Barbecue at Mamma Pig in Windsor
CLOSED

Follow the scent of sweet porky smoke to the transformed digs of Matthew and Bryan Bousquet. The former owners haute French eatery Mirepoix traded in their Michelin star for a counter-service barbecue joint that had a line out the door opening week. The couple both have roots in the south and know their way around a brisket, sweet tea, hush puppies (or hush piggies as they call them) and molasses pit beans and bacon. For dessert, check out the brown sugar pound cake or chocolate pig on a stick. There are still plenty of Wine Country twists (like a burger with duck liver, and a sweet Sonoma Zinfandel barbecue sauce), but Mamma Pig’s is strictly a beer, bacon, and burger kind of spot where all the kin are welcome.

Best bets: Thinly-sliced brsket is a must-have ($8.75 for a sandwich with slaw and Hush Piggies). Fried bits of corny goodness, Mamma’s got the lock on their version of the hush puppy, called the Hush Piggie. Order a side for yourself ($5.00), because what you don’t eat reheats just fine in the oven later. Pig on a Stick (pork belly) is for serious porcine admirers, but worth sharing (%.75). There’s a pie of the day made fresh each day, along with special kid-sized meals.

Outdoor picnic tables are a premium, though there are a handful of tables inside. Beer from Moonlight Brewing Co. on tap.

Mamma Pig, 275 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 838-7447.