It’s impossible to pigeonhole this enormous region that spans 480,000 acres, primarily along the magnificent Pacific Ocean coastline stretching from San Pablo Bay to the Mendocino County border.
Winemakers love the vineyards here because the region is delightfully cool, thanks to ocean breezes and summer fog, but most make and sell their wines in less remote areas of the county. There are a few actual wineries dotted throughout the rugged coastline region. They require a bit of a drive, but that’s part of the charm of this out-of-the-ordinary Wine Country escape, ideal for those who enjoy the journey as much as they do the destination.
Taste
Peay Vineyards
If you don’t mind a drive, reserve a private tasting at the Estate in Annapolis, about an hour west of Healdsburg. The one-of-a-kind adventure includes a tour of magical vineyards that carpet rolling hills above a river gorge, forays into redwood forests, and the deliciously salty scent of the sea just a hop-skip west. Winegrower Nick Peay is on hand to guide the tour, which is followed by a tasting of five current releases accompanied by a local cheese and salumi plate ($100). Peay is very much family owned, crafting an array of exceptional Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays, and Syrahs in a range of styles.
Note: Upon booking, guests are asked to join the Friends of Peay list, but this is not a wine club. It’s a way for them to let guests know about allocated small-production wines, sometimes 100 cases or less. Want to skip the long drive? Visit the Cloverdale tasting room instead that leads you into a subterranean barrel hall, with tours of the expansive winemaking facility. 227 Treadway Drive, Cloverdale. 707-894-8720, peayvineyards.com. For Annapolis details, contact nick@peayvineyards.com.
Black Kite Cellars
This rural Freestone property’s Jasper House tasting room looks as though it was pulled from the pages of Architectural Digest. Relax on couches in one of three private sipping salons amid art gallery-worthy collections, stroll casual gardens, then make your way across the lane to the vineyards overlooking the endless countryside. There’s even a charming little flower stand to browse along the way. Owners Tom and Rebecca Birdsall focus on classic Burgundian-style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and are excellent story tellers about their inspirations. Be sure to ask about the meaning behind the wine label art. 12747 El Camino Bodega, Freestone. 707-322-4863, blackkitecellars.com
Freeman Winery
Winemaker Akiko Freeman and her winery manager husband Ken work together at their storybook property that is technically in the Russian River Valley AVA, but they also farm their lauded 14-acre Yu-ki Estate vineyards that’s part of the Sonoma Coast AVA, just 4 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Do the Redwood Grove tasting with a BYO picnic. 1300 Montgomery Road, Sebastopol. 707-823-6937, freemanwinery.com
Enriquez Estate Wines
This under-the-radar spot founded by Eduardo and Ana Enriquez and run by daughter Cecilia is a micro-winery, producing around 1,000 cases a year. There’s no real tasting room, but guests are invited for rustic gatherings in the vineyard or barn, where bottles are popped and stories are shared. Try the uncommon dark fruit Rioja-style Sonoma Coast Tempranillo Reserva. 5960 Eastside Road, Forestville. 707-347-9719, enriquezwines.com
Fort Ross Vineyard
This gem tucked in the forest just 1 mile from the Pacific Ocean is the only tasting room in the acclaimed Fort Ross-Seaview viticultural area. Set on a steep mountain ridge above the fog line, it’s known for uncommon treasures like South African-style Chenin Blanc and Pinotage, plus a variety of luscious Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. After a long drive to the remote estate, invest the time in the Trails & Tastings experience, featuring a guided hike through the redwoods, vineyards, and gardens, followed by an exceptional wine-paired meal from the in-house chef. 15725 Meyers Grade Road, Jenner. 707-847-3460, fortrossvineyard.com
Dine
Jilly’s Real Food Roadhouse
Head north past Bodega Bay on CA-1, turn left at the Willow Creek Road bridge, and you’ll find a funky diner brimming with good food and good feelings. Owner Jill Lippitt ushers you in with from-scratch comfort food and wildly beautiful views of the Russian River. Dig into marvels such as a ginormous double smashburger with tallow fries, or buttermilk-fried chicken atop crunchy slaw. 9960 Hwy. 1 Jenner. 707-756-0119
River’s End Restaurant & Inn
What a delicious combination: breathtaking views and mouthwatering Cal-cuisine at this locals’ favorite perched on a bluff overlooking the mouth of the Russian River. Dive into eclectic bites ranging from black cod-shrimp ceviche to duck confit egg rolls, and applewood-smoked filet mignon slathered in Pt. Reyes blue cheese walnut butter. 11048 Highway 1, Jenner. 707-865-2484, ilovesunsets.com
The Lodge at Dawn Ranch
Grab a wine-paired picnic and settle on the lawn above the picturesque Russian River. Chefs Juliana Thorpe and Ignacio Zuzulich offer classic California fare for these alfresco feasts, but be bold, and ask them to assemble a basket celebrating their Dawn Ranch restaurant’s Brazilian, Argentinian, and European heritage. 16467 Hwy. 116, Guerneville. 707-869-0656, dawnranch.com
Explore
Cazadero: Take the narrow, winding road up the mountain to check out this town that feels like a return to the old days. On Friday nights, between May and October, stop in Raymond’s Bakery for superb breads and pastries plus wood fired pizza and live music amid the redwoods. Or browse the 1899 “Caz” General Store for homemade barbecue sauce, delectable deli sammies, gourmet burgers, fresh seafood, and lots of local collectible souvenirs. Raymond’s Bakery, 5400 Cazadero Hwy. Cazadero. 707-632-5335, cazbakery.com; and Cazedero General Store, 6125 Cazadero Hwy., Cazadero. 707-632-5287. On Facebook – Cazadero General Store
Insider Tip
Hit up Give Back Tuesdays at Rainbow Cattle Company
This LGBTQ+-friendly bar hosts a community dinner and auction with proceeds going to a different local charity each week. Since starting the Tuesday tradition, they’ve raised $1 million. 16220 Main St., Guerneville. 707-869-0206, queersteer.com