It takes a brave chef to jump into the barbecue scrum that has left the region awash in burnt ends and secret sauce. But the mother-son team who took over the restaurant caboose at Gravenstein Station seem to know a thing or two about smoky brisket and pulled pork. Maybe that’s because co-owner Jake Owen has been at a grill since he was practically in diapers. The mixed barbecue platter is a good bet; try the pulled pork, brisket, cole slaw, beans and Junction Fries. Or just get the fries, covered with a mound of pulled pork, onion jam and barbecue sauce. This being Sebastopol, there are several options for vegetarians, including country-fried tofu and a portobello mushroom sandwich.