. A fine list of Italian wines lets you pair this food with something from the Old Country.